hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

[bfordz]

I've got two d530 boards and 2 dc5000 boards with assorted bad caps. The first question I have are about the caps by the Printer port. They look like they've leaked fluid out the bottom, don't know if they do that.

Their not bloated or bulging so I need an opinion on whether or not to replace them.

They are Teapo SM or Nichicon HD

[Heihachi_73]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

Typical HP, a few bad apples spoils the bunch. Going so well with Nichicon, Panasonic and Sanyo/Fujitsu, then they throw in a few Teapo caps (do I see OST as well in there?) for good measure in a small form factor design known to have poor airflow.

That said, Teapo caps shouldn't leak out the bottom like a Rulycon or something equally crap, generally they will bulge (like the three around the heat sink) or simply dry up. In fact, what I'd like to know is how that fluid got between the parallel and USB ports and near the Nichicon caps, or was some of the fluid wiped off? It almost looks like something was spilt in there rather than cap juice.

Either way, do a capacitance and ESR test on those Teapos near the LPT port, and the ones near the heatsink (is it the flash or are these bulged?) just to make sure. The 11 VRM caps and the two suspect Nichicon HD caps should still be fine.

[ratdude747]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

^ Agreed.

My D530 (minitower version, same board) also bombed the two caps by the RAM... Those were so swollen... If those two are teapos, replace them!

[bfordz]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

Sorry, but I don't have any of the test equipment. The machines were acting strange with random issues so I took them out of service. I have another dc5000 that appeared "wet", I cleaned with alcohol but didn't help. Thought maybe what ever that was, was causing shortage isssues.

The pic above with heatsink/fan still in place was my latest victim of BSOD and a wet appearance, also other caps bulging. The board w/o processor doesn't appear to have much for bulging caps; I think just the two by the heat sink (yes flash but still bulging)
Yes, these boards have multiple Teapo Caps (two by the memory).

I'm putting together a better list of all the caps on the multiple boards...the bulging caps are of an assortment of brand and size. More Teapo SZ (memory) SC (heat sink) SM (printer port) than others but Nichicon HM's and Rubycons MCZ.

Thanks for the replies.

[bfordz]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

The pic of board above w/o processor is a dc5000, the only bulging caps are the Teapo SC 1000uf 6.3v near the heat sink. That's why I originally thought the wet appearance area was the problem. That board was pulled and replaced (w/ebay board) some time ago.

But if you can zoom in on the area which appears to have been wiped clean and look at the small chip on the board, I'm wondering if that isn't my problem by itself. I'll try to get a better pic of that area.

[bfordz]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

Here's what I've got for a list of 'bad' caps:

All - have two Teapo SZ by the memory slots, 3 bulging, 1 OK.
All - have two Teapo SC by the heat sink; 3 bulging, 1-ok
dc5000 - have one Rubycon MBZ by the memory - OK
d530 - have one Nichicon HM by the memory - bulging
three - have Panasonic FL at the CPU - OK
All - the smaller 820uf at the CPU are OK
one d530 - has 7 rubycon MCZ at the CPU 2 bulging/leaking @ top
Three - have Teapo SM at the printer port; 1-question of leakage
One - has Nichicon HD at the printer port; question of leakage

I'm working on my replacement list.

[bfordz]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

This is what I've come up with for replacements; I'd like any further advise or better suggestions if anyone has them.

For - Teapo 1500uf 6.3v SZ series - ripple = 1540 esr = 26
> replace with - EEUFM0J152 Panasonic 1500uf 6.3v FM series - ripple = 2.18 esr = 19

For - Teapo 1000uf 6.3v SC series - ripple = 580 esr = .150
> replace with - UHE0J102MPD Nichicon 1000uf 6.3v HE - ripple =840 esr = .087

For - Nichicon 3300uf 6.3v HM - ripple = 2800 esr = 12
> replace with - UHZ0J332MPM Nichicon 3300uf 6.3v HZ - ripple = 4690 esr = 6.5

For - Rubycon 1800uf 6.3v MCZ - ripple = 2350 esr = 12
> replace with - UHZ0J182MPM6 Nichicon 1800uf 6.3v HZ - ripple = 2.88 esr = 9

For - Teapo 1200uf 16v SM - ripple = 1900 esr = .023 (at printer port)
> I don't have a replacement for these yet. I'm going to see if replacing the obvious bad caps fixes my issues before going after these.

