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    #1

    P4C800-E Deluxe





    I recapped the major caps on the P4C800-E. The row of 7 OST RLZ 1500uf 6.3 i replaced with 4 3300uf 6.3 Panny FC. Also i did the 4 chemicon KZE 1200uf 16V with 1500uf 10V FC. Gonna do the 20!!! OST 1000uf 6.3s later cos the RLZ were a real bastard to remove. had the iron on one for so long that it started fizzing. not good.

    The thing is there is this coil hum which happens each time i press a key in the bios. doesnt do it in dos when i type. cant remember if it did it before, prolly did. what is the reason for coil hum?

    EDIT : I have found it is a mistake to replace the 16V KZE with 10V caps cos it is probably the 12V to the VRM. I am putting them back until my next cap order.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by willawake; 08-31-2005, 04:22 PM.
    capacitor lab yachtmati techmati
    Tags: None
    #2
    Ah shit...I better do my PCC M848 & K7S5A Pro soon...same caps...
    Ya'll think us folk from the country's real funny-like, dontcha?

    The opinions expressed above do not represent those of BADCAPS.NET or any of their affiliates.

    Comment

      #3
      I hear you about taking for ever to melt a stubborn solder joint. Some manufacturers must use some pretty crappy solder. I recently screwed an MSI board doing just this.

      Usually I leave the old solder in the joint. I melt it and coax the replacement cap through it - then finish the joint off with some fresh solder afterwards. The two boards I have tried clearing the holes in using a solder sucker resulted in their demise because I ended up applying too much heat with my sledgehammer soldering iron and frying the PCB joint.

      Gonna get a dental pick and give that a try. Hopefully it will mean avoiding such incidents in the future. Clearing the holes is obviously a better and more desirable course of action but not if it destroys the board in the process.

      Could the coil humm you are experiencing be a result of the joint which got fried?

      Neo.

      Comment

        #4
        i hope i didnt screw the board. anyway it is posting and running memtests fine so it at least it will have some future use.

        This time i found a thick (not sharp, rounded) sewing needle that was just the right size for the port and screwed it down into some electrical connecting blocks to make a nice handle. worked great. i am gonna look for a dental pick though, i can see it is a great technique.

        i am thinking that as the manufacturers switch to lead free solder we are gonna need more temperature.
        capacitor lab yachtmati techmati

        Comment

          #5
          Hey, I just tried the dental pick thanks to my local dentist.
          Had to apply some heat to straighten out the curved point a bit.

          The bad news: Seems to create an untidy solder cast of the pick which you then have to trim.

          The good news: Easily creates a nice hole just right for cap leads which seem to neatly hold the cap in place without any other help - great for resoldering.

          The great news: This was not obvious till I tried it but I think the pick acts as a heatsink, drawing away heat from the joint and largely precluding the possibility of frying it.

          Looking forward to doing a whole board with it. May just be the thing on those stubborn MSI board joints.

          Overall - seems like some huge advantages, the only drawback being a little trimming involved. Should make the whole proceedure a lot easier and faster.

          Neo.

          Comment

            #6
            Seems to create an untidy solder cast of the pick which you then have to trim.
            Topcat recommends to use an x-acto knife to trim that.

            If you are not careful with the knife it will slip and chop a trace. i dont recommend any beginners reading this to mess around with knives near the board. could try the lead clippers on it. otherwise get the new cap in, pick up the excess solder with the iron and sling it on the curtains/other employees trousers like a pro......
            capacitor lab yachtmati techmati

            Comment

              #7
              LMAO

              So that's how the pros do it huh!

              Comment

                #8
                yeh and wear safety glasses cos SAFETY FIRST!!!!
                capacitor lab yachtmati techmati

                Comment

                  #9
                  found the article i was looking for again about improving this board

                  P4C800E-Deluxe modifications for overclocking stability
                  http://www.finetune.jp/~lyuka/interests/pc/p4c800e.html

                  also has :

                  A maintenance and stabilization of ABIT BP6
                  http://www.finetune.jp/~lyuka/interests/pc/bp6.html

                  rest is in japanese
                  http://www.finetune.jp/~lyuka/contents/info.html
                  Last edited by willawake; 05-12-2005, 01:01 AM.
                  capacitor lab yachtmati techmati

                  Comment

                    #10
                    why you replace the KZE? is it bad (bulging or leaking)? i just found the suplier of KZG series with 1500uf 8mm 6.3v...

                    i just want to know if i will safe to use those chemicon caps... (kze or kzg) too good to be true..
                    days are so short when you actually do something..

                    Comment

                      #11
                      it is agreed that the chemi-con are good caps. But for this board i want only panasonic FC. This board is brand new actually but the voltage fluctuations are terrible.

                      problem is that this board is the most difficult to work on. the solder is shit. i am afraid to screw the board in the end.

                      anyway i edited my first post cos i am putting the chemicon back. It is my first p4 board i am recapping and i forgot it uses 12V for the VRM so the 10V 1500uf caps are no good. I will get some 16V on my next order (gonna recap some zyxel equipment soon).
                      capacitor lab yachtmati techmati

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Re: P4C800-E Deluxe

                        It doesn't make sense for a i875P board to be capped with OSTs, especially for an Asus board.

                        I spent some time in my local tech stores searching out whether P4P800-SE and P4P800-E Deluxe use better caps, and the SE had full of OSTs. I ended up buying the P4P800-E Deluxe despite being more expensive, because it was capped with Chemicons (KZG) and Panasonic (FC). I expected the same standard with P4C800-E Deluxe, but it appeared not...

