vp2130b cap help

[retiredcaps]

Re: vp2130b cap help

Actually, I meant to say inspect all boards for poor solder joints, not just the inverter board.

[retiredcaps]

Re: vp2130b cap help

I've replaced all the caps on the power + invertor boards and the 1000uF one on the main board. I didn't break it (yay), but it's still showing the same flickery tearing problem.

Well you HAD to replace those caps anyway. They were obviously bad. So there is no lost time or money in changing those caps out.

I've noticed that the flickering/tearing depends on what's on the screen. It seems to not like white (if I have a full black screen it's ok, but a full white screen will flicker and tear)

AFAIK, white uses the most power and black uses the least.

I guess I should try replacing some of the other caps on the main board? I don't really want to spend hours replacing them all, any suggestions on which I should try first?

Since there are many experienced members here, each one has their own methods on where to start.

If it were me, I would leave all the caps on the logic board alone until last. Others might have different opinions.

I would try

1) inspecting the inverter board for poor solder joints and resolder anything that looks remotely suspicious. Pay attention to the transformers and the transistors. I have a cheap 10x magnifier.

2) run a fan blowing across the back to see if the white screen makes the screen flicker. This will help determine if it is heat related. You might want to run this test with the back cover on and then off to get better air flow.

Questions.

1) Are you the original owner? If yes, when was this monitor made/purchased. How hours a day is it on? Do you turn it off or use a screen saver?

2) In the last month, do you remember seeing any pinkish or redish hues on your monitor?

Post clear focused pictures AFTER reading

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1868

Please do not post pictures inline.

Take your boards to a window on a sunny day, turn flash off, and use macro mode. Take a top down view of all your boards (front and back). Make sure the photo is legible so that we can read the PCB printing clearly. A shutter speed of 1/125 or faster will produce nice clear focus pictures. Try to get a photo that is 2000x2000 resolution or as close as possible.

Here is an example of the pictures we want.

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...94&postcount=1

[zuber_dave]

Re: vp2130b cap help

I've replaced all the caps on the power + invertor boards and the 1000uF one on the main board. I didn't break it (yay), but it's still showing the same flickery tearing problem.

I've noticed that the flickering/tearing depends on what's on the screen. It seems to not like white (if I have a full black screen it's ok, but a full white screen will flicker and tear)

I guess I should try replacing some of the other caps on the main board? I don't really want to spend hours replacing them all, any suggestions on which I should try first?

[lucky13]

Re: vp2130b cap help

zuber_dave,

AFter you got all your caps, I suggest you do your repair in stages. Don't go change all the caps at once. Otherwise, when it doesn't work at all afterwards, it would be difficult to figure out what went wrong during surgery.

Start with the big cap on the p/s.

Then do the 1000uF & 330uF on the main board.

Since you do get a pix, leave the ones on the inverter board last (they will never cause tearing problem).

Good Luck.

[retiredcaps]

Re: vp2130b cap help

Thanks for the replies guys!

I think I'm going to go with retiredcaps' advice and replace all the caps just to be on the safe side...

Wow, that is a lot of caps on the logic board. I hope you have good solder iron and good at soldering!

[zuber_dave]

Re: vp2130b cap help

Thanks for the replies guys!

I think I'm going to go with retiredcaps' advice and replace all the caps just to be on the safe side...

On the power supply board, there are:
- 400V 150uF, Taicon something. Digi-key 565-1471-ND looks good to me (voltage, capacitance, temp rating match. A little longer than the taicon one, but that doesn't look like it should be a problem)
- 25V 1000uF, Rubycon ZLH. Ripple 2250, ESR 0.018. 10x23mm. Digi-key 565-1681-ND has 2360 ripple, 0.021 ESR, slightly fatter
- 50V 22uF, Ltec LZG. Ripple 190, ESR 0.68. 5x11mm. Digi-key 565-1703-ND has 238 ripple, 0.34 ESR, same size
- 50V 47uF, Ltec LZG. Ripple 272, ESR 0.395. 6.3x11mm. Digi-key 493-1896-ND has 300 ripple, 0.43 ESR, same size
- 16V 470uF, Ltec LZG. Ripple ~800, ESR ~0.1. 8x15mm. Digi-key 565-1524-ND has 840 ripple, 0.087 ESR, same size
- 25V 220uF, Taicon PW? Digi-key 565-1674-ND recommended by endevite
- 16V (I think) 1000uF, Ltec LZG. Ripple ~1400, ESR 0.046. 10x20mm. Digi-key 565-1528-ND has 1400 ripple, 0.046 ESR, same size
I've attached a pic of the 4 that weren't visible in the original pic. I bunged up the 2 small blurry ones in the original pic when trying to pry up the big one so I could read the text on the bottom. Woops :P

