Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

[hms1018]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

Hello Everyone!

Noobie here. I just Googled and came across your site which is very informative. I am trying to understand some things and know a little about others. I have just replaced my 2 bad caps "after over a year after taking it apart". I am attaching pics to figure out the dark spots on the back of the PSU, and I need to know exactly how the 4 (Pink and white)cords attach to the monitor into the other 4 cords wrapped in black tape.

[PlainBill]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

Hello Everyone!

Noobie here. I just Googled and came across your site which is very informative. I am trying to understand some things and know a little about others. I have just replaced my 2 bad caps "after over a year after taking it apart". I am attaching pics to figure out the dark spots on the back of the PSU, and I need to know exactly how the 4 (Pink and white)cords attach to the monitor into the other 4 cords wrapped in black tape.

Dark spots: This is the AC input to the bridge rectifier. The only idea I have is that poor solder joints were overheating. I'd remove the old solder and resolder.

Four cords: They go back togetherlike they were originally. You didn't label them?

OK!! OK!!! When the power supply is sitting on the back of the panel, the pair from the top of the monitor go to the pair from the top of the power supply. It doesn't matter which way the two pairs go together.

PlainBill

[hms1018]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

@ PlainBill
Thanks a lot. Works like a charm.

[mack505]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

Hi, my monitor would not power up at all, no indicator lights at all. Just prior to that, the led indicator would blink really slow interval, no display.

I seem to have the bulging C551 and C552. Start by replacing these?

Also, before I was just using the VGA as the DVI had a red tint to it. By the time I called support, I was out of warranty. Any ideas on that, now that I have it open?

Many thanks in advance!

[PlainBill]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

Hi, my monitor would not power up at all, no indicator lights at all. Just prior to that, the led indicator would blink really slow interval, no display.

I seem to have the bulging C551 and C552. Start by replacing these?

Also, before I was just using the VGA as the DVI had a red tint to it. By the time I called support, I was out of warranty. Any ideas on that, now that I have it open?

Many thanks in advance!

The recommendation is to replace all the electrolytic caps with the possible exception of the large (100uF, 450 volt) one. Use low ESR name brand caps, not junk from Radio Shack.

A red tint is often the result of failing CCFLs, but since it only appears on the DVI input, that is probably not the issue in your case. Have you tried adjusting the tint using the menu?

PlainBill

[mack505]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

The recommendation is to replace all the electrolytic caps with the possible exception of the large (100uF, 450 volt) one. Use low ESR name brand caps, not junk from Radio Shack.

A red tint is often the result of failing CCFLs, but since it only appears on the DVI input, that is probably not the issue in your case. Have you tried adjusting the tint using the menu?

PlainBill

Hi PlainBill, thanks for your response. I am planing on P12389-ND from Digikey. Is it just those 4? C551, C552, C554, and C664?

I could not correct the red tint with adjustments. It was almost as if you had 2 of the 3 cables plugged in on a component video connection, like that. VGA worked fine though.

[PlainBill]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

Hi PlainBill, thanks for your response. I am planing on P12389-ND from Digikey. Is it just those 4? C551, C552, C554, and C664?

I could not correct the red tint with adjustments. It was almost as if you had 2 of the 3 cables plugged in on a component video connection, like that. VGA worked fine though.

There are three more that you are ignoring. The small one next to the SMPs transformer is very important. If it fails, the power supply won't start. And in that location it gets plenty of heat. There are two for the inverter that should also be replaced.

PlainBill

[mack505]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

There are three more that you are ignoring. The small one next to the SMPs transformer is very important. If it fails, the power supply won't start. And in that location it gets plenty of heat. There are two for the inverter that should also be replaced.

PlainBill

Thanks Bill, do you know how the other 3 are labeled? As C551, etc are?

[jetadm123]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

Thanks Bill, do you know how the other 3 are labeled? As C551, etc are?

Take look at post #1 of this thread.

[PlainBill]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

Thanks Bill, do you know how the other 3 are labeled? As C551, etc are?

No. Here is my philosophy.

