HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    Originally posted by jetadm123
    What series are the Rubycon's? It will be a 2-3 letter designator stamped on the cap. Something like: YXG, ZL, ZLH, etc.
    like jetadm123 asked.
    Add some solder to the gray caps,they have a tendency to come loose.

    Leave a comment:


  • krantz
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    You mean what uF and V-capacaty?

    I never desoldered the gray box type caps but the 5707's. Only the one in the picture to know what it was.

    Leave a comment:


  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    What were tge series of the start up caps?
    Did you re-solder the gray box type caps by the 5707 transistors

    Leave a comment:


  • krantz
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    Originally posted by alexanna
    I have had transistors that did not show a short,cause the power supply to shut down.
    Without removing the test CCFL from your other monitor.
    Unplug all of the CCFLs from the 19" you are working on.
    Plug in your test ccfl into one connector on the inverter on the 19", power the monitor on.
    Dose the back light and PLED still flash?
    Repeat this with the other 3 CCFL connectors,Dose anything appear different?
    I tried it. At first I used just one connector from the CCFL and it worked. Tried two, worked. Tried three, worked. Tried four, it started flashing on and off but the power switch LED did not flash (restart). Tried it again and now the test-CCFL's stay on and the power switch isnt restarting.

    Tried it again after having the power cord unplugged - the CCFL's and power-switch LED is restarting again. Caps anyway?

    Leave a comment:


  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    I have had transistors that did not show a short,cause the power supply to shut down.
    Without removing the test CCFL from your other monitor.
    Unplug all of the CCFLs from the 19" you are working on.
    Plug in your test ccfl into one connector on the inverter on the 19", power the monitor on.
    Dose the back light and PLED still flash?
    Repeat this with the other 3 CCFL connectors,Dose anything appear different?

    Leave a comment:


  • jetadm123
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    Originally posted by krantz
    All the caps i replaced to are Rubycon.
    What series are the Rubycon's? It will be a 2-3 letter designator stamped on the cap. Something like: YXG, ZL, ZLH, etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • krantz
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    No, I dont.

    I have a lcd monitor that has a CCFL in it but can I get it out to test the board with it?

    Leave a comment:


  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    The startup cap is critical to have the correct series.
    You look to have somewhat of a difficult monitor to repair.
    Do you have a good CCFL that is not installed in a monitor panel?

    Leave a comment:


  • krantz
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    All the caps i replaced to are Rubycon.

    Leave a comment:


  • jetadm123
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    Originally posted by krantz
    The caps (two battery shaped) at the ic?

    Or the two blue ones at the power-connector?

    Updated: Electrolytic capacitors, yeah. Like I said. I changed them all.
    I guess I need to wait for my new multimeter (Fluke 179) so that I can check the capacitors with that. Maybe they're defective?
    I think folks may have missed it when you initially said that you had already changed all the caps (post #56) except for the large 450V one. Perhaps the question that should be asked is: what brand/series caps did you replace the original caps with?

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    Originally posted by krantz
    The caps (two battery shaped) at the ic?

    Or the two blue ones at the power-connector?
    The two circled in red. One of those is the start-up cap. If it fails completely you will not have any power at all. If it is marginal (capacitance is seriously reduced) the power supply will start and appear to work normally, but will fail under full load - such as when the inverter starts.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • krantz
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    Originally posted by alexanna
    No the small aluminum caps just above the gray one in the first photo.
    The caps (two battery shaped) at the ic?

    Or the two blue ones at the power-connector?

    Updated: Electrolytic capacitors, yeah. Like I said. I changed them all.
    I guess I need to wait for my new multimeter (Fluke 179) so that I can check the capacitors with that. Maybe they're defective?
    Attached Files
    Last edited by krantz; 11-07-2011, 05:55 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    No the small aluminum caps just above the gray one in the first photo.

    Leave a comment:


  • krantz
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    You mean the two grayish rectangular components at the power connector and the two at the transistors?

    Refer to attachment pictures.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    It appears the power supply is shutting down under a load, reinstall the inverter fuse, and try replacing any start up caps. These are usually around 50v and below 47uf

    Leave a comment:


  • krantz
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    Originally posted by alexanna
    If I am understanding things correctly, When you removed the fuse for the inverter you were able to get normal operation of the front power switch [you could turn it on and off], and you can see a power light that indicates you are receiving a signal?
    You have used your ohmmeter on the 200 ohm scale,[The 200 ohm scale is important] and you are not seeing a very low ohm reading between any of the pins on the transistors or FETs?
    That is correct. But when I removed the fuse I didnt get a picture or the backlight didnt power on. (?)

    Leave a comment:


  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    Originally posted by krantz
    Ah, sorry.

