Looking for resistor

[keeney123]

Re: Looking for resistor

well i hope your company gives the optimum charging voltage and current to the customer.

Perhaps it is an American Company, in this case it will not matter as we Americans like thing sloppy. We like to abuse the device way beyond what it should endure and we expect that it should still be running at optimum performance. Kind of like a figure 8 stock car race.

[keeney123]

Re: Looking for resistor

That's weird because I know budm and others have seen the pictures ...
Yea this is a public computer. They have stupid security trying to prevent outer tenants from watching pornography. The only thing is it also prevent me from going to General Electrics site because according to this security it is an illicit site. Any rough draw of what you have will work.
I guess I was not clear about the door bell. To me the door bell is the switch one pushes to make the door chime sound.
So you see two wire on the transformer red and white. So where is the transformer at and what voltage do you measure on those wires? Next, you see two wires at the door bell. Is there any voltage across those wires? If not then twist them together, go back to the door chime and see if you measure voltage across those two wires and what is that voltage? It should be the voltage of the transformer. If it is not then something is not connected correctly. Caution, make sure the wires where the door chime is suppose to be are not touching before you measure or twist the wires at the door bell together. If you do not measure any voltage on the transformer There are two possibilities 1 The transformer is burnt out, in this case one can ohm out the wires. 2 You have one lead on the 120 AC line and the other lead on the the 16 volt line, in this case take one lead and move it to the other transformer contacts until you either measure primary 120VAC or the secondary 16VAC.

[stj]

Re: Looking for resistor

well i hope your company gives the optimum charging voltage and current to the customer.

[budm]

Re: Looking for resistor

Well, what do you think the VAC on the resistor or the chime solenoid will be when the button is pushed to activate the Chime (or if the resistor is used) for let say using 24VAC Transformer?
24 Ohms resistor with 24VAC applied = 1A = 24 Watts. Using 24 Ohms resistor will limit the current to 1A if the unit is shorted out.
If the charging circuit tries to draw more current then more Vdrops will be on the resistor thus Trickle charge is used to not draw lots of power.

How do I know about this typical setup? The company I work for also makes similar products.

[stj]

Re: Looking for resistor

and still no current figure - maybe someone wants to buy a small transformer for one - too bad i suppose.
if it's so smart and current is so low - why the high current resistor!

[budm]

Re: Looking for resistor

Trickle charge:
Hardwired (i.e. connected to your existing door chime)

The Ring Doorbell can be connected to your existing door chime–mechanical or electronic–so long as it's between 8-24VAC. Simply remove your door chime and connect the existing wires to the designated terminals on the Ring Doorbell mounting bracket.

Once successfully connected, the Ring Doorbell will ring your existing door chime. In addition, your legacy doorbell wires will trickle charge your Ring Doorbell. It's important to note that trickle charging is slightly different than plugging Ring directly into a power source. It's possible that your battery percentage could drop over time depending on usage and temperature.

Fast charge when use USB.
Charging circuit is inside the unit.

[stj]

Re: Looking for resistor

yes, it can charge in 5hours, or maybe overcharge if left connected,
but if it draws enough current to charge in 5 hours from a 2a transformer, how does it know to limit the current if you can only provide a 1a supply?

transformers dont limit current, they just get very hot and fail.

critical info is missing,
i hope that's not the purpose of the ballast resistor!!

[budm]

Re: Looking for resistor

'the information on that site is useless'
Really?

It has internal battery so when power failed it will still function and the battery can be charged through the USB port.

DOES RING REQUIRE POWER WIRES TO WORK?
Ring Doorbell can operate wirelessly using its built-in battery. You also have the option of connecting your Ring Doorbell to your home’s existing doorbell wiring.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE THE BATTERY TO RECHARGE?
When connected to a 2.1 amp charger, Ring will fully charge in approximately 4-5 hours. When connected to a 1 amp charger, Ring will fully charge in approximately 9-10 hours.

