Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

[PeTTs0n]

I just bought a bundle with a Abit BX133-RAID, a 866MHz P3 (SL4CB) and a 256MB PC133 SDRAM stick, that the seller claims were working fine together.
After building a rig out of it, with a known working PSU (Seasonic S12II 520W, for its good 3.3V and 5V rails), I get a good startup screen, but as soon as I try to enter the BIOS, it locks up with a blue bar across the bottom of the screen.

I have seen one thread from 2010 about this issue specifically on Vogons, and the consensus there was that bad caps may very well have something to do with it, and although I can't see any visual damage or bulging (maybe ever so slight on two of the 25+ caps), Jackcon from around the year 2000 isn't exactly promising. Every cap on the board is from them, their "B058 Low E.S.R." series, apparently

From what I can tell, the board has, more specifically:

11x 6.3V 1500uF 8x17mm* - Just above the CPU socket
4x 6.3V 1000uF 8x15mm* - Between the CPU and the AGP port
7x 10V 1000uF 8x15mm* - Surrounding the CPU socket and chipset, between it and AGP/DIMM/USB ports
7x 16V 100uF 6x10mm* - Spread out, between PCI slots, between ATX power and DIMM sockets, close to CMOS batt,
1x 25V 10uF miniscule :p - Next to Super I/O chip

* I don't have a super accurate way of measuring them on the board.

Any suggestion for suitable replacements? Panasonic FR's are probably the easiest to get a hold of here (through ELFA Sweden), but I'd be very grateful for any input!

Thanks a lot in advance!
/Chris

[PeTTs0n]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Been looking through alternatives, and as I suspected, Panasonic FR's are readily available as replacement for all of them (bar the 25V 10uF - I don't really feel I need to replace that one though), and I was wondering - do I need to replace the 100uF-ers? Or is it just the main ones (the 1000 and 1500uF)?

Options are as follows (leads are all the same, sizes the same unless specified);

11x 6.3V 1500uF 8x17mm~, 3.5mm~ lead:
Panasonic FR - EEUFR0J152L, 8x20mm
United Chemi-Con KZM - EKZM6R3ELL152MH20D, 8x20mm
United Chemi-Con KZN - EKZN6R3ELL152MH20D, 8x20mm
Nichicon UHV - UHV0J152MPD, 8x20mm

4x 6.3V 1000uF 8x15mm~, 3.5mm~ lead:
Panasonic FR - EEUFR0J102, 8x11.5mm
United Chemi-Con LXZ - ELXZ6R3ELL102MH15D
Nichicon UHE - UHE0J102MPD1TD
Nichicon HZ - UHZ0J102MPM

8x 10V 1000uF 8x15mm~, 3.5mm~ lead:
Panasonic FR - EEU-FR1A102L
United Chemi-Con KZH - EKZH100ELL102MH15D
United Chemi-Con KZM - EKZM100ELL102MH15D
United Chemi-Con KZM - EKZM100ETD102MH15D (didn't find the difference between these two)
Rubycon ZLH - 10ZLH1000MEFC8X16, 8x16mm
Nichicon UHV - UHV1A102MPD6
Würth WCAP-ATLL - 860160274029, 8x16mm
Würth WCAP-ATG8 - 860010274015, 8x16mm

I didn't list the 100uF options yet, it took me enough time to find these. ^^

The listed options are basically what's available to me through the major distributors I can access here (Elfa and Mouser), and what they've got in stock. Are there any of the listed ones I should stay far away from, and/or jump on the chance to get above the others? Would really appreciate any advice.

[PeTTs0n]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Update:

Well, just my luck - both major distributors are lacking FR's for at least one cap model (Elfa is lacking the 100uF 16V EEUFR1C101, with no apparent suitable replacement (RND Components is the only other manufacturer available, with a few models), and Mouser is lacking the 1500uF 16V EEUFR0J152L, with at least a few options in stock), so those are the ones I'm more inclined to look for a suitable replacement for, to be able to order from one place rather than two.

