The ghetto mod thread

[Dan81]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

If a now dead HP DV7-1205eg that has had two coins used as shims counts, then I'm happy.

I'll replace the crappy AMD board with a Intel anyways, so there's a good thing to come out of it.

[momaka]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

Had to cut this hole to help fitting the new battery in, under the cd-drive. HP Probook 6460b.
For the cost saving, I just put the wires under a piece of shrink-tube.

Nice! That can double as a ventilation hole too (or a secret pocket to hide something?)

I accidentally threw away the original dvd-drive, so I had to cut this one to fit. The first similarly cut one didn't fit...

Franken-top complete. I like the mismatching colored plastics too.
But hey, it works, that's all that matters. Most of my computers are full of ghetto mods like this, as I simply don't care about looks and only about function. Besides, if it looks too janky, people will be afraid to use my PC and stay away... and good theft deterrent.

[Xenon-Codex]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

I accidentally threw away the original dvd-drive, so I had to cut this one to fit. The first similarly cut one didn't fit...

[Xenon-Codex]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

Had to cut this hole to help fitting the new battery in, under the cd-drive. HP Probook 6460b.
For the cost saving, I just put the wires under a piece of shrink-tube.

[momaka]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

Just the Allied, and the PCI-E was connected to the Allied PSU only. I took care to take one of the units that I modified and know well that I have a real ERL-35 main transformer, as well as upgraded sillicon. Still worried trusting it with anything higher than a HD 4850 or anything in the mid range of 5000 (e.g 5770) when it comes to using PCI-E cables. Especially with a Q6600 alongside no less.

That sounds about where I would be drawing the line too.
Q6600, OC-ed or not, can peak up to 130-140 Watts probably. HD4850 and mid-range HD5k (i.e. HD5770) are also another 100-110 Watts. So that's roughly 240-250 Watts on the 12V (at max load) already, which comes out to about 20 Amps... and probably the maximum the output (5V/12V coupled) inductor can handle safely on those Deer/L&C/Allied/Solytech PSUs.

No flashy colors or anything. Missing characters, and I already found three missing MLCCs on the back before. While two were probably not that important (near the HDMI/miniDP ports) the last one was around one of the RAM chips so definitely had to do with the missing characters. Those were about the only ones missing, and I figure that at least fixing the RAM cap should make it work.

:\
Well, I do hope that you turn out to be right. But from what I've seen, missing characters is related to BGA failure (typically between GPU die and substrate PCB.) So I don't think that one cap will be the problem especially if it's just a V_dd filter for the RAM. One way to tell: if the spot for that missing cap shows same resistance to ground as the RAM V_dd rail, then it's on the V_dd rail, and it missing shouldn't be a big enough deal to cause those failures.

I'm surprised, there's always a risk when doing this, hence this is why it's ghetto. Depending on the circuit, if you don't power them up at the right time...

It actually shouldn't be that much of a big deal... though it does depend on the video card's VRM a little.

If the 2nd PSU (for the GPU) powers On and is ready before the PSU used for the system, then the video card will just sit, waiting for an enable signal from the motherboard via PCI-E or AGP bus... and will power On, once the mobo boots and that comes up.

Now, if the 2nd PSU (for the GPU) takes a little longer to reach proper voltages before the PSU for the system, there is a chance the GPU may not see full and/or proper voltage for the GPU VRM... which may or may not be a problem. But in most cases, most GPUs are overbuilt enough that either the VRM won't start if the voltage is too low, or it will start and cope with the slightly lower voltage now-turning-normal as the 2nd PSU comes up properly.

So it really isn't that much of a risk. Just tie the PS-ON signal on both PSUs together, that is usually enough. For those who want a more elaborate ghetto solution (that's a funny oxymoron, isn't it? ), it would also be a good idea to come up with an AND circuit that takes the PG signal from both PSUs and feeds it to the motherboard as one signal. That way, if one PSU looses regulation or shuts off, motherboard PG signal will be lost and mobo will signal hardware to shut down.

