Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

[John Graham]

As a side note: My Acer AL2216W has a different PSU than what is depicted here in Post #1 and other attached photos - mine is the DAC-19M009 - see attached.
Anyone know why? (maybe over the years, Acer has upgraded to different Delta PSUs).
Sincerely,
John Graham.

[John Graham]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!



Like wrog says, Panasonic FC or FM are go choices as replacements. FM has better specs and are almost the same price if purchases through digikey. Replace all 8 caps, including the smaller ones as they are part of the startup circuit. I'm including ordering instructions, since it can be a little confusing if you never order them before.


Here's the best way to order from digikey:

1) Go to digikey.com

2) In the "parts search" window type: panasonic fm and select "GO" button

3) Under the Capacitor heading select "Aluminum"

4) The first two columns you see are capacitance and voltage. Highlight the value and voltage with your mouse and select the "Apply Filters" button

5) You'll see several selections available. Here's what to look for:


a) Look at the quantity available and minimum purchase. If "0" are available, then there's none to purchase. Some selections require a minimum purchase of a 1000 units, which you also don't want. I think you get the picture.

b) height and diameter. Measure the original caps and compare to what's listed.


6) If your value is out of stock, go back to the beginning and type in "panasonic fc" and go through the same process.

7) During the checkout process select USPS First Class shipping, since this will give the best ship rate.

EXCELLENT advice! I managed to get 6 of my 7 bulging (2 are leaking) capacitors Unfortunately, I don't know the value of one that I require as it is glued to the board and breaking the glue also stripped the capacitor values (uF) but left the voltage rating intact. I have the Delta DAC-19Moo9 Rev 01A and the capacitor is marked CE103 on the board.
Would you (or anyone on this forum) know what the value should be?
My apologies for not posting a photo of my board, but every time I do that, my post is "UNAPPROVED".
Sincerely,
John Graham

[John Graham]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

I fix 5 Acer AL2216W LCD monitor already, most problem same you had. I just replace the bad capacitor had swelled only is will working again.
if safe side you just replace 5 caps on inverter side only (not 120uF 450V & 2 small caps above big cap)

Hi Hoadle,
I came upon your post as I have an Acer AL2216W and you fixed 5 of the Acers. Unfortunately, this tread shows a different Delta DAC (don't know what the model is as the photos posted are fuzzy) but mine is different (DAC-19M009 Rev 01A). Does this DAC sound about right to you?
The electrolytic caps on the inverter side (7 caps out of 8) are bulging and 2 are leaking and I would like to replace them.
Sincerely,
John Graham

[tinman-cz]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

Just got home. Thank you for the patience.

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...0&d=1507811175
So that little black connector with pins that goes to the main board has labels for each pin, so you need to mount all the boards back in place,

Unfortunately that would prevent me from taking the measurement. Boards are covered with metal plate that holds them in place. What i can do is place them inside the cover and connect them at least to them selves (not to the screen itself that is not possible, for the same reason as before + screen wiring is too short to connect it while being upside down for the measurement)

black probe of the meter on the metal chassis, red probe of the meter is then used to measure the DC Voltage of each pin, report the readings to us.

I made a picture.

"replaced yellow varistor TVR 10 471K03" That is MOV for surge protecion, it is not need for the circuit to operate, so put the original back in.

Ok done

Spec of the P5KE16A: Transient Voltage Suppressor.
http://digitroncorp.com/Products/Pro...ne/TVS/P5KE16A
It is the 16V rating you have that that. if it is 'A' then get the 'A', not 'C' or anything else. Read the spec sheet to match what you have. Is it really P5KE16 'A'?

Correct.
I found one with almost same specs but slightly bigger case.
https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/5kp16a...ductor/5kp16a/
Still nothing

[tinman-cz]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...0&d=1507811175
So that little black connector with pins that goes to the main board has labels for each pin, so you need to mount all the boards back in place, black probe of the meter on the metal chassis, red probe of the meter is then used to measure the DC Voltage of each pin, report the readings to us.
DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING in the HOT side of the circuit, do not touch the heatsinks.

