LG W2234S Repair Help...

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • docksteaderluke
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    I'm sourcing some caps right now. I'll give some of your other suggestions a try when I get home from work.

    When rigging a resistance load (to the inverter outputs I'm assuming) what sort of resistance is needed?

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Originally posted by docksteaderluke
    Here's my hookup:
    One thought. I'm not clear on the usual voltage range on the brightness control. A few ideas.

    1. On the brightness voltage divider, remove the resistor going to + 5V, this should pull the input down close to 0 V, which I think is maximum brightness.

    2. Vary the voltage to the brightness control input.

    3. Check the voltage at the brightness control input of a working monitor.

    4. It's time to rig a resistance load and see if the power supply is stable.

    5. Just go ahead and replace all the caps in the power supply.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • docksteaderluke
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Here's my hookup:
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Another idea - check the voltages with this rig hooked up and see if they are stable.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • docksteaderluke
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Yes... the CCFLs are connected to the inverter outputs.

    I'll check the grounding when I get home from work... but like you said... it seems like a long shot.

    I'll even snap you a photo of the setup once I'm home so you can see for yourself how I've got it hooked up.

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Originally posted by docksteaderluke
    The LDVS cable IS disconnected from the LCD panel.
    Excuse me for asking this, but there has been a lot of stupidity going on here lately (not all of it on the other side of my keyboard) , but are the CCFLS connected to the inverter outputs? And as a long shot, make sure the power supply ground is connected to the metal of the LCD panel.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • docksteaderluke
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    The LDVS cable IS disconnected from the LCD panel.

    Leave a comment:


  • docksteaderluke
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Those voltages seem about right, yet the backlight still isn't on.

    Leave a comment:


  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Originally posted by PlainBill
    (I should mention the LCD panel gets it's power through the ribbon cable from the signal card). The signal card itself draws relatively little power.
    PlainBill
    PlainBill, when you mention about the LCD panel getting its power through the LDVS cable, it reminds me of a nightmare I had.
    Not knowing what else to call it, a “trace” on the LDVS flat cable had come loose and the 5V power was touching a ground “trace” on the flat cable.
    I seriously doubt that what's wrong with this monitor, but if the cable was disconnected from the logic board it would rule it out.

    Leave a comment:


  • docksteaderluke
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    That's what I understood, but I just wanted to be sure. With both resistor networks hooked up I still get a black screen and no power LED (obviously since it's not hooked up). The measurements I get are:

    Brightness - 1.04V
    On/Off - 3.09V

    I understand what you're trying to do and I appreciate your help very much. I have an electronics background but just no experience with fixing monitors specifically. Again... thanks for your help!

    Luke
    Last edited by docksteaderluke; 07-15-2011, 04:55 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Originally posted by docksteaderluke
    Should I have both resistor networks hooked up at the same time?
    Yes. AGAIN, the object is to simulate the control signals from a signal card. Pin 5 at about 3.3 volts should turn on the inverter, pin 6 at about 1 volt should set the brightness.

    As a simple explanation, when the power supply comes up, the processor on the signal card initially is held in a reset state until the power supply is stable. It then initializes itself and sets the LCD panel and backlights to the state they were in when power was lost. If the monitor was on when someone pulled the plug, the backlights and LCD panel will be turned on. My working theory was the power supply would shut down momentarily when the load of the panel and the inverter was applied. This (of course) would cause the processor to reset, and you get the on-off pattern you described.

    USUALLY if the load is reduced the pattern will be broken. The two biggest loads on the power supply are the inverter and the LCD panel (I should mention the LCD panel gets it's power through the ribbon cable from the signal card). The signal card itself draws relatively little power. Removing those loads still resulted in the same flashing problem.

    One of the fundamental concepts of troubleshooting is you must identify the cause of a problem before you can fix it. I COULD have had you replace all the caps on the power supply, but I would rather have you do that only if I am confident it will fix the problem. It seems to me temporarily using four resistors to force the inverter on is faster and less expensive than replacing more than half a dozen caps.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • docksteaderluke
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Should I have both resistor networks hooked up at the same time?

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Originally posted by docksteaderluke
    Should the signal card be plugged back in for this?

    I plugged it back in. Soldered up the resistor network and plugged both a VGA cable in and the power cable in.

    What I got was a white screen for about a second, then the LG logo for a second or so and then off for a second or two. Repeat.

    If I didn't have the signal card connected I couldn't see anything on the screen... it was just black and with no backlight (or power LED) either.
    No, I didn't want the signal board hooked up. The resistor network was to turn the inverter on. Perhaps it would be a good idea if I also had you feed a voltage into the brightness input - pin 6 of CN801. The idea was to see if the inverter would work properly if it were fed appropriate voltages without the influence of the signal card.

    Make up a voltage divider similar to the one driving pin 5. But this one should have a 3.9K resistor going to 5V and a 1K going to GND. The common point would go to pin 6 of CN801. And while power is applied, measure the voltages at pins 5 and 6, if you would.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • docksteaderluke
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Should the signal card be plugged back in for this?

    I plugged it back in. Soldered up the resistor network and plugged both a VGA cable in and the power cable in.

    What I got was a white screen for about a second, then the LG logo for a second or so and then off for a second or two. Repeat.

    If I didn't have the signal card connected I couldn't see anything on the screen... it was just black and with no backlight (or power LED) either.
    Last edited by docksteaderluke; 07-14-2011, 09:45 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Originally posted by docksteaderluke
    Ok... gotcha. Did it and still no change.
    I'm getting very close to recommending a total recap, but let's try this first.

    Work from the back of the power supply / inverter.