So it boils down to a main question right now - would the Nichicon UHV (UHV0J152MPD) be suitable as a drop-in replacement? If so, I can get those for the 11x 6.3V 1500uF and run Panasonic FR's on the rest. I've tried digging for ESR info, but have found next to nothing. Rated impedance and ripple current both seem about equivalent (0.030Ω and 1560mA/100kHz for the FR's, and 0.031Ω and 1550mA/100kHz for the UHV's), but haven't got enough electrical knowledge to look for other signs to tell if they're suitable.

[lti]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Jackcon has a few low ESR series, and they didn't put the series name on their caps back then.

http://www.paullinebarger.net/DS/Jac...S%20Series.pdf
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...24fd86417a.pdf
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...e8ca49bce1.pdf
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...6df460f7ab.pdf

The small caps probably aren't low ESR.

[PeTTs0n]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Jackcon has a few low ESR series, and they didn't put the series name on their caps back then.

http://www.paullinebarger.net/DS/Jac...S%20Series.pdf
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...24fd86417a.pdf
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...e8ca49bce1.pdf
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...6df460f7ab.pdf

The small caps probably aren't low ESR.

Yeah, the only visible info I got on them is the "B058 LOW E.S.R." marking - same on all but the smaller (10 and 100uF) caps.

The Nichicon UHV caps I've been looking at seem to be a variant of the HV series, which is mentioned on the "good caps" list here, so I might go for them if there are no other suggestions or alternatives.

[lti]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Considering that there is no series marked on those caps, it's kind of a wild guess. Those Nichicon caps and Panasonic FRs are worth a try. My wild guess is that the original caps are the LEK series (based on your measurements), but I've seen some Jackcon caps that didn't match the dimensions in their datasheets. Also, the motherboard pictures I've seen show that the caps are two different colors, which would normally indicate different series.

I found the Vogons post you mentioned (and a post you made there).
https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=76347
https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php...23832&p=178534

[PeTTs0n]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Considering that there is no series marked on those caps, it's kind of a wild guess. Those Nichicon caps and Panasonic FRs are worth a try. My wild guess is that the original caps are the LEK series (based on your measurements), but I've seen some Jackcon caps that didn't match the dimensions in their datasheets. Also, the motherboard pictures I've seen show that the caps are two different colors, which would normally indicate different series.

I found the Vogons post you mentioned (and a post you made there).
https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=76347
https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php...23832&p=178534

Thanks for the effort, and encouragement - I think I'll go with the FRs and UHVs. I didn't know if I should link my Vogons thread, wasn't sure about linking to another forum.

Shame that the good caps list here is so outdated, lots of new cap series introduced since it was posted. :/
I just checked through my other thread regarding a MSI 848P recap (where I had even less of a clue of what I was doing), and there United Chemi-Con KZM and Rubycon ZLH was recommended as replacement for similar caps and usage, so I might go for them.

[PeTTs0n]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Ordered FRs, KZMs and a few ZLHs for this and an MSI 694T Pro recap, so here's hoping the boards will liven up a bit with them. And I embarassed myself by not seeing that the UHV series *is* HV and that the U just designates the type. :p

[momaka]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Posting a bit late but... seems like you got everything in order. Most Pentium 3 motherboards didn't use ultra-low ESR caps, so the FR's, KZM's, and ZLH's should all end up working fine. I wouldn't worry about the 100 uF and smaller caps for the most part - at least the ones around the PCI slots and audio chip, as those likely aren't handling heavy ripple and thus not that important.

[PeTTs0n]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Posting a bit late but... seems like you got everything in order. Most Pentium 3 motherboards didn't use ultra-low ESR caps, so the FR's, KZM's, and ZLH's should all end up working fine. I wouldn't worry about the 100 uF and smaller caps for the most part - at least the ones around the PCI slots and audio chip, as those likely aren't handling heavy ripple and thus not that important.

Appreciate the encouragement, this is still pretty uncharted territory for me and I spent way too much time this weekend trying to go through cap spec sheets and making as much heads or tails of them as I could. ^^

Will update the thread (for posterity if nothing else) as soon as I get the boards recapped. Got 100uF:ers too, they were pretty cheap and wouldn't cost anything extra (offer to do the job was the same price regardless of them) to have recapped so thought that I might as well. Ignored the 10uF though. :p

Noticed that I didn't include any photos of the board to be recapped (plus the 694T Pro) - posting my reference (in Swe) photos I used. (Yes, my paint skills are awful - I just did them quick for reference. ^^)

[momaka]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Appreciate the encouragement, this is still pretty uncharted territory for me and I spent way too much time this weekend trying to go through cap spec sheets and making as much heads or tails of them as I could. ^^

Yeah, the first few times always takes a bit longer and you're always more careful. After a while, though (if you do this often enough), you kind of start to remember which cap series are good for what and which era, and then you can just "wing it".