"replaced yellow varistor TVR 10 471K03" That is MOV for surge protecion, it is not need for the circuit to operate, so put the original back in.
Spec of the P5KE16A: Transient Voltage Suppressor.
http://digitroncorp.com/Products/Pro...ne/TVS/P5KE16A
It is the 16V rating you have that that. if it is 'A' then get the 'A', not 'C' or anything else. Read the spec sheet to match what you have. Is it really P5KE16 'A'?

Thank you for the answer.
I am currently not at the place with my broken screen and all equipment. But i will post my findings, as soon as i get back in a few weeks.

[budm]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...0&d=1507811175
So that little black connector with pins that goes to the main board has labels for each pin, so you need to mount all the boards back in place, black probe of the meter on the metal chassis, red probe of the meter is then used to measure the DC Voltage of each pin, report the readings to us.
DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING in the HOT side of the circuit, do not touch the heatsinks.

"replaced yellow varistor TVR 10 471K03" That is MOV for surge protecion, it is not need for the circuit to operate, so put the original back in.
Spec of the P5KE16A: Transient Voltage Suppressor.
http://digitroncorp.com/Products/Pro...ne/TVS/P5KE16A
It is the 16V rating you have that that. if it is 'A' then get the 'A', not 'C' or anything else. Read the spec sheet to match what you have. Is it really P5KE16 'A'?

[tinman-cz]

Acer al2023a Dead

Hello

I found this forum while looking for solution how to fix my Acer al2023a
I would like to ask if anyone of you experienced repair gurus can help me figure it out.
I cant create topic with my forum status. So i picked this topic since the title is fitting + same brand.

Symptoms are:
Lcd used to take some time to "warm up" before the picture would appear.
But eventually it didn't turn on at all....

What i tried
I took the LCD apart and found two boards with some of the caps bulged up.
So i replaced all the electrolytic ones just to be sure on both boards, because i don't have capacitance measuring tester.

Measured all the black axial diodes with diode test + plus that 4 legged flat rectifier, all the axial resistors.
Also tried continuity test on the fuses....if i understand it correctly they should be ok, in the sense they aren't burned.
But i don't have a way to test their max turn off voltage ...or how it works.

Tried replacing the "transil" ? on the last picture it looks like a diode.
Which was only thing that looked like it had experienced some heating.
But could not find any shop that has same type. (P5KE16A) so i tried several others: P6KE15 and P6KE18 with nojoy.
also replaced yellow varistor TVR 10 471K03 with what i found most close JVR10N471K
also no joy.

Next i tried measuring if the pins that heading into the green board give what is written on the board when turned on. And they do.

But what i also noticed ...or better my hand was made aware of that
On the ground lines all over the board and the heat sinks there is AC current not too high voltage ...approximately 8 volts or so ....is that normal ?

Does anyone have a clue what could be the issue?
Thank you for reading and your time.
Tin

[qu1j0t3]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

@RunnerPack it may be a bit late for you, but I'll post AL2216W disassembly instructions here for posterity as I just did it (though I got frustrated and made a dumb mistake or two, so maybe this will help others):

• remove the base by squeezing the two plastic clips underneath it that are holding the stand on
• remove two phillips head screws inside the stand, that hold the stand to the metal bracket
• pop off the plastic cover for the bracket. This is just clipped on, so squeezing it should do it.
• this gives access to the other two self-tapping screws that hold the stand on. Remove them
• remove the bracket (four large Phillips heads)
• remove single screw, that you can only access after stand removed, that is behind the bottom control panel
• remove other four phillips head screws on back of case
• Now you get to the fun part that just about all LCD monitors involve, which is prying the plastic snap hooks apart around the edge of the case. A credit card or other slim piece of plastic, like a guitar pick, can help here. You'll need a straight, sharp blade screwdriver to put in the small slots and pry the case off the hook. Insert your plastic card helper. Slide along to find the next hook. Work around the edges. Once you get a few hooks unclipped, the rest get easier. You'll soon have the bottom and 2 sides free, and you just need to carefully unhook the last, top, edge off its hooks without snapping them. If you're patient you can avoid breaking the bloody hooks, though it's my least favourite part of the disassembly. (I broke all the bottom ones before I realised I'd forgotten to remove the metal stand bracket (!!!))

