Re: Just a little bulge = bad caps?
Philips/Vishay/BC Components is a GOOD brand
Philips/Vishay/BC Components is a GOOD brand
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Re: Just a little bulge = bad caps?
and pretty expensive too!Comment
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Re: Just a little bulge = bad caps?
I've seen BC bad.
Don't use Vishay unless there is no other option - they bought tens of brands (incl. very crappy manufacturers) over the years, manufacturing quality was not constant even before and now when you have no idea who makes what and where under that corporation, I would not buy anything from Vishay anymore. Never seen 500 % overrated schottky rectifiers dying in massive scale as Vishay ones in HP LP2475 (IIRC) displays. That just does not show quality manufacturer!
I can get new Nichicon GY 105°C long-life snap-in caps being made in up to 10000 uF/63 V (or 15000 uF/50 V) for I think not bad price a piece, BUT the MOQ is not that nice as was (supposedly) at first (200, now 400 pcs) and still it is BIG money. So if anybody is interested, I can manage group buy with a few ppl, but money first and we have to do at least 100 pcs here.Last edited by Behemot; 07-08-2015, 04:18 PM.Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry!
Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts 
Exclusive caps, meters and more!Hardware Insights - power supply reviews and more!Comment
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Good day everyone.
I have on the bench an amp board from DALI SUB E-12F. It is class D amp with a smps on the same board.
The issue is that it powers off way before the rated power is reached (the protection circuit kicks in). It has an independent standby power supply, which stays on after the main power supply is turned off via a relay on the primary side (thus there is no reason to believe that the protection is triggered from the smps IC on the primary side).
The normal value of the positive and negative power rails is +/- 43V.
The positive rail stays... -
Hi guys, this is general query really
So I have a Hill DX3000 3KW audio amplifier here.
It has a topology/design like a class A/B but all the banks of output transistors (10 transistors in each 'side' of the channel) are NPN.
I was wondering what class this is. It doesn't fit the description of class A.
It also doesn't match class A/B or B amplifiers as all the examples I see have a complimentary output stage desigs (NPN/PNP) and clearly is not G, H or D
I looked for 'class A push pull' but that didn't tell me anything either
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For some time, a "Class 2" HDMI cable (part number BN39-01583B) supplied with a Samsung 4K 60 Hz display sometimes causes the display to overlay a few horizontal lines of flickering pixels of random colours and sometimes drops out, particularly on content requring HDCP.
Since changing the cable to a thicker Class 2 unit, this problem has not occured again - do you know of other marginal "Class 2" HDMI cables supplied with displays?09-06-2023, 08:50 PM -
Hi all!
I have a piece of gear with a Power-one SPL130 power supply in it. On the primary side, there is a very tiny (about the size of your thumb nail) RIFA Class Y capacitor, 2.2 nF. I'm not too sure about the condition (whether or not it's cracking) but I do know that it's there.
I'm aggregating information as to how I should remedy this. It hasn't exploded yet, but that's what I'm trying to avoid.
I've never seen a RIFA class Y safety cap self destruct (or at least it hasn't been documented in the past). However, it's not worth the risk to leave it in there.... -
Is a snubbing capacitor fine to use in place of an X2 suppression safety? The only real difference I see is that the dV/dt is around 3 times higher than the recommended Class X2. Is this a positive or negative issue in this turntable audio device? See C601...
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