[Dan81]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

It's only the Allied that was plugged in. The no-name Deer PSU above it (which I rebuilt, upgraded sillicon, recapped as well as replaced the snipped wires it had using cables from a dead Thermaltake TR2-420NP) was used to test a older mobo (Jetway J-7BXAN). The Allied used here DOES have the PCI-E contraption still attached to it but it's been put to storage for quite a period now.

[eccerr0r]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

Yes using two PSUs when one doesn't have a single 1KW PSU on hand...

I'm surprised, there's always a risk when doing this, hence this is why it's ghetto. Depending on the circuit, if you don't power them up at the right time...

[Dan81]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

You kiddin'?!
Using 2 PSUs to power a beefy GPU always counts as ghetto!
Also, I think you deserve bonus points for having one of the 6-pin PCI-E power connectors being plugged straight into the 12V of two Molex drive connectors, lol. High-current draw from a questionable connection is always a sure way to make a smoke show.... errr... I mean, to have a fun time!

Oh no no no. I wasn't using the other one. Just the Allied, and the PCI-E was connected to the Allied PSU only. I took care to take one of the units that I modified and know well that I have a real ERL-35 main transformer, as well as upgraded sillicon. Still worried trusting it with anything higher than a HD 4850 or anything in the mid range of 5000 (e.g 5770) when it comes to using PCI-E cables. Especially with a Q6600 alongside no less.

Sadly, I suspect you'll find it probably isn't the MLCCs causing the artifacts - not unless you have bad MLCCs on a data line to RAM and not V_dd / V_core filters. One way to tell is how the artifacts look like - if they move around or change colors, it's probably just a dud GPU chip... which is very common for HD7k, IME.

No flashy colors or anything. Missing characters, and I already found three missing MLCCs on the back before. While two were probably not that important (near the HDMI/miniDP ports) the last one was around one of the RAM chips so definitely had to do with the missing characters. Those were about the only ones missing, and I figure that at least fixing the RAM cap should make it work.

[momaka]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

Again, not sure if ghetto, but this is how I am currently testing a 7870.

You kiddin'?!
Using 2 PSUs to power a beefy GPU always counts as ghetto!
Also, I think you deserve bonus points for having one of the 6-pin PCI-E power connectors being plugged straight into the 12V of two Molex drive connectors, lol. High-current draw from a questionable connection is always a sure way to make a smoke show.... errr... I mean, to have a fun time!

Will also test it on a UEFI board since it was showing artefacts and I suspect it being from some of the MLCCs going bad.

Sadly, I suspect you'll find it probably isn't the MLCCs causing the artifacts - not unless you have bad MLCCs on a data line to RAM and not V_dd / V_core filters. One way to tell is how the artifacts look like - if they move around or change colors, it's probably just a dud GPU chip... which is very common for HD7k, IME.

[Dan81]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

Again, not sure if ghetto, but this is how I am currently testing a 7870. Didn't want to work on it untested (has few bodge-job MLCCs by me which I'd like to rectify as much as I can on the backside) so I threw in a testbench using a old Q6600 combo I had. Will also test it on a UEFI board since it was showing artefacts and I suspect it being from some of the MLCCs going bad.





Specs:

Allied AL-8400BTX (modified)
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600
3GB DDR3
250GB Seagate HDD from an external enclosure (which shows up as healthy in HDSentinel)

[momaka]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

PSU in my firewall system died

The HiPro "tank" is dead?!
Time to open it and post pics.
If yes, I suspect bad caps, as ChaosLegionnaire suggested might happen when you run these systems 24/7.

had to bodge in this HP one. Had to dangle it out the back because the wiring comes out on the wrong side.

Oh I have a similar Bestec PSU. I think these were meant for "side-saddle" cases (where the PSU is mounted on the side of the case, typically above the CPU heatsink or the PCI slots.)

[eccerr0r]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

LOL that sucks I thought that ATX had a standard on where the wire emerges from the PSU case. Then again I have another "ATX" PSU that doesn't seem to match any existing bolt patterns so it doesn't fit anything. Shame too, it seems like a well constructed 200W unit. Might be the same issue.

[TechGeek]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

PSU in my firewall system died, had to bodge in this HP one. Had to dangle it out the back because the wiring comes out on the wrong side.

