Got a VP6 yesterday with missing BIOS chip. Put a chip on the board but the POST card doesn't show any signs of booting. The caps (mostly Tayeh, but also found two 470uF 25V Robycon ZL-s - probably someone has already replaced some caps?) have no signs of damage. Does anybody have any suggestions on what to pay special attention when doing further research?
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first it should be recapped.
do any inductors show signs of overheating?
vcore present and correct?
sure you have the correct bios?
i have had several vp6's with bad flashes caused by lockup from bad caps.
sounds like it at least has a chance.
if it is over your head tc or i can likely fix it. -
^^
agreed. Check all the above, and it should show some signs of life if voltages are present, and the BIOS has a valid image on it.<--- Badcaps.net Founder
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Thanks for the suggestions.
I guess I found what's wrong with the board:
So I guess it cannot be repaired
The CPU that was in that socket:
Attached FilesLast edited by willawake; 05-27-2005, 01:38 PM.Comment
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That looks like an interesting project to tackle.
Wish I could get a component list for the VP6."Its all about the boom....."
Guns kill people like spoons made Rosie O'Donnell fat.
We now return you to your regularly scheduled drinking.
"Fear accompanies the possibility of death.....calm shepherds its certainty"
Originally posted by TopcatComment
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if it nuked the cpu the damage is likely bad enough to scrap it.
tc sent me one that was that bad with everything fixed but the northbridge.
i changed it and it posted but has other damage.
everything served by that vrm is toast.Comment
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The CPU was actually able to POST. The board isn't mine anymore so that's the end of the story.Comment
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I've worked on more than a few of these boards and the outlined parts in red seemed to be the most common. These board vary in parts, especially the number of relays on them. The part numbers listed in the title are examples.
These boards (like most appliance boards nowadays) have a kind of protective shellac coated on them. I use professional strength Good Off on solder joins to remove what I can so I can get good contact with my meter leads.
A schematic exists showing what each relay is responsible but I don't have that handy right now.... -
Hi everyone, I recently acquired an HP EliteBook 840 G4 (6050A2854301-MB-A01) that I'm hoping to bring back to life. I'm fairly new to laptop repairs but eager to learn and willing to put in the effort to understand and fix this. Any advice or guidance would mean a lot!
What Happened
The issue started when the laptop was accidentally plugged in with reverse polarity. Before this incident, the laptop would show a power/charging light whenever it was plugged in. However, now it's completely unresponsive—no lights, no power, nothing. I've been doing some research and understand... -
Hi all
Hope this is in the correct place.
I'm planning on recapping both motherboards. I actually already ordered recplament caps for them, where I will be changing out most for poly's.
Could use some double checking to see if I'm not doing something stupid.
Pictures of the boards are attached.
What I will be replacing with what : (planned)
Soltek Golden ::
4 1500µF 16V 10mm (5mmL) KZG => APSG160ELL152MJ16S (Chemi-Con 1500µF 16V)
6 3300µF 6.3V 10mm (5mmL) KZG => APSG160ELL272MJ20S (Chemi-Con 2700µF 16V)... -
I have a question - I have replaced the PSU on my own iMac Pro. However, when removing the motherboard I knocked of a 120 OHM 30% 0.3A small surface mount common mode inductor/filter (~0602 size) in the ethernet circuit near the female RJ45 port.
The closest match I can find on Mouser is 120 OHM common mode inductor at 100MHz - my question is this frequency correct for a motherboard? The schematic for the motherboard only provides '120 OHM 30% 0.3A' and the TDK part number does not return anything in google.
Sorry, I am not experienced hence a basic question.
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Greetings,
I have an Abit BE6-II motherboard that posts sporadically with the bare minimum components installed - CPU, RAM, PSU, and a Keyboard. I know it posts when the speaker beeps. Re-seating the components has no effect.
I thought the sporadic posting might be capacitor related. Upon inspection, non of the caps are bulged or leaking and they are all original. So, I pulled them ALL. While the ESR is OK, over half of them are leaking current between 1 and 2 mA. The biggest offenders are way out of spec, like a 1500uf / 6.3V measuring 2600uF and many of the 820uF caps...
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