[momaka]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

This is what I've come up with for replacements; I'd like any further advise or better suggestions if anyone has them.

These HP DC5000/D530 SFF desktops run very hot. I recommend a polymod. Here is what I ended up doing on a lot of these:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=23503
Both versions of the above mod have been tested and are 100% stable.

[bfordz]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

momaka,

I took your advise and have my poly's ordered; I'll update when I've got them replaced.
Thanks again

[Kiriakos GR]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

Those D530 has great motherboards, I got two of them as gifts.
The one had blown caps, the other was dead.
I just use the healthy caps from the dead one as replacement, and now is good as new.

The problem regarding overheating was created by the BIOS mostly, which was turning off the fan even when the CPU was hot.
HP has available a BIOS update about it, yes those are old news, but it worth repairing it and do the Bios update, so to eliminate the chances about facing the same problem.

[momaka]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

Those D530 has great motherboards, I got two of them as gifts.
The one had blown caps, the other was dead.

I have 2 DC5000 motherboards that appear totally dead (they won't boot due to a short on 5VSB rail). Haven't had a chance to troubleshoot them yet.

[Kiriakos GR]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

My comment as great motherboards has to do about stability and features.
In my D530 I have install an overkill heatsink (SLK 600 full copper) and a 90mm high quality fan at the top.
This setup will live for ever, and it is noiseless.

[bfordz]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

kiriakos GR,
Thanks for the advise about the BIOS, I had not look there for any updates for over heating issues but I will once I get the re-caps done.

I have multiple d530's in our shop that's "not" temp controlled; when it's 100oF outside, it's the same inside and I can just imagine how hot these boxes are.

momaka,
If you look at my original post the pic on the right is actually of a dc5000 not a d530 and the small chip near the back of the board (even with the left side of the printer port) looks toast to me; I don't think I'm going to recap this one...maybe practice on it. If it saves I'll be surprised.

I've got plenty of others to try and save!

[momaka]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

My comment as great motherboards has to do about stability and features.

Yes, it's a very stable board. Even with lots of blown caps, it will still work sometimes. Lots of buck regulators in the design - I really like that.

If you look at my original post the pic on the right is actually of a dc5000 not a d530 and the small chip near the back of the board (even with the left side of the printer port) looks toast to me

Seems fine. That stuff looks more like dust to me.

[kc8adu]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

make sure that isnt mouse piss.i doubt its electrolyte.just had an ibm sff box in with that sort of deposit.had to remind customer that the mouse must remain outside the system at all times.

[bfordz]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

I've got one D530 and one DC5000 done with partial re-capping.
Both have fixed the original problems; blue screens and weird issues.
Both failed the MS Memory Diagnostics; now with new caps in place it tests great.

I replaced the 3 caps along the memory, 2-1500uf 1-3300uf 6.3v("C" in momaka's diagram), the three along the printer port 1200uf 16v (which appeared to be wet/leaking...just in case) and the two small 1000uf 6.3v("f" again in diagram) near the heatsink.

I have more to do; I have one D530 with most of the caps on the board bulging "AND" still running fine...go figure. That one will probably get a complete re-cap, save that one for last.

Thanks for everyone's input and advise.

[momaka]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

I've got one D530 and one DC5000 done with partial re-capping.
Both have fixed the original problems; blue screens and weird issues.
Both failed the MS Memory Diagnostics; now with new caps in place it tests great.

I replaced the 3 caps along the memory, 2-1500uf 1-3300uf 6.3v("C" in momaka's diagram), the three along the printer port 1200uf 16v (which appeared to be wet/leaking...just in case) and the two small 1000uf 6.3v("f" again in diagram) near the heatsink.

