I have two dclcd 19" lcd monitors and one of them died a few months back. I was going to throw it out, but i decided to try to fix it. I did some research online and found that the capacitors are typically the problem, so that is why i am here.
The first thing i did was switch out the entire inverter board for the one in my monitor which already works. Once the working inverter board was put in, the broken monitor worked again - i therefore know the problem is on this board somewhere!.
The board is loaded with elite caps which i guess can go bad.
I ordered 5 caps from digikey (all exact voltage, uf specs as the ones i replaced) in hope that it would be on of the 5 larger caps. I swapped them in with no luck. I then got determined and swapped the other caps between my working and broken board. The board which was originally working still works, and the broken one is still broken.
i swapped all of the caps with the red x's on it.
What else should i do? I'm out of time today, but maybe you guys can give me some guidance
There was a question about the ohm reading you get when you connect the leads of the volt ohm meter together.
Try another set of leads see if you get closer to 0ohms.
post #46 and #58 have not been yet answered by wenter. Hard to help when wenter won't or can't provide the information.
Re: Need help DCLCD 19" LCD Monitor - I already replaced caps
Well I had no intention of killing this thread but it looks like I did a very good job.
It sounds like you may unfamiliar with some of your volt ohm meter readings, And I was just trying to suggest maybe you confused milivolts with volts and ohms with k ohms or m ohms.
You said that you were seeing 5v on one pin of the logic board so to me it sounded like that dual diode was working.
I was really hoping someone would answer if there is a good way to test these.
I guess one good thing is the diode is probably not very costly, And sometimes you may have to install a known part to rule it out.
There was a question about the ohm reading you get when you connect the leads of the volt ohm meter together.
Try another set of leads see if you get closer to 0ohms.
.I really wish I could help more but I am trying to learn also.
Al.
I had Sceptre X9G Komodo IV same problem, when monitor had power the powerlight blinking about 5min & monitor turn on ok long the had 110 VAC hook up the monitor, if I'm disconnect power had go same steps above again
I open can't find any caps bad but replace all but still same problem (maybe some transitor bad?)
any one know how to fix this problem?
Thanks
What caps (brand and series) did you use as replacements? Also, there are one or two small (less than 100uF) caps near the main transformer. Did you replace them?
Re: Need help DCLCD 19" LCD Monitor - I already replaced caps
I had Sceptre X9G Komodo IV same problem, when monitor had power the powerlight blinking about 5min & monitor turn on ok long the had 110 VAC hook up the monitor, if I'm disconnect power had go same steps above again
I open can't find any caps bad but replace all but still same problem (maybe some transitor bad?)
any one know how to fix this problem?
Thanks
Re: Need help DCLCD 19" LCD Monitor - I already replaced caps
Well I have some questions.
My neck is on the chopping block, so at any time chop if need be.
The reading posted for both diodes are very similar.
116.6 almost has to be 116.600 ohms and 92.2 would be 92.200 ohms
On the diode tests 233 has to be 233mv or .233v and 174 most likely is .174v
Measuring a good diode here. I am measuring pos on #1 and neg on #2, I read .220v
With pos lead on # 3 and neg lead on#2 again right at .220v.And when measuring pos to #2 neg#3 the reading is ol and #2 to#1 is ol.And #1 to #3 are open both ways.
Is the .174v to low of a reading on the one diode?And is that a valid test?
At least the diode for the 5v rail is good,. From what I have read when these diodes fail you can usually see damage is that correct.
In a earlier post good quliaty photo were requested are the photos attached of good enough quilaty to be able to trace circuts?
Well is my neck still attached?
Al
0 = zero. 0L means infinity. Different multimeters may have different ways of displaying infinity or out of range.
Also for the diode measurements, do you mean 0.233 or 233?
116.6 and 92.2 ohms look bad to me.
I have a digital multimeter and for normal # it shows the value on the right side of display. When there is no value it shows 1 on the left side. (maybe it's considered I for infinity )
On diod measurement it was 233 and 174.
Do you think I need to replace those diods? What is the good source of them?
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