WHAT DOORBELL TRANSFORMERS ARE COMPATIBLE WITH RING DOORBELL?
Ring Doorbells may be connected to low voltage transformers that power home doorbell kits. You can connect Ring in series with a transformer operating between 8V and 24V AC only. Intercom systems and DC transformers are not compatible. If you would like to wire your Ring Doorbell to a compatible low voltage AC transformer without a doorbell kit, you must use a resistor. See this article for information on connecting to a transformer without a doorbell kit: https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/ar...t-a-door-chime

WHAT TYPE OF DOORBELL CAN BE CONNECTED TO RING DOORBELL?
You will only be able to connect Ring Doorbell to a (hard)wired doorbell. The doorbell must have a transformer with a voltage of 8 VAC – 24 VAC. Wireless intercom systems, and doorbells using a DC transformer are not supported.

https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/ar...-Ring-Doorbell
When connected to a 2.1 amp charger, Ring Doorbells can take up to 5 hours to fully charge. Connected to a 1 amp charger, Ring Doorbells may take up to 10 hours to fully charge. Check the print on your charger to determine the amp reading (usually listed as 1.0a or 2.1a).

With normal use, Ring's battery can last between 6 and 12 months. If your Ring is capturing large numbers of events each day the battery will deplete faster. You will receive notifications when the battery in your Ring is getting low.

To charge your Ring Doorbell:

Remove your Ring Doorbell from the mounting bracket.
Connect any micro USB charging cable to the charging port.
Verify blue and white lights spin on the front of your Ring Doorbell. If no spinning lights, see below for next steps.
Allow your Ring Doorbell to fully charge (may take up to 10 hours). When the lights stop spinning and glow blue the unit is charged.

https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/ar...attery-Powered
The Ring Doorbell has dual power, which means you can choose to run it off of the internal Lithium battery, or connect it to your existing doorbell wires.

Battery Operated (i.e. wireless)

If you choose to operate it wirelessly, the Ring Doorbell could last for up to a year before needing another charge. Battery life, however, depends on a variety of factors–the most important being usage. Frequent motion alerts or dings will play in role in how long your device will function before needing another charge. You can plug the included micro-USB charging cord into a USB power wall adapter (e.g. the square that Apple or Samsung provides with your phone) and your Ring Doorbell should only take 4-5 hours to go from empty to full. If you plug the USB charging chord directly into devices that don't support fast charging (such as laptops) it will take closer to 8-10 hours.

Hardwired (i.e. connected to your existing door chime)

The Ring Doorbell can be connected to your existing door chime–mechanical or electronic–so long as it's between 8-24VAC. Simply remove your door chime and connect the existing wires to the designated terminals on the Ring Doorbell mounting bracket.

Once successfully connected, the Ring Doorbell will ring your existing door chime. In addition, your legacy doorbell wires will trickle charge your Ring Doorbell. It's important to note that trickle charging is slightly different than plugging Ring directly into a power source. It's possible that your battery percentage could drop over time depending on usage and temperature.

https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/se...l-Installation
https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/ar...Video-Doorbell

Spending $200, that is another question.

[stj]

Re: Looking for resistor

the information on that site is useless, i would never buy one.

contact them and ask the current-draw of the charging circuit at 12v.
without that info you risk burning up your transformer.

frankly the design should have allowed for a 5v dc supply using the battery as a backup incase of power failure - not that your net will work in that situation anyway!!!

[joshnz]

Re: Looking for resistor

https://ring.com/setup
https://ring.com/faq

It does have battery inside.

ok.
are you putting a chime on wall where old one was?

[budm]

Re: Looking for resistor

so the doorbell you are using at moment is battery powered? what battery/batterys does it use?

https://ring.com/setup
https://ring.com/faq

It does have battery inside.

[budm]

Re: Looking for resistor

BTW, the Ring.com provided the link to Digikey as to what type of the resistors to use so they already tried and used them in their lab otherwise they would not have come up with those two recommended resistors.
So I do not see why you are trying to use something else that they did not recommend.
https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/ar...a-doorbell-kit

[joshnz]

Re: Looking for resistor

Greetings everyone:

I have a ring.com doorbell and it seems like to hardwire the doorbell so I don't have to take it off the wall to charge it weekly, I need a transformer and a resistor as seen here:
https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/ar...a-doorbell-kit

So basically I need a 25 to 33 Ohm/20 to 50 Watt wirewound resistor, does anyone have any recommendations on what brands/parts are suitable for this and also for the doorbell wire, can I just use 18 or 20 guage speaker wire? Also, is there a reason to use a wirewound resistor instead of a film resistor? Since this will be outside, what can I use to cover up the wires?

