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MSI K8N Master2-FAR (MS-9620)

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    MSI K8N Master2-FAR (MS-9620)

    I have 2 boards that are basically identical. Both are MSI K8N Master2-FAR (MS-9620). One board that functions as it should has a brown colored capacitor. These were acquired from a friend in the UK. It looks to me as though he tried to do a capacitor change that didn't go so well. The first picture is board that functions properly, the second is the one with the failed capacitor. They are obviously different. The capacitor is in the same location on both boards.
    My questions are: Is a 6.3v 1800uf capacitor better or worse than the original 16v 1000uf? Also, is there a solid cap available in the appropriate size needed?
    Are there any known problem caps on these boards and if so, which one's are they?

    Thanks




    #2
    Re: MSI K8N Master2-FAR (MS-9620)

    It's probably filtering 12V, so it needs to be rated for at least 16V.

    That cap in the first picture is a series that is known to fail. Replace all KZGs.

    Comment


      #3
      Re: MSI K8N Master2-FAR (MS-9620)

      So I should have 16v 1000uf or would 16v 1800uf be better? Also, is there a solid cap replacement for this?
      What is better, low or high uf rating? I understand higher voltage rating is better, right?

      Comment


        #4
        Re: MSI K8N Master2-FAR (MS-9620)

        Stick with 1000uF 16v if you're going to use electrolytics. Youcan get Nichicon HN or HZ here. If you want to use polies, then go with 470uF 16v parts. I would recommend going with Nichicon FPCAP NE series, as they have that size in 8mm diameter.
        I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

        No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

        Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

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        Comment


          #5
          Re: MSI K8N Master2-FAR (MS-9620)

          So I CAN go with a lower uf? Next question, because of fitment, I need to stay with 8mm, but does the overall height really matter? Since mine is 8X16, can I go with one like say 8X20?
          If I go with pilies, what height? 470uf 16v 8X?

          Thanks for all your Great info

          Comment


            #6
            Re: MSI K8N Master2-FAR (MS-9620)

            If you are using electrolytics, keep the capacitance the same. You can drop it if you are using polies, though. If you opt to poly mod it, use 470uF on the VRM input and 820uF on the output.
            I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

            No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

            Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

            Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

            Comment


              #7
              Re: MSI K8N Master2-FAR (MS-9620)

              Ok, you lost me with that.. whats the in and whats the output sides?

              Comment


                #8
                Re: MSI K8N Master2-FAR (MS-9620)

                According to this picture:

                http://hw-museum.cz/data/mb/pic/big/...ter2-FAR_F.jpg

                (from here: http://hw-museum.cz/view-mb.php?mbID=9 )

                That should be 16v rated capacitor... i can barely see a 16 at the top and other than voltage rating I don't know what could be.

                So I would probably go for 1000-1500uF 16v capacitor, Panasonic FM, FR, Nichicon HM, HN etc ...

                I don't think you need polymer capacitors for this fix, you should be able to stick just fine to electrolytics.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: MSI K8N Master2-FAR (MS-9620)

                  Here are pictures of the caps new the power and regulators. Which are input and output?





                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: MSI K8N Master2-FAR (MS-9620)

                    The VRM is above the processors.



                    (click to zoom)

                    Both processors are most likely powered only from that 8 pin connector between the heatsinks.

                    12v comes through that connector and those large yellow capacitors store a bit of energy, those are 16v rated, and from your picture in the post about probably 1000-1500uF (i only see two 00 on the label). I've circled those with green.
                    Notice that I didn't circle that capacitor right in the corner, which is rated for 6.3v - that one if I were to guess is for the 5v power of the USB ports on the back panel.

                    The DC-DC converters are formed by some chips under the heatsink and those inductors I've marked with blue X'es in the picture

                    The output of these dc-dc converters is "buffered" into the smaller capacitors that I circled with red, those are high quality polymer capacitors in a can that makes them look like electrolytic capacitors. You can see an even number, 8, for each processor. They're 820uF 2.5v capacitors Fujitsu (now they belong to Nichicon). You don't have to change those unless they are swollen or leak which I don't see in your picture.

                    The capacitors by the ATX connector are probably just to smooth some 12v and 5v for some auxiliary dc-dc converters spread on the motherboard... let's say maybe for powering up the memory modules, for chipset, fan on the chipset, for other things basically.

                    Some of them are even there just to make the fans smoother, for example the capacitors practically glued to fan headers.

                    edit: As for the second picture you posted in the above post... I don't know what that connector does. You'll have to check the motherboard manual. My guess is that it's an extra 12v connector which goes straight into the PCI-Express slots for video cards or raid controllers or whatever which demanded a lot of power. So if let's say user wanted to overclock video cards, there would be extra "juice" going to the video cards through that connector.

                    Those connectors are usually used with 12v, so it's a bit strange to see there a capacitor rated for 6.3v. it's possible that the 1000uF 6.3v capacitor has nothing to do with the connector. Either way, the KZE series from Nippon Chemi Con is not a "problem" series like KZG is, so if it looks ok, leave it like that.
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by mariushm; 08-15-2013, 07:36 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: MSI K8N Master2-FAR (MS-9620)

                      Ok, found out what all the correct capacitors are. A friend sent me some pictures of his board with all original capacitors. Looks like in my first post with pictures, the first picture of the brown capacitor IS the correct value. The blown black and gold is wrong. The 1800uF, 6.3v capacitor is actually supposed to be 1000uF, 16v. Guess that is why its blown..

                      Next questions..
                      I understand that the BEST capacitor to replace the 1000uF/16v is the Poly 470uF/16v, correct?

                      I want to replace ALL capacitors on this board that are not currently Poly. I'll list all the regular caps with their values. Please let me know what Poly caps should go in its place. I'm ready to go ALL Poly.. No real reason, other that to have one that is different. I do know to test the board after every few replaced in case of finding an issue..

                      1000uF/16v = 470uF/16v
                      1000uF/6.3v =
                      100uF/25v =
                      1800uF/6.3v =
                      3300uF/6.3v =

                      Thank You

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