Re: Spectra S1+ Breast pump - No suction
Ok I took the cover off the pump to reveal that it works off 12vdc. Applied 12vdc and it functions fine. So definitely a circuitry issue.
Noticed two test points. One measures 5v the other TP2 shown in the pic on the pump side of the circuit measures 11v. But at the pump connections I get 0v.
On Q7 I measure battery voltage 11-11.34v (jumps to 11.34 then back to 11v as the little metal box cycles on/off) on gate and all 3 source pins. So this should be turning the mosfet on correct? Vg-Vs 11v-11v = 0v (could be wrong I often struggle remembering how mosfets work)
Nothing measured on the drain pins.
I think Q7 is shorted Gate to Source I measure .978v in diode mode both ways
Quick search shows this is a 30v P-Channel Mosfet in SOP 8-package
Can’t seem to find a replacement. Could someone help me with that? Thanks
Spectra S1+ Breast pump - No suction
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Re: Spectra S1+ Breast pump - No suction
To answer those, have a look on the PCB to see if it reveals any clues. If the black wire (negative terminal?) going to the pump is connected to ground, and the red wire to a single MOSFET or (or other switching device), then the pump is most likely DC-driven... though it could also be pulsed DC, not knowing exactly what is inside.
We also know the absolute maximum voltage is imposed by that of the battery and AC adapter - i.e. 12V and no more.
Perhaps get the instruction manual and see how it's supposed to operate. Maybe if not attached properly to the body, the pump won't run??Leave a comment:
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Re: Spectra S1+ Breast pump - No suction
Also when turned on this valve? Clicks. I'm guessing created the suction from the pump. At the pump connector I measure 0vLeave a comment:
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Re: Spectra S1+ Breast pump - No suction
Does the pump use a simple DC motor? (Looks like it, as it's only a 2-wire connector?) If so, does it turn when you power it with an external power source. Surely the first step would be to make sure the pump motor is OK... and if yes, then move on to the circuits.Leave a comment:
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Re: Spectra S1+ Breast pump - No suction
wow - talk about scam.
99% of the circuitry looks like it's just for a graphic display.Leave a comment:
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Spectra S1+ Breast pump - No suction
Trying to fix this for someone. They said water got into to it and it worked for a day then suddenly no more suction from the pump.
There isn’t any visible liquid/corrosion on the circuit board. Display works and responds to control settings, but the suction pump never turns on. The yellow connector goes to the pump
Have no idea about how this is supposed to work so looking for any advice on where to start/what to look for.Last edited by caphair; 09-12-2020, 10:14 AM.Tags: None
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by DannyxGood day folks. A task was given to me to redesign the control system for a pump system in a remote location. The idea is that there's a tank which has a float or some sort of switch/sensor to detect when it's full/empty and this runs some pumps accordingly. The trouble is the pump and the tank are like 4km apart, from what the chap who inspected them on our behalf told me, so the way this currently works is by using some unknown boards based on SIM cards (see the pictures). From what I can assume, when a contact closes at the "client side" (the tank), it calls up the "server side"...
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by sam_sam_samIf you have this Desoldering Gun Station there is something you should be aware of the two screws that hold the motor to mounting for pump can come loose and make raddling noise
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Now this with the vacuum motor mounting issue yes I give this Desoldering station a very hard work out and use about every weekend to do some type of project
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by betmenHello,
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the pump mentioned?
The markings on the board are 98800964 r07, two or three capacitors are burnt.
I don't have the board with me yet, but I don't know if the printed lines on the board are visible due to the short circuit that occurred and how the capacitors were connected.2 Photos -
by stjjust did one.
works great.
so here's the discoveries.
the pump "modules" have 4 parts, the main body, the outside bit, the inside bit - screwed to the main body, and the diaphram.
the failure is the inside bit, it has a rubber coating for some reason that becomes tacky and breaks down - contaminating the diaphram.
so you need to clean everything to get rid of all the tacky black stuff.
then reassemble it.
*BUT*
you must put the 2 screws into the assembly only finger-tight.
if you tighten it properly the valves dont work.... - Loading...
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