Thanks!

so the doorbell you are using at moment is battery powered? what battery/batterys does it use?

[Almighty1]

Re: Looking for resistor

Do I understand this right, you are going to spend close to 3/4 of a million dollars on a renovation, and you feel that $10k (roughly 1.6% more) is too much to add to ensure your (and your family's) safety and keep from losing that $650k+ investment in renovation costs?

Or, is the question in this thread just a (very) temporary setup until the renovations are being done?

I am concerned as with over 30 years as an electrician and LV/AV installer the pics (Post #7 in this thread here: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=52762 ) revealed some very dangerous issues..I have seen way too many close calls and serious fires over my career caused by things like this.

Please be careful and make sure you have working smoke alarms.

The $650k is sitting in investments right now so when it's needed, it will be taken out. You do realize that the longer someone takes to answer my question about the resistor which is what this thread is really about, the more I have to unmount the $200 ring.com doorbell which I need to do once a week as the screws will strip sooner or later if I keep mounting and unmounting once a week. I know my smoke alarms are working since I have both wired alarms that are monitored by nextalarm.com and also have nest protect alarms. As for renovations, like I said before, everything will only be temporary since I am not doing remodeling but the entire house will be completely demolished and then rebuilt so it is both longer and taller so what is the point of spending the $10k which will take atleast 6 months to get approved since San Francisco is both a city and a county and it's not that easy to demolish things and by demolishing things, that is when there is both safety and liability as there is a problem with the foundation of the house. Besides that, it's not like I will spend $10k and that $10k will be there since remember once the remodeling starts in 7-12 months, everything will be torn down so that $10k basically just went down the toilet or forcing money to hell. Besides that, as I mentioned before, I will be going on vacation for a month in less than 2 months and the whole point of the ring.com doorbell is not just for someone to ring the doorbell but it acts as a security camera which logs all events that are motion detected based on heat which is why it's important to hard wire the ring.com doorbell so that it does not require unmounting to charge and then mounting it back again once a week when no one will even be here. It's a security and safety issue since if someone breaks in while I am gone, atleast there will be security video footage. That is the reason for the resistor which I have been asking about for the last few weeks. Not sure why it is so hard to answer a simple question but instead, everyone seems to be more interested in the garage and it burning down. There is always risks in everything and then benefits as well. You can walk out the street and get run over by a car so does that mean you'll just stay home all day? My trip is in May and I need to get this done before tax season starts when I won't have much time which was the reason I was asking for suitable resistors that meet that specification. I will not be using the existing transformer and I have way more important things to figure out like the mouse and rats in the garage that has been chewing things up in the house the past few months. Having a electrician will not only cost that $10k but also let the mouses and rats in as they are now locked inside the garage. So let's treat the two threads as two different things because they are. The garage and existing transformer is one option without using the resistor and I could care less if the chime makes a sound or not as I have the Ring Wireless plug-in chime for that purpose while this thread is using a new transformer near the doorbell with a resistor and no chime and the whole purpose of it is just to hardwire to the ring.com doorbell which is not just a doorbell but rather a security monitoring system to prevent bad things happening before it does versus security systems that alert after the break-in. Besides that, the mortgage company who still actually owns the home until it is paid off is aware of everything and the liability is on the insurance company if it does burn, etc. and should it burn down, I will actually be saving money as in 3/4 of a million since the insurance will pay for building the new house. I never said the house was in good condition to begin with so if it burns down, it will actually be better for everyone except the insurance company. Besides that, as I said over and over again, no electrician or contractor will touch it regardless what you paid them as there is lots of liability involved since we live on a hill, last thing they want to be liable for is the house sliding on neighbors properties and then be liable for that.

[Almighty1]

Re: Looking for resistor

So the link to the pictures bring one back to one post. I notice in the upper right hand corner the link to the whole post. I click on that and go to the whole post, look at where you supposedly post pictures and there are none. I do see the diagram in one post but on pictures post of the actual set up as you have them it is not there. Usually one brings both wires from the door bell to the chime. One of those wires are gets cut. That wire goes to the chime the other wire on the chime goes to one side of the transformer. The other solid wire that is not cut at the chime goes to the other side of the transformer this then completes the circuit. So it is best if you draw out what I said on a piece of paper and then look at the wires to chime and see if they are connected it in this way.