Will update the thread (for posterity if nothing else) as soon as I get the boards recapped. Got 100uF:ers too, they were pretty cheap and wouldn't cost anything extra

Sounds good, looking forward to hear it working.

Ignored the 10uF though. :p

Yeah, they are not big enough to matter. Sometimes I replace those with ceramic SMD caps from scrap Xbox 360 motherboards, if the expected voltage is low enough and I actually feel like doing more soldering therapy.

(Yes, my paint skills are awful - I just did them quick for reference. ^^)

Don't worry, this isn't art school so we won't judge.
As long as the picture portrays useful information, the rest really doesn't matter.

That said, I noticed that on the MSI 694T board, you circled some 6.3V, 2200 uF caps with K-vents. Those look like Rubycon MBZ... and if they are, they're probably still OK. You can replace them if you want, but I'd keep them as spares, since they are probably still in spec, despite being a little old now.

Also, for the 10V, 1000 uF caps and 6.3V, 1000 uF caps.... you could have used just 6.3V, 1000 uF caps for all of them if you like. This is because standard PSU voltages are 3.3V, 5V, and 12V. Clearly neither the 10V nor the 6.3V caps can be used on the 12V rail, but both would be OK for the 5V and 3.3V rail (or any of the mobo rails that are less than 3.3V.) As such, you don't need to stock two different voltages... though it's also worth noting that within the same series of any cap brand, the higher voltage caps usually will be physically bigger and also offer lower ESR / impedance and ripple current specs. So that does give you more options to choose from (as if there weren't enough cap brands already! )

[PeTTs0n]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Yeah, the first few times always takes a bit longer and you're always more careful. After a while, though (if you do this often enough), you kind of start to remember which cap series are good for what and which era, and then you can just "wing it".

At least until those pesky manufacturers come out with a new series and/or one intended to replace an old one.
Or figure out a new, "better" electrolytic formula - that can surely never backfire.

Sounds good, looking forward to hear it working.

Yeah, they are not big enough to matter. Sometimes I replace those with ceramic SMD caps from scrap Xbox 360 motherboards, if the expected voltage is low enough and I actually feel like doing more soldering therapy.

Don't worry, this isn't art school so we won't judge.
As long as the picture portrays useful information, the rest really doesn't matter.

That said, I noticed that on the MSI 694T board, you circled some 6.3V, 2200 uF caps with K-vents. Those look like Rubycon MBZ... and if they are, they're probably still OK. You can replace them if you want, but I'd keep them as spares, since they are probably still in spec, despite being a little old now.

Yup, they're MBZ's and they seem ok - but seeing as I don't know the history of the board at all, and it's pushing on 20 years old... and I'm turning it over to have it recapped, I've got FRs to replace them. They gave me all the old caps back last time, so I'm expecting to get all desoldered ones when I get the boards back. Jackcon, Teapo and G-Luxon ones go straight to the bin. ^^
Might save the Rubycons for if and when the day comes when I get to soldering a bit myself.

Also, for the 10V, 1000 uF caps and 6.3V, 1000 uF caps.... you could have used just 6.3V, 1000 uF caps for all of them if you like. This is because standard PSU voltages are 3.3V, 5V, and 12V. Clearly neither the 10V nor the 6.3V caps can be used on the 12V rail, but both would be OK for the 5V and 3.3V rail (or any of the mobo rails that are less than 3.3V.) As such, you don't need to stock two different voltages... though it's also worth noting that within the same series of any cap brand, the higher voltage caps usually will be physically bigger and also offer lower ESR / impedance and ripple current specs. So that does give you more options to choose from (as if there weren't enough cap brands already! )

You're not making this easier!

