Philips 42PFL5432D/37

[PoteauPets]

I Came across this website today when I began searching for recall info for my 42" Philips Flat Screen. The problem started a month ago. The t.v. just goes black, but I still have sound. I can turn the tv off and then back on and it is fine, for a short time and then "poof" out it goes again.
I have been reading all the posts from others about the same tv with the same problems. I have taken the tv off the wall, taken off the back, and taken pictures. I was disappointed to find that the caps were not bloated, but from what I read they could still be bad, right?
Can anyone help me/ direct me to where to order the caps? I have never done any soldering, but otherwise am fairly handy for a woman....=) I'm sure I can do this with a little guidance and maybe some words of wisdom from you guys.
The info on the 3 caps on the left is as follows:
capXon 1500uF35v
The info for the other cap on the right is:
capXon 2200uF16v
P727
Vent
I'm uploading pics for your inspection and eagerly await your replies. Thanks in advance for the help.
I've tried several times to upload my pics but for some reason it won't let me. Yes, they are the correct size, and I even tried to zip them just to be sure. I will try to post the pics again tomorrow.

[bbjunkie]

Are you using the "Manage Attachments" button just below the Submit Reply button?

Click on "Post reply" on the bottom left just below my post then look below the Submit Reply button.

Jim

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by PoteauPets

I've tried several times to upload my pics but for some reason it won't let me.

See my sig file below for instructions.

[PoteauPets]

Resized the pics again. I have more if needed. Thanks..=)

[PoteauPets]

Originally Posted by PoteauPets

The info on the 3 caps on the left is as follows:
capXon 1500uF35v
The info for the other cap on the right is:
capXon 2200uF16v
P727
Vent

Thanks everyone

[retiredcaps]

1) To the left off your board board, there is a green board. It is probably the inverter board. We will need a picture of it.

2) We prefer pictures in this composition (top down)

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpos...94&postcount=1

3) Do you have a multimeter?

[PoteauPets]

No, I don't have a multi-meter. Here are the pictures of the inverter board. As far as I can see, everything appears to be okay.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by PoteauPets

No, I don't have a multi-meter. Here are the pictures of the inverter board. As far as I can see, everything appears to be okay.

1) That picture says "Master" which implies a "slave" probably on the other side. We will need a picture of that too.

2) It looks like the capacitors on the bottom of the Master board are Rubycon. They are good caps so they are unlikely to be the problem.

3) See if you can borrow a multimeter from someone. Without one, troubleshooting will be very limited.

[PoteauPets]

Thanks for helping........=) Here are the pics of the "slave" side. Looks okay to the untrained eye.
I do have a tester, although I have no idea how to use it.......

[retiredcaps]

Post a picture of your multimeter. We can walk you through it.

[PoteauPets]

Here it is...........

[retiredcaps]

1) Clarification on the "poof". How long does the screen stay on before it goes to black? 1 second, 1 minute, 1 hours?

2) If your screen is going black and there is still sound, the problem could be the following:

a) The main board is turning off the backlights for some reason via some backlight on/off pin.

b) There is something wrong with the inverter boards. It could be a bad inverter transformer, shorted mosfet, etc.

c) The power going to the inverter board may be unstable due to bad caps on the power supply.

3) While an analog meter can measure a) and c), however the accuracy may not be good enough for b). We need to be able to accurately measure the resistance of secondary inverter transformer pins within 3%.

a) and c) must be done with power on. b) is done with power off and tv unplugged from the ac outlet.

4) Can you borrow a digital multimeter?

[PoteauPets]

Clarifiying the "poof"
When the tv has been off all day and turned on for the first time, I may get anywhere from 45-60 minutes before it goes out. And yes, when it goes out I still have sound and the power light is still on. I did notice the last few times that it went out, the picture seemed to disappear into the bottom left corner, and then everything went black.
Then when I turn it off and then back on again, I may get 10-30 mins. before it goes out again. It seems that once it gets "warmed up" the more frequently it goes off.
What can I test with the meter that I have on hand now ? I will see if I can find a "digital one" but that probably won't be until tomorrow.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by PoteauPets

What can I test with the meter that I have on hand now ?

1) Let's make sure your analog multimeter is working and calibrated. Take a fresh AA battery. A fresh one should measure above 1.5 V and close to 1.6 V DC.

2) Set your multimeter to the 10 DCV setting.

3) Put your red probe on the positive end of the AA battery and the black to the negative. Your needle should swing and it should read around 1.5 V. As you can see from this simple test, you won't get too much resolution. On a digital multimeter, it might read something like 1.534 V.

Assuming the above tests fine you can now measure the TV voltage.

1) First safety. The power board can carry voltages as high as 330 V DC. Avoid touching the power supply including the heat sinks. The heat sinks are likely "live".

2) You will need to run the TV with the cover off.

3) Power on your TV.

4) Set your multimeter to the 250 DCV setting. Don't worry, we are NOT measuring 250 V. Since the master and slave boards are clearly marked 24 V, we cannot leave the multimeter setting on 10 V and thus must use the next highest range.

5) On the diagram below, put your red probe on one of the red pins (marked with red "paint" line). It doesn't matter which one. Just be sure to touch only one pin otherwise you could create a short and cause more damage to the TV (which might be big $$$).

6) Put your black probe on the ground screw (circled in black). This is your ground.

7) The multimeter should read around 24 V DC when the screen is on.

8) When the screen goes off, leave the TV on, and re-measure those same two points. If it is still 24 V DC, then the power board is likely good. If it is not 24 V DC, report the reading.

9) Do steps 5, 6, 7, and 8 for both master and slave.

10) If these instructions are NOT clear, ask for clarification.

[PoteauPets]

Okay, did the battery test as instructed, reading was perfect.
Now on to the next step. Will report back shortly.
Thanks again Mr. RetiredCaps.............=)

[PoteauPets]

Just tested both Master & Slave sides and they both registered about 25 each.
Now, since it's not been on all day, I have to wait for it to heat up and kick itself off.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by PoteauPets

Now, since it's not been on all day, I have to wait for it to heat up and kick itself off.

Another possibility that I didn't mention is possibly poor solder joints somewhere causing the screen to go off. Or some heating problem?

Anyway, we need to eliminate one at a time.

[PoteauPets]

Well, it made it right about 30 minutes and kicked itself off. Re-tested both slave and master side with power still plugged in and got nothing. The needle didn't move on either side.
Is this good or bad ??? What can I do next ?

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by PoteauPets

Re-tested both slave and master side with power still plugged in and got nothing. The needle didn't move on either side.

1) So just to confirm, when the TV went off, you left it "on".

2) If correct and you got no voltage (i.e. 0.0 V), then that implies the power or main board is shutting down for some reason.

3) Is the power LED still on when the tv goes black? If yes, what color is it.

4) We will probably need a picture of the main board (where the hdmi, rca, component cables are).

[PlainBill]

A couple of points I'd like clarified - when the screen goes dark do the backlights remain in or go off? If they go off, can you see a faint image on the screen when you shine a bright light on it?

The picture disappearing sounds like tcon, the lack of voltage to the inverters you mentioned above sounds like power supply.

PlainBill