On the invertor board, there are just the 3 35V 180uF Capxon GF ones. 2 * 565-1602-ND and 2 * 565-1603-ND recommended by endevite

On the main board (see pic):
- 3 * 16V 330uF, Teapo SS? (top left). Can't find specs online, I would guess 565-1522-ND
- 6.3V 1000uF, Teapo SM? (green one in top left). Again, can't find specs, 565-1486-ND?
- loads of smaller ones, should I replace these?

I don't really care about the USB board as I don't use the USB stuff on the monitor...

lucky13: I don't have a meter, though I really should get one. Kinda worried I'd zap myself if I started poking around while it was turned on tho

[jetadm123]

Re: vp2130b cap help

It doesn't look too healthy. Although the large caps rarely fail, this one is the exception. Go to digikey.com and type in the part # 493-2074-ND. It's a Nichicon PW series cap rated @ 100uf 450V. Compare the length and diameter to make sure it will fit. As a matter of fact, order all your caps from digikey. Panasonic FM series would be a good choice. Select USPS First Class shipping for the best rate.

Oops! Disregard what I said. I looked up the wrong value. 100uf vs 150uf.

[lucky13]

Re: vp2130b cap help

zuber_dave,

Welcome to Badcaps forum.

Do you have a meter to check the voltage on the big cap when it is live?

I have yet to see a bad 150uf/400v cap on this series (yours might be the 1st).

You might want to post more pictures from the p/s so we can tell you if more caps need to be changed perhaps.

[momaka]

Re: vp2130b cap help

The big 400v cap doesn't have to be low ESR because it isn't under much stress. For that matter you can use even an 85 degree Celsius rated cap (although it would be better if you can find a 105C one), just make sure the voltage, capacitance, and size all match.

[retiredcaps]

Re: vp2130b cap help

but I don't know about the big one. Should I replace it? If so, what with? The writing on it says TAICON / C0533(M) / 105oC(AQ)P / 400V 150uF. I can't find the relevant stuff on the Taicon site

I took a quick look at

http://www.taicon.com.tw/product/product_index.htm

and couldn't find anything. C0533 means the cap is made in 2005, 33 week. I believe (M) means +/- 20% tolerance of the capacitance. AQ might designate the series, but I don't see AQ in their product catalog. It could be an obsolete series now?

I would replace the big one in addition to ALL the caps (big or small) given how many caps are bad and the age of the monitor (5+ years). If you use quality low ESR caps, you should get another 5+ years use.

Caps do not have to be bulged in order to be bad. They can have high ESR (ohms) or be out of tolerance. For example a cap can measure 8 ohm ESR which is really high whereas a good one might measure 0.2. A 1000uF cap might meausre 220uF which is way out of tolerance.

[jetadm123]

Re: vp2130b cap help

Hello folks

I also have a broken vp2130b. The problem is sort of like Splinter's: it will turn on fine but after a couple of minutes the display will start to flicker and tear (not really sure how to describe it -- it looks like a bad signal or something) then go off.

I opened it up and found some obviously bad caps:
- The CapXon ones on the invertor board (or at least I gather that's what it's called from reading this thread) -- two are bulging, one has blown out the bung on the bottom
- The green 1000uF one on the main board is bulging
- The big one on the power board has some stuff leaking out by the leg (at least I assume this is bad, see attached pic)

I think there's enough info in this thread for me to go and replace the caps on the main and invertor boards, but I don't know about the big one. Should I replace it? If so, what with? The writing on it says TAICON / C0533(M) / 105oC(AQ)P / 400V 150uF. I can't find the relevant stuff on the Taicon site

btw Thanks to all for the great thread + forum!