Once you get the case apart:

• I'm pretty sure you need to unplug the flat ribbon cable to the control panel to give freedom of movement to the metal plate under it. Be very careful not to pinch that cable in what follows.
• Unplug the four high voltage plugs (blue/pink). Take note of their positions for reconnection.
• Remove the screws that hold the metal electronics cover. Note that one is larger than the others and must be returned to the same spot.
• Remove the screws either side of the AC inlet and also the four hex posts either side of the VGA and DVI connectors (Yeah, at first I didn't realise this would be needed)
• Raise the metal plate (below the box) so that you can slide the box clear away (off the connector flanges). Note that the box has tabs with screw holes that slide UNDER the flanges on the metal plate. I was only able to raise the metal plate at an angle, I wasn't able to remove it entirely for some reason. Note that there are two plastic hooks inside the edge of the case that hook into that plate, you may need to unclip those before raising the plate.
• Once you've removed the metal electronics cover, there are small screws and one larger screw on the inverter (power board). Slide the board directly away from the digital board (there is a nice direct plug/socket connection between the two, so DON'T lift the board! Slide directly away only so as not to damage this connector.)
• You now have the inverter board free and clear for repair!

My repair was 3 bulging capacitors, the 2200uF 10V, and two of the 220uF 25V's (which I replaced with 470's as that was what I had on hand. I believe it's generally safe to replace with higher value.)

When reassembling, don't do what I did when putting the electronics cover back on—I managed to get it stuck because I let the tabs sit OVER the plate's screw holes, and it was tricky to get off again. Take note of how it is before you remove it and make sure you slide things back in in the same configuration (cover tabs under the plate flange, iirc).

It was also tricky to reconnect the flat cable. Those things are fragile even though they have a blue plastic reinforced plug end. I don't have a good tool for reinserting so I used a few tricks like folding a piece of cardboard over it, pinching hard (the glue actually helps), and pushing with some force, make sure you really are aligned with the socket, or you'll probably damage the plug end. Be patient

Hope that helps and please message me with any questions. (My repair was a success.)

Keywords: How to open Acer AL2216W. Disassemble. Take-Apart. Repair.

[RunnerPack]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

Does anyone have a link to model-specific disassembly instructions?

[Lumberjack777]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!! HELPPPPP

I really do not wanna get it to the repair shop or buy a new monitor cause the first 2 seconds monitor works well and I can see the desktop!

Help plz! Now I have spent so much time on this issue and don't wanna give up easy!

First of all, you don't need to worry too much. That's an extremely popular board and you can buy them cheap on eBay. Anywhere from $12.99 (used from Hong Kong) to $19.90 (new from China) including shipping.

But you should run those CCFL tests Plain Bill mentioned to make sure it's not a bulb. That brown cap in the inverter circuitry that Bill mentioned looks like the stock cap. You said you replaced 7 caps. I count 8 including the big one. And that one looks new. Did we skip one?

The usual disclaimers apply. I am not associated with China. Hong Kong. Or the communist party. Thank you.

[PlainBill]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!! HELPPPPP

Guys I think I am being screwed here I have the same problem which happened a month ago! After 2 seconds monitor goes dark while the light stays green! After reading whole bunch of forums inc. here, I replaced 7 caps and inverter (circled in red in the attached photo) and same issue stayed. It did not work What else should I do? I really do not wanna get it to the repair shop or buy a new monitor cause the first 2 seconds monitor works well and I can see the desktop!

Help plz! Now I have spent so much time on this issue and don't wanna give up easy!