Let's take an extremely simple case. Take a monitor off the shelf, do a quick test, it doesn't work. Open it up, notice one cap is bulging. Replace the cap, test the monitor, it works, put the monitor together again. Elapsed time - 1 hour and $1.00 of parts.

Now most of the caps came from the same company, or at least are of the same quality, and have been exposed to the same temperatures and similar stress. Replacing all of the caps would have taken an additional half hour, and an additional $5 in parts.

Some of the monitors I repair are given to family members, but most are sold. Let's take the best case - I give one to my 12 year old Granddaughter. Now she's a bright young lady, she knows Grandpa makes mistakes. If the monitor dies in the next year or two she would politely ask me to fix it when I got a chance. Which means I would make it a priority job. And I would be looking at another hour long job to replace the next cap that died.

A much worse case is if I had sold the monitor. Even with an ESR meter, I can't tell how long a cap is going to last. In particular, the small 22 - 68uF startup cap will fail without warning or visible signs. Now if a monitor I sold in the past month dies, I have a very unhappy customer who at best will insist I repair it FAST, and will probably badmouth me at every opportunity.

In either case, it's worth half an hour of extra work and $5 in parts to make sure it's fixed the first time.

Note the critical parameters - capacity, voltage, diameter, and height and I'll recommend suitable replacements.

PlainBill

[FIXITNOW]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

i will second that PlainBill
the pile of items i have had come my way with the words (i had it fixed a few weeks ago at ******* repair shop) can you do a better job ??
only to open it up and see the previous repair had done only a basic repair
not even a reflow of the common d/j areas
its sloppy if you want repeat work do a proper job

[mack505]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

No. Here is my philosophy.

Let's take an extremely simple case. Take a monitor off the shelf, do a quick test, it doesn't work. Open it up, notice one cap is bulging. Replace the cap, test the monitor, it works, put the monitor together again. Elapsed time - 1 hour and $1.00 of parts.

Now most of the caps came from the same company, or at least are of the same quality, and have been exposed to the same temperatures and similar stress. Replacing all of the caps would have taken an additional half hour, and an additional $5 in parts.

Some of the monitors I repair are given to family members, but most are sold. Let's take the best case - I give one to my 12 year old Granddaughter. Now she's a bright young lady, she knows Grandpa makes mistakes. If the monitor dies in the next year or two she would politely ask me to fix it when I got a chance. Which means I would make it a priority job. And I would be looking at another hour long job to replace the next cap that died.

A much worse case is if I had sold the monitor. Even with an ESR meter, I can't tell how long a cap is going to last. In particular, the small 22 - 68uF startup cap will fail without warning or visible signs. Now if a monitor I sold in the past month dies, I have a very unhappy customer who at best will insist I repair it FAST, and will probably badmouth me at every opportunity.

In either case, it's worth half an hour of extra work and $5 in parts to make sure it's fixed the first time.

Note the critical parameters - capacity, voltage, diameter, and height and I'll recommend suitable replacements.

PlainBill

1 million thanks! I am back up and running after replacing the 7 capacitors, under $5 total.

The 7 items from Digikey were:
1 - 493-1575-ND
2 - P12366-ND
4 - P12389-ND

[severach]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

Connector CN501
1,2,3 5v
4,5,6 Ground
7 CCFL control
8 CCFL control
9,10 12v

U1: Beyond Innovation BI3101A Technology dual PWM CCFL Controller
U220: System General SG6841SZ PWM C114:160v/320v -> Q100 -> T100 -> D660:12v, D550:5v
Q100: Fuji 2SK3502 N-MOSFET
C114: Taicon AQ 100uf 400v WV=160v/320v 13x31
C210: CapXon GL 33uf 35v 5x10
U300: Sharp PC817 Optoisolator
U310: KIA431A Shunt Regulator
C1, C661: Taicon HF 1000uf 16v 10x20
F550: Fuse 5A 250v
D660: ST STPS20H100CT dual diode 100V power Schottky rectifier
D550: ST STPS2045CT dual diode 45V power Schottky rectifier
ZD661: 1N4??? Zener Diode
D114: ?N539? Diode
D220: Taiwan Semiconductor FR1? Diode
Q12A, Q11A, Q12B, Q11B: Hi-Sincerity HSD965 Transistor
T1A, T1B: SPI 8TC00291 CCFL Transformer
L1A, L1B: 8LR7020 Inductor
D1A, D1B: SS24 SMD Diode

I fixed this and it failed within 3 months after service #1 when a Nichicon PM at C551 reached 49 ohms ESR. On service #2 I had hoped to increase reliability by using some higher endurance caps. I left a cheapo in.