That's weird because I know budm and others have seen the pictures which is easier to explain so it has to be your internet connection or you have something that is blocking imgur.com from showing you pictures as it works fine for me and everyone else. I suck at drawing anything so my drawing for diagrams would not work. I know what usually people do but the only thing visible is two wires at where the doorbell is supposed to be and two wires at where the door chime is supposed to be, I can also see the transformer end with a white and red wire. You're missing the point that I don't have a door bell or door chime yet and I don't need the door bell because the whole reason for the door chime is so I don't have to get the resistor to use with another transformer so my question is really how do I determine which of the two wires sticking out at the place where the door chime is supposed to be is connected to the transformer or not since remember I cannot see anything after the 6" exposed wires goes into the wall. and just to remind you, I do not have a chime yet so what would be the best way to check if one of those wires is connected as that is all I want to know.

[mxslick]

Re: Looking for resistor

Not when the cost is over $10k as all the walls will need to be torn down. I will already be spending $650k+ in the remodeling process alone, licensed electricians and even contractors had looked at the issue as this was even part of the home inspection process before the home was purchased 7+ years ago. They basically all said that to fix the problem, all the walls need to be taken down and demolished as that will require a permit on it's own since everything is in sealed walls now which is why they all suggested to just have it done during the remodeling process since everything will be taken down at that point anyways. I am not planning to use the resistor on the existing wiring as I want to avoid that due to what was mentioned by you and others about the safety hazard. This is why I will just have a plug-in transformer to the wall directly to the doorbell which is about 10 feet away and the reason for the resistor.

Do I understand this right, you are going to spend close to 3/4 of a million dollars on a renovation, and you feel that $10k (roughly 1.6% more) is too much to add to ensure your (and your family's) safety and keep from losing that $650k+ investment in renovation costs?

Or, is the question in this thread just a (very) temporary setup until the renovations are being done?

I am concerned as with over 30 years as an electrician and LV/AV installer the pics (Post #7 in this thread here: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=52762 ) revealed some very dangerous issues..I have seen way too many close calls and serious fires over my career caused by things like this.

Please be careful and make sure you have working smoke alarms.

[keeney123]

Re: Looking for resistor

So the link to the pictures bring one back to one post. I notice in the upper right hand corner the link to the whole post. I click on that and go to the whole post, look at where you supposedly post pictures and there are none. I do see the diagram in one post but on pictures post of the actual set up as you have them it is not there. Usually one brings both wires from the door bell to the chime. One of those wires are gets cut. That wire goes to the chime the other wire on the chime goes to one side of the transformer. The other solid wire that is not cut at the chime goes to the other side of the transformer this then completes the circuit. So it is best if you draw out what I said on a piece of paper and then look at the wires to chime and see if they are connected it in this way.

[keeney123]

Re: Looking for resistor

VA vs WATTS:
http://switchon.eaton.com/power-esse...FQqIfgodsG8JNw

http://electronicdesign.com/energy/w...d-volt-amperes

I never learned that in school. Although I did not download the PDF file, because one has to register, this explanation is a little convoluted. It says it is apparent power which can very according to your capacitance and inductive load. When it says VA is RMS power which is different than apparent power that is confusing. As RMS is 0.707 of peak voltage. DC is average voltage .6 something . Depending on the lead or lag of the current and voltage the apparent power will change, there is also a frequency component tied with apparent power. When I see VA I take it for VA Which is Volt*Amps there is no specifications as to RMS power or apparent power which are two very different things. Apparent power is not figured by RMS V and RMS A. It is figured from how the capacitance and inductive and frequency is effects the voltage and current in a sinusoidal wave. So if they are using VA as something other then want it is then I am totally confused.

[Almighty1]

Re: Looking for resistor

Yes 40VA is 40 watts. 40 VA is 40 volts times amp. Volts times amps is watts. I think in another thread or even this thread I post where you can by a 16 volt 10VA at Home Depot for $8. I would not use a transformer that is the wrong rating for the door chime as it may not work at all. I would still check the wires with a meter as some people may of connected them wrong. Any good electrician would do this check. You always check voltages or current on the largest scale and then go to a smaller scale if you can not get a reading. I went to your link but there was no pictures.