If I was a bit more into the whole recapping process (and not just doing it on paper/in theory, and not using boards that I care that much about), I'd definitely try to learn a bit more about what to use and when - at least I'm learning a bit about it all as I go, glad to have picked up a bit since last time. This place is a godsend for learning, along with other dedicated forums. And I do appreciate the info and replies in both this and my other thread! Seeing as I recap so few boards and buy so few caps, it isn't gonna save me all that much money to reduce the amount of cap types - and it's only gonna cause me more headache until I learn to calculate and see it all a bit better in my head, lol.

I consider myself relatively tech-savvy and can probably build PCs in my sleep, but... there's always so much more to learn. Humbling, really.
Again, thanks for the feedback!

One day, I'll get a real soldering station, and an actual half-decent (or better) multimeter, and actually get to work learning the trade... one day.

[ChaosLegionnaire]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Don't worry, this isn't art school so we won't judge.

yea this isnt the swedish academy of fine arts, to paraphrase my electronics lecturer in a polytechnic i attended. so we wont nitpick your schematic drawing or other drawing skills as long as we can understand whats written on it.

u also arent selling this motherboard on IKEA with the caps for the buyers to solder it on themselves! talk about IKEA selling DIY furniture along with DIY electronics. hahahaha!

speaking of which, i need to man up and pluck up the courage to brave the public transport covid gauntlet (since health experts warn that public transport has high risk of covid contagion), head to the nearest IKEA near my place and grab some LADDA rechargeable batteries as well as the charger. hehe!

so greta thunberg will be praising me for saving the environment by cutting down on battery waste and ABBA will be waxing lyrical about me being a super trooper and braving the covid gauntlet!

okay i think that covers all that i know sweden is famous for, so thanks for reading my stand up comedy performance lol!!

[PeTTs0n]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

yea this isnt the swedish academy of fine arts, to paraphrase my electronics lecturer in a polytechnic i attended. so we wont nitpick your schematic drawing or other drawing skills as long as we can understand whats written on it.

u also arent selling this motherboard on IKEA with the caps for the buyers to solder it on themselves! talk about IKEA selling DIY furniture along with DIY electronics. hahahaha!

speaking of which, i need to man up and pluck up the courage to brave the public transport covid gauntlet (since health experts warn that public transport has high risk of covid contagion), head to the nearest IKEA near my place and grab some LADDA rechargeable batteries as well as the charger. hehe!

so greta thunberg will be praising me for saving the environment by cutting down on battery waste and ABBA will be waxing lyrical about me being a super trooper and braving the covid gauntlet!

okay i think that covers all that i know sweden is famous for, so thanks for reading my stand up comedy performance lol!!

Quick update - both boards have been recapped, and I think it was another employee at the place who did the work this time. It seems good, but not as good, and I didn't get the old caps back.

After having spent the past day (far more hours than I'd like, I'll blame being an aspie) fighting the 694T Pro, I'll post photos and results when I can. I need a couple of days of sleep first, I think.

The 694T Pro at least posts now, which is more than it did when I last tried it. That said, when trying with my 1200 P3 Tualatin, I get memory errors and halts in Memtest86+, whereas a 1100A Celeron (Tualatin) works completely fine, *if* properly seated. Had to reseat it a couple of times to get it to boot at all, not sure if there's a contact issue in the socket or the CPU, but that was a frustrating troubleshoot.

Seeing they have similar power consumption, and the PSU should be able to handle the load alright (24A on both 3.3V and 5V, 130W combined), it could be a defective 1200. Tiny scratch visible in the IHS, but I haven't found that to be an issue on other P3s with the metal IHS'. Temps are A-OK with a pretty chunky Akasa cooler - mounting tension seems reasonable, for a S370/462 cooler.

TL;DR: caps and recap job seem good at least, woop woop. ^^

[momaka]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

The 694T Pro at least posts now, which is more than it did when I last tried it. That said, when trying with my 1200 P3 Tualatin, I get memory errors and halts in Memtest86+, whereas a 1100A Celeron (Tualatin) works completely fine, *if* properly seated. Had to reseat it a couple of times to get it to boot at all, not sure if there's a contact issue in the socket or the CPU, but that was a frustrating troubleshoot.

Hmmm.