It doesn't look too healthy. Although the large caps rarely fail, this one is the exception. Go to digikey.com and type in the part # 493-2074-ND. It's a Nichicon PW series cap rated @ 100uf 450V. Compare the length and diameter to make sure it will fit. As a matter of fact, order all your caps from digikey. Panasonic FM series would be a good choice. Select USPS First Class shipping for the best rate.

[zuber_dave]

Re: vp2130b cap help

Hello folks

I also have a broken vp2130b. The problem is sort of like Splinter's: it will turn on fine but after a couple of minutes the display will start to flicker and tear (not really sure how to describe it -- it looks like a bad signal or something) then go off.

I opened it up and found some obviously bad caps:
- The CapXon ones on the invertor board (or at least I gather that's what it's called from reading this thread) -- two are bulging, one has blown out the bung on the bottom
- The green 1000uF one on the main board is bulging
- The big one on the power board has some stuff leaking out by the leg (at least I assume this is bad, see attached pic)

I think there's enough info in this thread for me to go and replace the caps on the main and invertor boards, but I don't know about the big one. Should I replace it? If so, what with? The writing on it says TAICON / C0533(M) / 105oC(AQ)P / 400V 150uF. I can't find the relevant stuff on the Taicon site

btw Thanks to all for the great thread + forum!

[Splinter]

Re: vp2130b cap help

You are very welcome.

Okay, its now some three weeks since I replaced the red ringed caps on the logic board of my VP2130b display. It's running fine so have decided to replace the back cover. I guess this will tend to raise the temperature of the three boards by a few degrees. I'll see how it performs over the next month.

Once again, thanks to all at Badcaps for help in understanding and fixing the problem.

Splinter

[lucky13]

Re: vp2130b cap help

You are very welcome.

[Splinter]

Re: vp2130b cap help

Splinter,

I beleive your problem has more to do with the caps on the Main Board (the green one).

Replace the red circled ones. If that doesn't fix it, replace the purple cicrled ones.

lucky13, I got the caps and have replaced the ones you circled in red. I now have the display running without the rear cover in place so that it won't have to be removed if I have to replace the purple circled ones as well. So far, after a week of use, the "off/on" problem has not reoccurred, so it's looking hopeful that the new caps have fixed the problem. Thanks for your timely advice!

Splinter

[rachael7]

Re: vp2130b cap help

Thank ya, I figured I would write a bit of a small guide since this one was a bit of a pain to work on. ;p

Thank you so much for doing this! I replaced all the caps, per your instructions, and also the main filter cap on the power supply board, and my VP2130b came back to life! Awesome! Finally, I can actually fix a dead electronic device instead of throwing it away! Yay!

[Splinter]

Re: vp2130b cap help

Splinter,

I beleive your problem has more to do with the caps on the Main Board (the green one).

Replace the red circled ones. If that doesn't fix it, replace the purple cicrled ones.

lucky13, thanks for your advice. I'll order the caps you have highlighted with those for the power board.

splinter

[lucky13]

Re: vp2130b cap help

Splinter,

I beleive your problem has more to do with the caps on the Main Board (the green one).

Replace the red circled ones. If that doesn't fix it, replace the purple cicrled ones.

[el3ctroded]

Re: vp2130b cap help

Yes. Ripple current handling has a lot to do with the heat dissipation capabilities of the cap, and for caps to dissipate more heat, they have to be physically bigger.

[Splinter]

Re: vp2130b cap help

What do you mean "High or low ripple level"? For caps, a higher ripple current rating is good, it means it can handle more ripple current. The higher the rating, usually = larger size caps.

Thanks el3ctroded, I meant ripple current and that's just the answer I was looking for. If I'm understanding you correctly, for any given uF/V spec, as the ripple current rating goes up, so typically does the caps physical size.

Splinter