If you have no door bell or wires on the outside of the home then you will need to run wires to the outside of the home. You will need what they call a fish. This is a reel of solid very stiff wire with a loop at the end of it. It is contain in a plastic container than can be reeled out or up depending on what you need. You will fish this wire up from your basement or down from your attic. In the basement you may have to drill a hole in a stud to get to the interior wall. You will also have to drill another hole in the outside wall where you want the door bell. That is where the wires will come through. You fish this stiff wire to this hole. This will require two people. One looking for the wire and one doing the fishing. When you get the fish to the outside wall you then strip the end of the two wires your are going to use for the door chime. Then you twist the wire end and loop them them through stiff wire loop and twist them back on to themselves and lastly you tape them very tight and smooth so they do not slip off. The next thing is to pull the wire. you will then bring them to the chime and then to the transformer. Or you could get a wireless door bell. You will have a door bell on the outside of the door. This has a AA or AAA battery which can be replaced easy. It also last a long time. The chime you plug in to a wall outlet somewhere near the door on the inside of you house.
Lastly if the wiring is screwed up in your house then make sure you have smoke and fire alarms in each room. When you can afford an electrician, get a "master" electrician first to come to your house to see what needs to be done and gives you a cost break down on doing it. Then do one thing at a time until you get is completed.

What I meant was in your previous example, the 40VA = 40 watts somehow became 23.04Watts.

As for the link, it works fine when I just tried it as there are atleast 3 pictures but this is the main link for the thread:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpost.php?p=638380

I replied in the other thread a few days ago that I can get a Heath Zenith Multi-purpose transformer locally at the hardware store for $5 which is the exact model as shown here:

https://www.heath-zenith.com/product...125?taxon_id=3

The only thing using one of those, I would need something to house the transformer as it will be on the floor in the living room even though it's underneath a table, sometimes I need to fix my computer and might accidentally touch it.

That's why using something like this will probably work better:
http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Powe.../dp/B004HN3OEK

I'm in San Francisco, a anti-chain store city so the only thing here is Lowe's as the location was something HD negotiated for 10+ years that finally got approved but they decided not to open so Lowe's took over it.

I think you misunderstood what I said. The wires are there where the doorbell and chime is supposed to be, there is just no chime and no doorbell button there if you are able to see the pictures. Basically at where the doorbell button is, there is two wires which from what I read, it doesn't matter which direction it goes so that part I am not concerned about. The part I am concerned about is the two wires where the doorchime is supposed to be but there is no doorchime there so I just need to figure out if one of the wires is connected to the transformer and how to actually do it since remember the other wire would connect to one side of the non-existent doorbell button so it is not a complete circuit that can be tested easily as at both locations, one wire is supposed to go to the transformer while the other is between the doorbell button and the doorbell chime. The entire basement is finished so it's not easy accessing wires except at the location where it is still exposed as all the wires are in finished walls including the telco demarc point which is the same reason AT&T would cut the outside line and just mount a new box and not even deal with inside wiring as I had to run a external CAT 6 cable on the exterior wall.

Unlike typical houses where the garage is on the lower level just below the front door, my garage where the transformer is at the rear of the house on the lower 1st floor while the front door doorbell wall hole with existing wires is on the upper level of the house on the 2nd floor so the fishing part might or might not work as it all depends on if the walls are still hollow or if it's completely solid. In any case, I think we should really get back to the original topic about the resistor. I have no problems finding transformers, wiring or anything else, it's the resistor I need help finding.

If you read the thread on why I need a resistor, you will know my object is not to have a working chime or a regular doorbell whether conventional or wireless. I just need a working transformer with either a resistor or a working transformer with a working chime so that I can connect the existing wires where the doorbell is supposed to be to my Ring.com Doorbell so it is hardwired so that I do not have to remove it once a week to recharge the battery by MicroUSB which will not be possible when I am going to be on a trip in Asia for a month in May and June 2016. The doorbell captures all motion whenever it is detected that is 600-700 events a week.

I have smoke/carbon monoxide detectors that is connected to my security system so if anything goes wrong, the security monitoring company will be calling the fire department.

[budm]

Re: Looking for resistor

VA vs WATTS:
http://switchon.eaton.com/power-esse...FQqIfgodsG8JNw

http://electronicdesign.com/energy/w...d-volt-amperes