Being socket 370, the socket is surely pinned (i.e. not BGA), so I doubt contact between socket pins and mobo is bad... but do check socket solder joints on board under good light, if you get a chance.

If you have 90% or better IPA / rubbing alcohol, spill a bunch of that in the CPU socket with the CPU removed. Then insert CPU and open and close the latch a few times. Or if you are more experimental, you could also open (pry) the top plastic part of the ZIF socket away to expose the pin contacts, then clean with tootbrush and IPA. That will probably give better results, but some ZIF sockets are really hard to open without damaging them.

Aside from that, you can also try inserting pressure @ various points on the motherboard while trying to power it up to see if the POST symptoms change. If they do, there may be a bad connection or solder joint somewhere.

Also, if the issue is persistent with the Tualatin CPU but board is completely stable with the Celeron CPU, then perhaps there is a compatibility issue?

Seeing they have similar power consumption, and the PSU should be able to handle the load alright (24A on both 3.3V and 5V, 130W combined), it could be a defective 1200.

Well now that you mentioned your PSU again, I see it's a Seasonic S12II platform. If that's the same as the one Antec used for their Earthwatts series, you should definitely check the caps inside. Most (if not all) of those came with OST caps. The 12V rail main filter cap, an OST RLX @ 3300 uF, is a known offender on many units. The 3.3V and 5V rail caps are usually OK... though they are usually OST RLX as well, which isn't a very stable series. The black OST RLS are overall better, though.

Tiny scratch visible in the IHS, but I haven't found that to be an issue on other P3s with the metal IHS'.

Yeah, a scratch on the IHS should not be an issue at all, unless the scratch was so deep that there is a ridge next to it, which could cause the heatsink to not sit flat on top of the CPU. But even then, P3's are known to be OK, even if the cooling fails. Socket A CPUs are the ones where if the heatsink wasn't mounted properly, the CPU would let the magic smoke out.

So all in all, I think it's unlikely that the CPU is damaged or that there is a heat issue.

okay i think that covers all that i know sweden is famous for, so thanks for reading my stand up comedy performance lol!!

You forgot Volvo's!
... though I have no clue where that would have fit with the discussion in this thread.

[PeTTs0n]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Hmmm.

Being socket 370, the socket is surely pinned (i.e. not BGA), so I doubt contact between socket pins and mobo is bad... but do check socket solder joints on board under good light, if you get a chance.

If you have 90% or better IPA / rubbing alcohol, spill a bunch of that in the CPU socket with the CPU removed. Then insert CPU and open and close the latch a few times. Or if you are more experimental, you could also open (pry) the top plastic part of the ZIF socket away to expose the pin contacts, then clean with tootbrush and IPA. That will probably give better results, but some ZIF sockets are really hard to open without damaging them.


Aside from that, you can also try inserting pressure @ various points on the motherboard while trying to power it up to see if the POST symptoms change. If they do, there may be a bad connection or solder joint somewhere.

Also, if the issue is persistent with the Tualatin CPU but board is completely stable with the Celeron CPU, then perhaps there is a compatibility issue?

That's what I thought as well, will see if I can use some isopropyl alcohol to clean the contacts on the CPU and/or the board. Seeing how reseating/wiggling a little can change the result... I'd say there's a chance there's lousy contact between CPU and socket somewhere. I've got a hold of 1.26GHz P3 Tualatin as well, will see if that works any better - both it and the 1.2 are specified to be compatible with the board though.

Honestly, I haven't tried cleaning the pins on the CPUs themselves yet.

Well now that you mentioned your PSU again, I see it's a Seasonic S12II platform. If that's the same as the one Antec used for their Earthwatts series, you should definitely check the caps inside. Most (if not all) of those came with OST caps. The 12V rail main filter cap, an OST RLX @ 3300 uF, is a known offender on many units. The 3.3V and 5V rail caps are usually OK... though they are usually OST RLX as well, which isn't a very stable series. The black OST RLS are overall better, though.