    I get a picture from the computer with working backlights for about a second, then the screen restarts in an continous loop. Also the power-on-board on the front of the LCD restarts with the green LED lighting on and off at the restarts.
    If I am understanding things correctly, When you removed the fuse for the inverter you were able to get normal operation of the front power switch [you could turn it on and off], and you can see a power light that indicates you are receiving a signal?
    You have used your ohmmeter on the 200 ohm scale,[The 200 ohm scale is important] and you are not seeing a very low ohm reading between any of the pins on the transistors or FETs?

    Leave a comment:


  • krantz
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    Ah, sorry.

    I get a picture from the computer with working backlights for about a second, then the screen restarts in an continous loop. Also the power-on-board on the front of the LCD restarts with the green LED lighting on and off at the restarts.

    Leave a comment:


  • retiredcaps
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    Originally posted by retiredcaps
    In addition, can you just restate what the latest activity of the power LED and screen is? Please also connect a working computer to the LCD to view your desktop.
    And what about the above? What are the current symptoms?

    Leave a comment:


  • krantz
    replied
    Re: HP 1955 Monitor Repair Guide

    Restatement: I have a 1955 that I am trying to get working. I have changed all the caps except for the 150uF 450v. I cant see any blown FET's or anything else that might be shorted. What could it be?

    Plus I found out that there are two more caps on the power board where the C5707's are and two more at the power-connector. The grayish ones.

    I have desoldered the inverter fuse 5A 125V, measured it and it has very low resistance (0.4 ohms).

    I have measured the 4431 FET's, the signaling transistors (no shorts, like you know), the four transformers near the C5707 transistors, the diods on the top surface with resistance and diod settings on the multimeter.

    Leave a comment:

Related Topics

Collapse

  • DanPoka
    Guide me through repairing a Dell p2210f LCD ccfl backlight monitor
    by DanPoka
    I bought this p2210f dell monitor to fix. Schematic is the same as p2210.
    Behaviour is that monitors comes on but then backlight switches off almost instantly. If I look with flashlight I can still find the "No signal message". So definitely a backlight issue. Trying to advance the issue I proved that the protection circuit is switching off the backlight by shorting out C3 and resistor to disable the INL chip then re enable by removing the short.
    This is where it gets interesting. When I disassembled the monitor to solder leads on c3 capacitor I noticed the backlight flickered...
    02-15-2025, 05:05 AM
  • wattage
    AOC AG493UCX 49-inch monitor - Firmware request
    by wattage
    Hello Badcaps Community,

    I purchased a preowned AOC monitor that is not working and out of warranty. It was sold as not working. I am looking for guidance on self-repair. In particular, I am after the firmware for the monitor. At the end, I have included monitor model information and links to pics and vids of the issue.

    The problem is that it will not display a picture on any of its inputs. And the on-screen menu does not appear. The power button works properly. It powers on with the remote as well. But the on-screen menu does not appear, even when not connected to any...
    07-13-2025, 04:41 PM
  • ant3202
    HP 27es - LED monitor - Monitor Flashing On - Off
    by ant3202
    Hi Everyone

    Lately I am experiencing the deja-vu incident on one of the led monitor like this.
    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...lashing-on-off

    The monitor is HP 27es LED Monitor
    https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Deskto...e/td-p/6804692

    The monitor will randomly blackout and display no signal and will recover again.
    Sometimes need to power and off again to restore the display but...
    03-20-2025, 07:30 PM
  • Rick_1234
    LG 23MP55HQ LED Monitor turns off after a few seconds or flickers.
    by Rick_1234
    Good evening, gentlemen.

    I have a problem with my monitor. It turns off after a few seconds or flickers. Shining a flashlight on the screen doesn't show any image, so I guess it's not the "2 seconds to dark" I read in the forum.

    To turn it back on, I have to press the power button twice. Then after a few seconds it turns off again or flickers. See video.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L6S...ew?usp=sharing


    Things I tried

    - Bought a new AC adapter thinking that was the problem but the problem...
    06-22-2024, 04:44 PM
  • corrize
    A funny fuse story – Lumix LX100 II
    by corrize
    Hello, I disassembled this dead camera, and found this WTF… Two fuses soldered one above the other !
    I was pretty sure nobody touched it before, but that can't be from factory. There is flux, and capacitor is probably missing.
    The other weird thing : the fuses are « G » fuse : (0.75A – 8V), seems very low. The original fuse should be « O » : (32V 2,5A).
    There is « O » mark beside. All fuses have the same mark letter on main board. So, I can deduce it's a « O » fuse.
    And this correspond to the issus I saw : when I plug the battery, I measure the voltage dropping...
    10-19-2023, 09:58 AM
  • Loading...
  • No more items.
Working...