C664: Rubycon ZL 680uf 16v 8x20
C552: LTec LZP 470uf 10v 8x12
C551: Panasonic HFA 680uf 10v 8x15
C554: UCC LXY 680uf 10v 8x18

D550:5v -> C552,C551 -> L550 -> C554 -> F550
D660:12v -> C661 -> L1 -> C1
D660:12v -> C661 -> L560 -> C664

Here comes service #3. It's my monitor so the many service attempts is educational and not a problem. This time I was using it when I heard the cap pop. The monitor continued to work. I quickly open it up to see that the Ltec C552 has blown. Better caps are in parallel which allowed the monitor to continue working. Heat sink HS550 and all the caps inside it were very hot which is why this monitor eats weak caps faster than your average electronic oven. Only very high endurance caps should be used. Up to 20mm caps will fit. Taller caps usually are higher endurance so the taller the better. Here are some high endurance caps.

3000 hours 8mm Rubycon ZL
4000 hours 8mm Rubycon YXG
5000 hours 8mm UCC LXY
6000 hours 8mm 6.3v UCC KY
2000 hours 8mm Panasonic FC
2-3000 hours Panasonic FJ (based on height)
3000 hours 8mm Panasonic FK
3000 hours 8x15 Panasonic FM
4000 hours 8x20 Panasonic FM
6000 hours 8x11.5 Panasonic FR
8000 hours 8x15 Panasonic FR
9000 hours 8x20 Panasonic FR

No more Mr Nice Guy. The other caps are fine. For the blown cheapo in goes the toughest thing I have. Maybe it will last this time.

C552: UCC LXY 680uf 10v

[hms1018]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

Okay, now I fixed it in June and now I have vertical colored lines running up the monitor(looks like an OLD tv) and its is flickering, what could now be the problem?

[percocetpengy]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

Hi guys, I'm trying to fix this monitor after 7 years of faithful service.
I have the problem shown in the original post of bumped caps.
I've tried desoldering the caps, but the solder just wont flow, I guess I'm not used to this type of solder, as I've only used Tin based solder.
Can anyone confirm that this is lead based solder?
If so what suggestions do you have for me to remove the caps?

[jetadm123]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

Hi guys, I'm trying to fix this monitor after 7 years of faithful service.
I have the problem shown in the original post of bumped caps.
I've tried desoldering the caps, but the solder just wont flow, I guess I'm not used to this type of solder, as I've only used Tin based solder.
Can anyone confirm that this is lead based solder?
If so what suggestions do you have for me to remove the caps?

It's probably lead free solder, which has a higher melting point. A 30W soldering will work, but if you're having that much trouble, you might want to move up to a 40W iron. Desoldering braid (solder wick) will also help.

[mockingbird]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

When you apply a little lead to tin solder, you convert "lead-free" to leaded. It's not the precise mix, but the way metallurgy works, a little bit of a foreign metal can drastically change the properties of the main metal. So solder a little rosin core 60/40 into it and it will then flow.

[severach]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

The solder has to melt first before the lead mixes to adjust the melting point.

An iron against solid solder conducts heat poorly so very little heat goes into the joint. Once a small part liquifies it attaches and wraps around the iron tip which greatly increases heat conduction. The stored heat in the tip quickly rushes into the joint and melts the rest.

Using lead solder with a low wattage makes the initial melt easy. Once mixed the joint is easy to melt from then on.

Flux helps too.

[bhelton26]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

New at this also...

My caps are poped up also. Can I use a 470uF cap thats is 35v to replace C551 and C552?

[bhelton26]

Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD

UPDATE....
Did some reading and found that 35v was fine. Monitor works like a camp now. Thanks for all your posts and help.