Re: Samsung SyncMaster 2493HM black screen with power
McEugene, My PSU is identical to yours and I have the same symptom.
I tested resistance of the yellow goo and it was obvious that where it had turned brown and discoloured (heat?) that the resistance was low (it was easy to measure < 500kΩ). On the bright yellow glue, resistance still appears high (OL on meter, 20M range).
I removed as much of the browned goo as I could. It smothered a few capacitors and other components as in your case. However, after that cleanup there was no...
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Re: Subject: 2 Dead Antec PSU's, worth fixing?
My feelings exactly, Per!
And one of the caps had already leaked, so it definitely needed doing.
However, the whine is too much for my wife (whines in sleep and turned on; any time AC is connected, so that's a big clue, I guess?), so I may have to use the new AR350 I bought as a backup plan.
Any hints on the whine would be welcome :-)Last edited by qu1j0t3; 05-14-2017, 07:36 AM.
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Re: Subject: 2 Dead Antec PSU's, worth fixing?
I was able to get all needed caps from Digikey, both 10mm & 8mm Ø. Mostly Panasonic FR series. (Plus I had a couple of 470uF's in stock already.)
I've attached the part numbers I used—I only replaced 10.
A paperclip test with no load shows steady fan and good voltages. There is a distinct whine. However, under load, it does what it did before recapping—cycles on and off, about every 3 seconds.
...Last edited by qu1j0t3; 04-29-2017, 06:33 PM.
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Re: Ar300 psu
For the record, since I'm looking at one of these supplies now, I can state that the Anode (non-stripe) end is (fully) inserted in the hole closest to the IC. But this is also indicated on the silkscreening, which has the symbol with anode end close to IC.
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Re: Subject: 2 Dead Antec PSU's, worth fixing?
I've also got a dead AR300 here - fairly constant squeal on power up, gives the fan a little kick, and repeats every few seconds.
There don't appear to be burned out components, so I'm going to attempt a recap (I've done a dozen LCD monitors or so).
Thanks for the good advice in the thread. My only question is - Do I need to replace ALL ~14 capacitors? Some are quite small, I'm not accustomed to replacing the smaller ones - just the midsize and large (of which there are about 7, one having visible leakage)....Last edited by qu1j0t3; 04-01-2017, 03:08 PM.
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Re: Acer AL2216W Dead!! Here we go!!
@RunnerPack it may be a bit late for you, but I'll post AL2216W disassembly instructions here for posterity as I just did it (though I got frustrated and made a dumb mistake or two, so maybe this will help others):
[LIST][*] remove the base by squeezing the two plastic clips underneath it that are holding the stand on[*] remove two phillips head screws inside the stand, that hold the stand to the metal bracket[*] pop off the plastic cover for the bracket. This is just clipped on, so squeezing it should do it.[*] this gives access to the...Last edited by qu1j0t3; 02-12-2017, 01:12 PM.
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Dell 2007FP/2007FPb inverters available - "new old stock"
This [URL="http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DELL-2007FP-2007FPb-p-n-4H-L2H02-A06-LCD-Power-Supply-/251509243540"]ebay seller[/URL] has them.
I'm not affiliated, but I did buy one. The item was exactly as described, new, and well packed, and I have no hesitation in recommending the seller if you need the inverter part number 4H.L2H02.A06 (note this is NOT the same shape as A05 and aren't interchangeable).This [URL="http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DELL-2007FP-2007FPb-p-n-4H-L2H02-A06-LCD-Power-Supply-/251509243540"]ebay seller[/URL] has them.
I'm not affiliated, but ILast edited by qu1j0t3; 08-27-2016, 01:29 PM.
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Re: Dell 2007WFPb 2 seconds to black
I quoted the logic board part number. The inverter board model is 4H.L2J02.A05.
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Dell 2007WFPb 2 seconds to black
Have replaced inverter board caps with no change.
I checked the "272" SMD resistor on the usb board (the one covered by goo) as others have done (I first saw it in this thread [url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpost.php?p=388304&postcount=10[/url]), and it reads a nominal 2.8K. However the SMD component next to it reads open—not sure if that's an issue.
I also measured transformers as described in this post:
[url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpost.php?p=176466&postcount=14[/url]
All readings are nominal ~ 1.06 but one...Last edited by qu1j0t3; 07-04-2015, 07:55 PM.
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 245B Dead
Also, until the screen is fully warmed up (say 20 minutes), there is another, even more strange effect—a kind of "bloom" that my gut says might be overvoltage. This causes a growing polarisation effect (i.e. colour shift to blue, then saturation to white I think, but in a circular flare off centre from screen) that also freezes updates to the screen image (so the digital board is being affected too?) Then it suddenly snaps back to normal, so the effect is like a slow triangular ramp then an instantaneous drop. Could...Last edited by qu1j0t3; 03-11-2013, 09:54 PM.
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 245B Dead
Replacing the three resistors resolved the problem. My only regret was that I didn't use heatshrink on the long leg, as if these are pushed together (e.g. while manhandling the board into place) there is a chance of shorting (I assume that was why the caulk was originally used). Heatshrink seems like an even better solution, so in case anyone else is doing the repair, try that along the long lead!
There is a barely noticeable flickering in the light intensity at least before the screen fully warms up. Could this be...
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 245B Dead
Another case here. Measured the three resistors (with one lead unsoldered first), two are fine, one is open circuit. Will buy three more better rated resistors tomorrow!
The advice on this board is much appreciated. I've used it to refer to while repairing several monitors.
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