Please confirm that is a picture of your monitor. It looks like most of the caps are Panasonic FMs, is that correct? What brand and series is the brown cap; that's in the inverter circuitry?

In general, there are four reasons for 'two seconds to black'; bad caps (you may have eliminated that), problems with the CCFLs or the wiring to them, problems with the inverter transformers, and problems in the sense circuitry.

Let's try to tackle the CCFLs (and wiring) first. There are four connectors for the leads to the CCFLs. Number the connectors 1, 2, 3, 4. There are four cables that plug into the conenctors. Label them A, B, C, D. Normally A is plugged into 1, B into 2, etc.

Unplug all cables to the CCFLs except A. Turn on the monitor and note how bright it is. Disconnect Cable A, plug Cable B into connector 2. Repeat turning the monitor on and noting how bright it is. Do the same for C and D. Do all of the CCFLs light at the same brightness?

If one does not, plug it into an adjacent connector and see if it is is bright. (B is dim, or does not light at all. Plug connector B into connector 3.)

PlainBill

[shahabjet1]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!! HELPPPPP

Guys I think I am being screwed here I have the same problem which happened a month ago! After 2 seconds monitor goes dark while the light stays green! After reading whole bunch of forums inc. here, I replaced 7 caps and inverter (circled in red in the attached photo) and same issue stayed. It did not work What else should I do? I really do not wanna get it to the repair shop or buy a new monitor cause the first 2 seconds monitor works well and I can see the desktop!

Help plz! Now I have spent so much time on this issue and don't wanna give up easy!

[Wrog]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

Outstanding, congrats! Another saved from the landfill.

[chinaclipper]

Acer AL2216W was dead-- NOT ANYMORE!!!

Caps in today.
A little solder, a little checking, a little second checking for luck, a little re-installation of parts--plug it in....

VOILA!!
IT'S ALIVE!!!!!

Total outlay, $5 for caps ( I got an extra of all seven I needed. I've done something like this before, I KNOW how it sometimes goes...) $7 for shipping. (got here in < three days)
$12
Bragging rights with friends??
PRICELESS!
Thank you everyone who assisted and encouraged me.
Put me down as a satisfied customer

[chinaclipper]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

YIP YIP Yahoo! Caps are due in today.
Maybe tonight I will get to put them in and see if this thing works!

[smason]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

I am a ham radio operator so I have some LIMITED electronic experience...

Cool. I think there are a few of us here.

Hams come in all levels of expertease. Unfortunately many just memorized answers to test questions, and wouldn't know a resistor if it landed in their Corn Flakes.
I know a ham that could probably design/build a monitor from scratch (including programming the firmware) and I know an advanced ham that needed help wiring a 1/4 in. plug on his CW key

[jetadm123]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

Hmmm. Those are ceramic capacitors right?
I'll look into that too.

Yes, they are ceramic caps. Hopefully, the dark part at the top of the cap is from a marker and not a scorch mark. However, it is hard to tell from the photo.

[chinaclipper]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

One other thing... I've circled a component to the right of the transformer. Is that just marker on the top? Hard to tell from the photo. Another similar one exists a little farther up and to the right (but it's a little lighter).

Hmmm. Those are ceramic capacitors right?
I'll look into that too.

[Wrog]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

Thanks for the replies guys. I decided to give my business to BADCAPS.The least I could do! I got Rubycons (sp?)
The monitor was DARK. but the power light on the right corner flashed from green to yellow/brown to green etc.
I got all the caps except the big 450V one. Might as well be safe.

Good idea. I try to order as much as I can from here but sometimes it's difficult to match up specs. Remember that Topcat specializes in motherboard repair so that's what his cap selection is geared towards (as far as values/voltages go). It's great that he carries all of the ones you're looking for... I haven't been that lucky yet!

[Wrog]

Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!

One other thing... I've circled a component to the right of the transformer. Is that just marker on the top? Hard to tell from the photo. Another similar one exists a little farther up and to the right (but it's a little lighter).