At times I got to clean corrosion caused by air from the sea of a board and I was wondering what you use to clean such corrosion? The fancy contact cleaners, PCB cleaners and 98% isopropyl alcohol I have tried before are irritating to especially my eyes and I don't even want to think what all those toxic fumes are doing to my lungs and getting a face respirator with oxygen tanks and all to use each time I want to clean a board is just rediculous. The cleaners and alcohol also leave a residu behind that's very hard to get rid of or make the board look dull and not glossy anymore. There must be something more safer for me and the boards to use?
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Last edited by Neelix; 02-05-2015, 04:02 AM. -
Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
The same goes for flux cleaners. Toxic and harsh chemicals that are harmfull to my health
Last edited by Neelix; 02-05-2015, 04:40 AM. -
Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
IPA is flux cleaner, your supposed to use it in a vented area - or outdoors.
got a foto of the type of stuff your trying to clean off?Comment
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Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
The white residue left after IPA use is harmless just wipe off I am not sure what to use for your situation salt water damage is very corrosive I have always use IPA and no harm to me I am 67 still gotng strong.Comment
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Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
Which is more dangerous, isopropanol or acetone that eats through polystyrene and many plastics...
Funny thing is that acetone is actually a metabolic intermediate...Comment
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Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
acetone takes the paint off resistors - i wont touch it for that reason.Comment
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Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
Have you tried Deoxit? It doesn't seem to leave too much behind and does a fair job on corrosion.Comment
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Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
If it ain't broke, dont fix it, in my opinion when dealing with water/saltwater damage. If you can't wash it off with distilled water, better leave a sleeping dog lie. The corrosion you see may be what's left of your tracks and IC pins...Comment
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Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
I found that cleaning battery terminals in a rechargeable solar garden light with vinegar helped fix a contact problem since the rechargeable battery inside leaked, then I gave them a clean with metho.My first choice in quality Japanese electrolytics is Nippon Chemi-Con, which has been in business since 1931... the quality of electronics is dependent on the quality of the electrolytics.Comment
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Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
vinegar destroys alkaline crystals from battery leakage, i often use on on stuff like tv remotes.
you should really flush the vinegar off afterwards though.Comment
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Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
Would an ultrasonic cleaner work for something like that?------------signature starts here------------
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Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
to remove the alkaline, or the vinegar?
using vinegar on battery leaks does not simply remove it, it eats it leaving just hydrogen gas.Comment
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Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
2nd eccerrComment
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Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
Vinegar fumes (acetic acid) can be irritating to your airways in high concentrations so if you use a lot ventilate appropriately. Fortunately if it smells too strong then it is probably too strong. I've used it to help clean oxidization but it's no magic "TarnX" type solution, it required scrubbing with a toothbrush, then rinsed with warm water, allowed to dry and/or hit with canned air and a hair dryer. IPA isn't going to do much to corrosion based on my experience.Comment
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Re: Cleaning corrosion from boards
Solvents that will leave no residue are Trichlorethane or Trichlorethylene. Thrichlorethane was stop in 1996. These chemicals are toxic to the nervous system. But they are the only ones that will leave no residue. I used these chemicals to clean miniature boards that work at a current of 1 X10 -14 amperes. Most applications do not require the boards be cleaned that well. Isopropyl Alcohol is a relative safe to use in small quantities with out a hood fan. It will turn the board white a little, electrically it should be fine unless you have a circuit that is extremely sensitive to any type of residue left. Of what I have learned is all other cleaners will leave residue except the two I have mentioned above.Last edited by keeney123; 07-13-2015, 11:51 PM.Comment
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I have three identical-spec 820-01700 boards (2.6/32/512), and ALL THREE boards came to us with the same fault, from different sources: The boards don't wake from hibernation with the keyboard or lid, they ONLY wake when you press the power button. I understand this is a very minor issue, but the boards must be fixed!
We will of course begin with the obvious (checking lid signals), but I couldn't help but notice these three boards were all 32GB variants. Has anyone noticed an issue relating to these 32GB boards in particular? I of course don't think it's a RAM issue, but it's bizarre... -
We've now created a stack of 10 boards that have the same issue, which we suspect to be CPU-related. The issue is very simple--the board will not boot to anything, only showing the exclamatory sign inside a circle. No amount of DFU/restore, wipe/erase, etc, will resolve the issue. No boards have physical damage. We went ahead and replaced the SSD nands on two boards (one 02020, one 02016) and the issue remained exactly the same. We are considering replacing the CPU on one of the boards using a locked CPU, just so we can see if it resolves the issue.
Has anyone else run into this... -
I'm looking to upgrade several 8GB 820-00850 boards to 16GB or 32GB for personal use. I am curious what the best practice and process is for sourcing new replacement chips, and what vendor(s) you guys prefer? Another question is, how do I find compatible chips and their corresponding part/model numbers? For example, in the 820-00850 schematic, the DDR chip U2600 model listed (EDFB232A1MA) corresponds to 1x32GB chip. Of course, I would need 4x8GB chips to replace the 4x2GB chips currently on the board. How do I find compatible 8GB chips? Is it as simple as searching "BGA178 8GB 2133"...
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Hi,
I'm trying to resurrect a LG OLED C1 TV that has some panel banding. I used the TCON error bypass to get a picture. I was able to update the firmware as well. But when I performed a pixel cleaning to try to get the banding out, it made the image significantly worse. I tried to undo the effects of the pixel cleaning by performing a factory reset and IN_Stop, but that didn't work. Any way to reset pixel cleaning data?... -
Hi friends, last week I got 3 same boards for repair (NM-D562 Rev. 3.0), same problem, power button light up, but motherboard wont start.
3,3V_alw and 5V_alw, 1,8V_alw and 0,75V_alw presented on all 3 boards, no other voltages. 1,2V missing and if I checked schematic right, I need 1,2V and than can be +3VS and +5VS generated after getting SUSP_N signal from KBC? or vise versa?
I checked for low resistance on coils, no low resistance.
Anyone with same issue like me?
Thanks for any help.
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