                        Oddly enough, most people overclocked their Pentium-Ms higher with the SE. I'm getting mediocre results with the Deluxe.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Re: P4C800-E Deluxe

                          the worst thing is that some of the caps are an absolute bastard to remove. in the end i killed the board. (first one) and some of the sets of lead ports have one port with much smaller diameter.

                          It is a great board but i prefer the intel d875pbzlk (not interested in overclocking)
                          Last edited by willawake; 08-01-2005, 03:12 AM.
                          capacitor lab yachtmati techmati

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Re: P4C800-E Deluxe

                            Hi All,

                            I had such a board with a blown off VRM south from the memory slots. Though it still booted, it stopped at the POST screen. After replacing the VRM, now it stops with A4 error code, with no VGA output. Any idea what went wrong?

                            Thanks in advance,
                            Wigyori

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Re: P4C800-E Deluxe

                              i decided to have another go on the board. bingo i found two traces lifted off the board by excessive heating. actually using my latest method it was not too difficult to work on the board. i found great difficulty before on that board and it became a careless job.

                              the latest method is that i add solder to both sides of the board, then i heat the rear of the board and quickly get the needle as far in as i can, either it will go through nicely the first time but more likely with these p4 boards, it will either go nowhere or half the way through, then i heat from the front of the board while pushing and wiggling the needle from the rear until i get it through. The most important part is the wiggling. Some holes the needle will come right through, others it will not go very far in so the wiggling clears the hole if you watch the solder carefully from the front.

                              I have been able recently to use the knife as TC says to clean the excess solder from the holes. if it is minor you can use your finger nail to remove it, otherwise the knife but be careful.

                              imho TC has a iron which heats in excess of 450oC which is why he can work on the rear of the board only and get the dental pick through the first time. If i get another iron i will look for a hotter one, at the moment i am ok with my technique and this iron.

                              i wanted to highlight though the necessity to look at your technique and develop a technique which required the shortest heating of the vias but most of all to see close up what you are doing. Are you heating the vias or are you heating the board too much also. Whatever your technique it does not matter how you do it as long as it is the fastest way for you. I can see that if i was using my latest technique i would not have lifted traces.

                              i am finding it impossible to add solder to the traces so i will look into that conductive pen Rainbow talked about if i want to repair this board.

                              This weekend was kinda wierd dealing with the trashcan of boards.

                              i have also

                              CUSL2 with ps2 problem, this board had also physically damaged usb port so i was happy to successfully replace that today from a donor board.

                              albatron 865 board with ps2 problem again. this was removed from clients office after wierd ps2 problem where they keyboard would make beeps after a while even in bios as well. It was plundered of caps when i needed some so now recapped and ps2 keyboard not recognised.

                              i would like some advice about where the fuse is for the keyboard and what it looks like please. maybe i try that.
                              capacitor lab yachtmati techmati

                              Comment

                                #16
                                Re: P4C800-E Deluxe

                                It's a small gray, beige or blue-ish self-resetting poly-fuse, but it can open permanently after several shorts. In a pinch, you can replace it with a 0.1 or 0.22 ohm resistor - just ensure that your keyboard doesn't draw too much current.

                                Comment

                                  #17
                                  Re: P4C800-E Deluxe

                                  I just got one of these boards in for repair... and noticed EVERY one of the caps is reverse notation for the installation.

                                  Every board I've done so far has the white silk screen lined up with the stripe on the cap. I just installed 6 VRM caps, and noticed they are backwards.

                                  The photos above also show the Stripe on the opposite side of the white screen art.

                                  The rest of the board I'm working on has the same (opposite) configuration.

                                  Any comments?

                                  Comment

                                    #18
                                    Re: P4C800-E Deluxe

                                    I pulled and discard the six Rubycon MCZ that I erroneously installed backwards. Also replaced the four KZE with MBZ equivalents.

                                    That said, the P4S800-MX will power up, but will not post, nor beep.

                                    Basic question: if the board powers up, does that mean the CPU is alive?
                                    Or, can a board power up with a smoked CPU.

                                    This board is loaded with OST 1000uF craps, and I kinda hate to waste all my Rubycons on a board that is hopeless. Is this a stupid posture, or is there a strong liklihood the OST field caps are preventing POST?
                                    Last edited by bgavin; 01-16-2008, 08:42 PM. Reason: edited for typos

                                    Comment

                                      #19
                                      Re: P4C800-E Deluxe

                                      I don't use a dental pick.

                                      I use a tiny un-oiled titanium nitride drill bit.
                                      (Way sharp so no force is needed.)
                                      -
                                      Choose a size or two smaller than the PCB hole and spin it with fingers. !.ONLY.!
                                      -
                                      If the hole is too small for the leads after it's all the way through then by not spinning the bit you can use the sides like a needle file. (Or you can follow with the next up bit size if that's not too big for the PCB hole.)

                                      I don't end up with tapered holes and I'm not 'pushing on' the old solder this way.
                                      Also the solder exposed by the bit is fresh, clean, and unoxidized.

                                      -
                                      Far easier and faster than the dental pick plan. (For me anyway.)

                                      You won't get the right bit sizes with a standard 29 piece bit set though.
                                      You need the huge set with the numbered sizes or to buy them individually.

                                      .
                                      Mann-Made Global Warming.
                                      - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
                                      -
                                      Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.
                                      - Dr Seuss
                                      -
                                      You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
                                      -

                                      Comment

                                        #20
                                        Re: P4C800-E Deluxe

                                        Oh,

                                        If you have trouble grasping the tiny bit then build up the end with several layers of heat shrink.
                                        Mann-Made Global Warming.
                                        - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
                                        -
                                        Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.
                                        - Dr Seuss
                                        -
                                        You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
                                        -

                                        Comment

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