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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Ok, got her back together, now its displaying the symptoms other have complaint about... The green power light comes on steady and its chirping, still no picture/no sound... Crud!!Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Reviewing other posts two bad diodes where the cause of this. Should I try replacing them also with part http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...ACT-ND/2770358 ?Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I don't, but I will have to pick one up tomorrow.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I am sending my hubby to walmart after he gets off of work to pick up the one you suggested in a earlier post ... Equus 3300 hands free multimeter.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
WOW, I thought I had been seeing things because I had a hard time finding it myself. It was in the philips post regarding no picture, chirping. OP was twlztid and it was post #10 Re: Phillips 42PFL5432D/37 Chirping and No Picture
Quote:
Originally Posted by tw1ztid
I don't have a multi-meter or any experience with one.
There are 2 SMD fuses on each inverter board for a total of 4. If they are open (bad), then your backlight won't turn on.
If you don't have money, try to borrow a multimeter from someone to test the fuse and diodes as Mr Bill as pointed out.
If you live close to a Wal-Mart, they have this multimeter
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Equus-3300...meter/14644665
for $12.
Or if you prefer ebay, this one is $10 + free shiping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150668723235
Both are beginner multimeters, but will do the job required for your purposes.
My personal choice would be the Uni-T. PS. I have no affiliation or experience with the seller.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I believed you, I just didn't remember in what context. (It didn't help that I was searching for "Equus" and the search engine didn't find it in the URL).
I happened to be in the "local" electronics store today and saw the same UT33C for $29.99 CDN. I couldn't believe the markup when an USA seller sells the same product for $10 + free shipping. I went into the store because their sign advertised a "gigantic" blowout with prices up to 90% off. Talk about major false advertising.Last edited by retiredcaps; 01-30-2012, 09:35 PM.--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
That particular multimeter (Equus) will work, right?
That markup is crazy, WOW!!! I see that you prefer the Uni-T but I don't have the patience to wait for it. I used to have an amazing multimeter, I believe it was a craftsman back when I was taking Automotive Technology (1995). However, one day when I was at work my "X"- Husband sold all of my tools to the local pawn shop, and it happened to be in with them
Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
OK great, Thanks!!!Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Just got done checking diodes;
Diode zd904 reads 034 (both directions)
Diode zd902 reads 061 (both directions)
These are the two diodes that are on the power board.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
tom66, that is what I thought, I checked some others and they read up on the 600 one way and 1 the other.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I also tested a few other diodes;
Diode D925 is reading 096
Diode D912 is reading 001
Are these bad or are the just appear bad because of the other two bad diodes?Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
you might have to desolder the diodes to get an accurate reading but my monies on the ZD902 & ZD904 being bad. 3 or 4 times now in about 30 days i've seen the chirping transformer on a philips lcd. It seems the diode failing with the capacitors on this power supply design is starting to become problematic.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Mr Bill, thank you for all of your help. I will test these out of the board as well.Comment
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Philips 8200 series 65PUS8204/12 stuck at Philips Logo, it does not reboot it just stays on the logo.
It does power up when pressing the power button.
I already try the power button while plugin the plug with no result.
Also put the latest firmware autorun-TPM191E_R.001.004.100.000.upg on a MBR/FAT32 USB stick at USB port2 with no result either.
Could this be an PSU or eMMC issue ? -
I have a Philips TV that shows no signs of life when plugged in - no standby LED, no response to buttons, no noises, nothing. This model is well known for having bad caps, so I started by replacing a few of them (3x 35v 1500uf and 1x 2200uf 16v). I don't know the history of the TV but it looks like someone's been at it before because some of the solder joints looked really bad, so I re soldered them as well.
After swapping the caps I still got no signs of life so I started checking voltages, and found that the board is supplying 24v but not 12v. Here's what I measured on the connector... -
Hello,
I've got a really strange issue with the speakers on my Philips 43PUS7506/12. It makes this awful loud buzzing now. It happened after it was attempted to be wall mounted - I think the back got squeezed and something broke.
I thought maybe the speakers got damaged, so I replaced them - no dice.- Using the internal speakers, it always happens.
- Using the headphone jack, it never happens.
- Using the digital/optical out with a soundbar - it happens after about 2h/movie runtime - it's never as drastic, it just pops in and out, but I didn't want it to damage the sound bar
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Hello Team,
New issue on LCD panel where I need to find out the cause and the potential solution.
This is on the Philips 50PUH6400, the LCD panel is an INNOLUX V500dk2 xrs1.
I have image, on the right side, the image is more or less normal even if there is a small blur on edge, on the left there is an issue.
When moving up and down in the menu on the right the image is slow to disappear, and is darker, like red/brown.
I've checked voltages, no issue found comparing right and left side of the panel driver.
VHG VGL CKV... are the sames on... -
Hello partners.
Could someone tell me how to make this Philips TV source work without the mainboard being connected? The model of the board is EAX65423701 (2.1) and the model of the Philips TV is 40PFH40009/88.
The TV is dead, there is no standby light, however there is a voltage of 12v on the pins ( included 12v VAU ) and 3.2v on the PS-ON pin (see photo) when the power board is connected to the main board. If I disconnect both boards I only get 8 volts on 12v pins. I would like to rule out a fault in the main board by making it work, but so far no one has been able to tell...
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