You may want to replace the rest of the 1000 uF 6.3V caps if they are Teapo, though - they will all eventually fail.

I have more to do; I have one D530 with most of the caps on the board bulging "AND" still running fine...go figure.

Yeah, like I mentioned above, these boards are designed quite well and can take quite a bit of abuse from bad/leaky caps.

Congrats on the fixes by the way .

[bfordz]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

momaka,

question: since you've done some d530's; I've got a d530 I'm doing the caps along the CPU and it hasn't been easy.

Did you notice or have a harder time with those caps...getting them off clean and installing OK?

I had a terrible time getting the old solder out for a "clean" install, I used "solder wick" (w and w/o added flux), I added solder then tried the s/w, but no matter what I did there was still a small amount sealing the hole I couldn't get out. I wound up using a 'solder sucker' to get the remains out.

Now I'm having issues re-soldering the new one's in (one leg). I even went to the extent to get a chisel tip for my iron; instead of my cone shape; which work well for the other caps so far.

I'm using a Weller 40 watt iron; did you have to use a better "station" to do those? I'm wondering if my iron just isn't good enough for those caps and where they're located? I just don't like the looks of my solder joints on these cap compared to the others I've done.

This is my first go round with mobo caps, especially around the cpu...living and learning

I'm trying to get some pics but my camera is giving me a hard time with close-ups

TIA

[bfordz]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

Here's a couple of pictures...is it as bad as I think?

[momaka]

Re: hp d530 board questions-caps leaking?

question: since you've done some d530's; I've got a d530 I'm doing the caps along the CPU and it hasn't been easy.

Did you notice or have a harder time with those caps...getting them off clean and installing OK?

Yes, the caps around the CPU are much tougher to get out due to the big CPU VCC copper planes on the board.
That said, I was actually able to do quite a few of these boards (3 or 4 I think) with only a cheapo 35W iron. They key here is that I didn't clean the solder from the holes after removing the old caps. Instead, I just "walked out" the old caps and put the new ones in the same way (with pre-cut leads, of course). Also used lots of flux in the process. In fact, I wouldn't have been able to do any of the caps on these boards with the 35W iron if I didn't use flux.

With my 75W temp-regulated station, I had no problem working those caps out, though. 350C was enough to quickly melt the solder.

Now I'm having issues re-soldering the new one's in (one leg). I even went to the extent to get a chisel tip for my iron; instead of my cone shape; which work well for the other caps so far.

Like I mentioned above, I used the "walk" method to put the new caps back in.

Basically, once I take a cap out using that method, I then take a needle (doesn't have to be too fine or anything) and use it to push some of the solder out from the component side - that is, I heat each solder hole one at a time (from the bottom side of the board) while pushing on the other (top side of the board) with the needle. The needle need not go all the way through the board - just a millimeter or two is enough. Once you have cleared that much solder, you can then line the cap with the pre-cut leads on the partially cleared holes and use the "walk" method again to put back the new cap.

It's not a very efficient method, but it works. I'm actually pretty quick with it now since I've done it quite a few times.

I'm using a Weller 40 watt iron; did you have to use a better "station" to do those? I'm wondering if my iron just isn't good enough for those caps and where they're located? I just don't like the looks of my solder joints on these cap compared to the others I've done.

Your iron is okay, but you will probably have a similar experience to mine with the 35W iron. A more powerful iron will definitely make the job much easier. A 75W temp-regulated station like mine is more that enough, though. So you will probably do fine with a 50 to 60W temp-regulated station. If you don't want to spend that much money on a temp-regulated station, then a cheap 60W iron with a chisel tip should work fine too.

Here's a couple of pictures...is it as bad as I think?

Your joints (the ground-side of the cap, that is) are a bit rough but still acceptable.
I'm actually very surprised with your joints on the (+) side of the caps - they look quite smooth. For me, it was those that were giving me the problems. The ground-side joints were easy - just let the iron heat up quite well, add some flux on the joint and then reheat with the iron for a second.