It's the newer revision (80Plus Bronze certified), which uses Chemi-Con caps ("Japanese" according to Seasonic product page, Chemi-Con according to the review - might've changed brand or model since the review I guess, but I doubt there are OST's in there ) for both primary and secondary side. Fortunately. ^^
The 3.3V and 5V rails aren't extremely impressive, but should be enough if I've calculated correctly. It's not like I'm running a T-Bird system. :p
Only found a single review when googling, but it seems ok for what it is. Hard to tell in the reasonable price range what modern PSU has ok 3.3V and 5V rails though considering virtually all the effort is put into the 12V. Still looking for options, might try to get a hold of an old Enermax and recap it - should last for a while. Still prefer modern units with better designs/components, cooling, efficiency and protections though.

That said, I haven't taken the S12II apart and checked caps and general apparent build quality - seeing I still got warranty on it, I'm not too keen on doing it either. At least for a few years, until the warranty expires. :p

Yeah, a scratch on the IHS should not be an issue at all, unless the scratch was so deep that there is a ridge next to it, which could cause the heatsink to not sit flat on top of the CPU. But even then, P3's are known to be OK, even if the cooling fails. Socket A CPUs are the ones where if the heatsink wasn't mounted properly, the CPU would let the magic smoke out.

So all in all, I think it's unlikely that the CPU is damaged or that there is a heat issue.

Yeah, and it sure doesn't look cracked deeper either, closer to the actual die. (That said, it's not impossible that it's busted - I've never gotten it to work completely as long as I've had it. Tried on two boards, one never POSTed. Both boards had their own issues though, so jury's out on it all.)
Temps look fine when monitoring, and even if old temp sensors can be unreliable as all crap, I'm not feeling any significant heat in the vicinity of the CPU or the heatsink at all. Seeing it's a 370/462 cooler designed to handle T-Birds, it should keep the little P3 in check without an issue. ^^

You forgot Volvo's!
... though I have no clue where that would have fit with the discussion in this thread.

I prefer the Koenigseggs, equally Swedish but ever so slightly more fancy.
Thanks yet again for the input - contact cleaning seems like a good step to take.

[ChaosLegionnaire]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

You forgot Volvo's!
... though I have no clue where that would have fit with the discussion in this thread.

yes, i can! maybe i should get myself a car like a volvo! that should resolve my hypocondriac whimp issues with contracting covid-19 on public transport. lol!

I've got a hold of 1.26GHz P3 Tualatin as well, will see if that works any better - both it and the 1.2 are specified to be compatible with the board though.

errr... from where did u read that it supports tualatins? the information im getting from around the web is that 440bx chipset boards can only support coppermines. using tualatins on 440bx chipset boards requires modding the cpu pins. doesnt mean that if it fits into the socket, it will work 100%...

[PeTTs0n]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

yes, i can! maybe i should get myself a car like a volvo! that should resolve my hypocondriac whimp issues with contracting covid-19 on public transport. lol!

errr... from where did u read that it supports tualatins? the information im getting from around the web is that 440bx chipset boards can only support coppermines. using tualatins on 440bx chipset boards requires modding the cpu pins. doesnt mean that if it fits into the socket, it will work 100%...

Sorry, I meant the MSI 694T Pro now - sorry for mixing them up, been messing waaay too much with these two boards the past few weeks.
I know the 440BX requires a lot of love to get a Tualatin to work, with a slotket and/or socket-mod. ^^ (Had a nice ASUS slotket setup ages ago, but that rig is long gone.)
As for the BX133-RAID, I'll get to it, soon™!

[PeTTs0n]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

Sigh, short update again: got an Enermax 465W with nice rail distribution for older setups (44A 5V goodness). And of course, it's dead on arrival. Primary caps are Hitachi HP3, secondary are CEC(?) CE-TUR series caps - no visible damage at all.
Regardless, it fails to power on a P3, a P4 and even a PSU tester - so it seems very much dead.

Haven't decided whether to try and find a modern PSU that can output enough (a Tualatin P3 shouldn't be *too* power-hungry, after all - Corsair CX650M is the most reasonable I can find while looking around a bit), try and have it recapped or try to find another suitable second-hand one.

[ChaosLegionnaire]

Re: Abit BX133-RAID odd issue, bad caps?

just post the pics of the psu in the psu subforum, post the full model number and describe why it wont/cant work. we can try to take a crack at fixing it. some of these old enermaxes are worth repairing.