    1. Take the two resistors and twist one lead of each together, but staggered so one lead extends beyond the other.

    2. On the power supply / inverter lay a strip of tape - electrical, duct, or surgical between the pins of CN801 - the output connector - and the edge of the board.. You want to avoid accidental shorts between the leads of the resistors and the ground bus.

    3. Solder the two twisted leads of the resistor together.

    4. Solder the longer lead of the twist to pin 5 of CN801.

    5. Solder the free end of the 3.3K resistor to pin 3 or 4.

    6. Solder the free end of the 2.2 K resistor to pin 1 or 2.

    7. Check your work; make sure you don't have any shorts.

    8. Lay the power supply / inverter on an insulating surface - a piece of dry cardboard is fine.

    9. Plug the 4 CCFL leads into their sockets.

    10. Take a deep breath, cross your fingers, and plug the power cord into the power supply.

    At this point the CCFLs should come on. If they are flashing at about the same rate as when the signal card was plugged in, the problem is the power supply / inverter card. If they are on steadily, the problem is the signal card.

    Disconnect the power cord, unsolder the resistor network, and report the results.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • docksteaderluke
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Ok... gotcha. Did it and still no change.

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Yeah, what Alexanna said.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • alexanna
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Disconnect the LDVS cable from the logic board to the LCD panel

    Leave a comment:


  • docksteaderluke
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    When you say to try it with the LCD panel disconnected do you mean the VGA cable or the cables going from the inverter side of the power supply to the lcd?

    Yes I have a 3.3k and a 2.2k right here.

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: LG W2234S Repair Help...

    Originally posted by docksteaderluke
    Decided to wait on soldering L802 back on. Soldered the second cap in parallel with the first and no difference (on and off in 2-3 second intervals). Still measuring about 160.5V across them.

    With the second cap wired in I could hear a slight charging then tick (discharge) of the caps.

    I'm trying to think of something else I can use as a load across c819. What kind of resistance are we talking about here (for the load)? I've got tons of resistors lying around that might do the trick.
    One idea. Obviously you have the signal card connected. Do you also have the cable from the signal card to the LCD panel connected? SOMETHING is overloading the power supply or a power rail. I've been assuming (I know, I KNOW!!) it's the inverter, or a bad filter cap. If you haven't already done so, try this with the LCD panel disconnected.

    Do you have a pair of resistors in roughly a 3:2 ratio? For example, a 3.3K and a 2.2K would be ideal.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:

Related Topics

Collapse

  • taslan
    Surface 7 Pro wont boot, shows Logo and immediately turns off
    by taslan
    Hello everyone,
    as stated in the title, my surface 7 pro wont boot anymore.
    When i press the power button it shows the square windows logo for a second and immediately turtns off again.
    I dont even have a chance to get into bios or boot from usb.
    While trying to find help online it was suggested to look for help/repair here on badcaps and it might be a ME Region corruption in bios.
    I dont know what that is exactly, but i never tinkered with the bios or windows in terms of hacking/patching etc.
    Bought it directly from microsoft and used it now and then and only...
    01-16-2025, 01:25 AM
  • Super360
    Vizio E701i-A3 Vizio logo flashing then turns off
    by Super360
    Ok so here's the story. I was watching tv one day when all of a sudden I heard a pop from the back of the tv set and rushed to unplug the set. By this time the tv already had smoke coming out the back. It was not storming or inclement weather that day to cause a power surge to the best of my abilities. When I opened the tv up, I found that the three capacitors on the psu (highlighted in red) were all bulging and looked they had exploded. I replaced all of them right away and when I went to start up the tv after the "fix" it started just showing the flashing vizio logo as soon as power...
    07-25-2024, 07:06 PM
  • USmechS
    Hisense 65H6570F Logo shows then turns off
    by USmechS
    Hello everybody,

    I had this Hisense TV since November 2019 (Bestbuy Blackfriday special). Couple of nights ago my dad turned it off normally. In the morning it does turn on, shows the Hisense logo, then the LED light flashes and it turns off. It remains in the same state.

    Things I have done:
    A. Plug it off and on.
    B. Plug it off, pushing the power button for up to 2 minutes, plug it in.
    C. Contacted the customer service, They sent me a firmware update, with the file name:
    upgrade_loader_no_tvcertificate.pkg
    The zip file has this...
    04-25-2022, 03:06 PM
  • ossroy
    Vizio M60-C3 powers on, perfect logo, turns off
    by ossroy
    Vizio M60-C3 powers on, perfect logo, turns off. If you don't touch anything it will repeat this process by itself until it is unplugged. Not the "button board" since I disconnected the cables to the main board and the problem persisted. So I'm fairly positive something is going on with the main board, but want to know if there is a fix for this other than replacing the expensive mainboard, which may eventually have the same problem. Also, heat sink was hot as hell when this all started. Unplugged for a few days and same thing happens.

    My kids are getting antsy waiting...
    08-03-2022, 08:11 PM
  • Stephen
    MacBook Pro 14" M1 Pro Turns on functions then turns off when I plug in USB C cable
    by Stephen
    MacBook Pro 14" M1 Pro Turns on functions then turns off when I plug in USB C cable to reset the computer. I disconnect the battery fully and then reconnect it and it won't turn back on. After letting it sit for a day I plug the battery back up, and the MagSafe 3 cable and it powers on and stays ons, once I plug in a USB C cable into the port closes to the MagSafe port it turns off and the Amber light turns off and won't turn on. No water damage, nothing, I want to do a DFU restore to wipe the computer since the customer stated they did an update and ever since it just decided to not work...
    03-15-2024, 09:37 AM
  • Loading...
  • No more items.
Working...