[momaka]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

anyone have any ghetto mods that would qualify for both this and https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=63483 threads at the same time?

Oh, I'm sure I have a lot of qualifiers if I sit down to think about them. However, this old TV PSU PCB repair that I posted a while back is an easy YES to both threads. Obviously I didn't posted it in the worthless repair thread, because it didn't exist back then. As far as the repaired TV board linked above... still haven't done anything with it, other than used it a few times to test junk speakers and whatnot. So it was pretty much a worthless repair and quite ghetto too. But I enjoyed it, nevertheless. And yes, that PCB still works and hasn't fallen apart, lol.

Now that aside.... does anyone have a -triple- qualifier worthless repair / ghetto mod that also could fit in the Your Video Card Cooling Mods thread?
I know that thread might seem like a redundant and also niche blast-off from this thread... but really the main idea behind it was to be slightly more technical, showing off not only self-made cooler mods, but also how they actually improved (or not?) the cooling performance.

On that note, I do have a lot of stuff (GPU cooler mods) that have accumulated for that thread. But it all depends in which "cycle" I'm in - sometimes in the year, I'm into GPU repair and mods, and other times I'm into PSU repairs... yet other times into something else, and etc.

[lti]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

anyone have any ghetto mods that would qualify for both this and https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=63483 threads at the same time?

Everything I posted in both threads qualifies.

[eccerr0r]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

anyone have any ghetto mods that would qualify for both this and https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=63483 threads at the same time?

[eccerr0r]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

Ah... The elite bung looks the same on both sides, so I had a choice on which side to glue.... I was wondering about the other caps I had to swipe rubber from.

Likewise this cap was basically already dry.

[momaka]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

Well as said I had to do the same ghettomod.

Oh no, I've started a trend.
Let's see how many laptops will suffer from this ghetto mod now.

And here's our patient... a Centrino 1.6GHz laptop with 1.5GB of RAM.

That's funny. Same era / similar laptop for the same ghetto mod.

Seems to have a nice bung like the Sacon FX...

Actually, the part of the bung you see on my Sacon FZ is the part that was on the *inside* of the cap. The outside part had two ridges, similar to United Chemicon caps, but flipped 90 degrees relative to the feet. I thought that would look odd as the surface of the rubber foot, so I flipped the bung the other way around.

So the first attempt is to massage it to make it drop its bung. The cap of course is crimped so rolling it along to massage and make the aluminum can a bit flatter so the bung would slide out.

I opened my cap with side / diagonal cutter pliers. First I grab the rolled edge above the bung with the pliers and then rotate / unroll it. After that, I use the pliers to pull out / widen the rolled part that squishes on the rubber bung. Once that is done, I pop the bung out with a small needle or tack.

I just need to figure out some good adhesive so it won't come out again...

Most laptops use ABS plastic for the body shell, so CA glue might work really well, as it dissolves (or at least partially) ABS and also works well on rubber.

If not, rubber cement / contact cement glue (i.e. gunk / orange "bubble gum" glue) is when trying to glue anything to anything. It doesn't make a very strong bond - as in, it's not solid. But due to contact cement being flexible and also being able to withstand wide temperature variations (in addition to being sticky like gunk / bubble gum) can make it hold better over time than CA sometimes. CA makes a rigid bond... but if you try to flex it one too many times or expose it to water and/or temperature variations, it will crack and let go.

Not sure if it counts as a ghetto mod, but had to solder a missing fan cable on a Pentium 3 450MHz.

Hey, at least you used a proper fan cable. I'm always short on those (seems that I've been finding one too many stripped fans over the years and not enough 3-pin cables), so a few times I've used less-than-orthodox cables.

Also, funny you changed the topic specifically to slot CPUs. I was just working on something in that area the other day and have something to post on this topic. Stay tuned (perhaps later tonight or tomorrow??)

[TechGeek]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

Looks too professional to be a ghetto mod.

[Dan81]

Re: The ghetto mod thread

Not sure if it counts as a ghetto mod, but had to solder a missing fan cable on a Pentium 3 450MHz.