From an audiosource subwoofer built in 1999. Subwoofer is hums with no RCA line connected to it or when the receiver is off.
Is that stuff glue or busted caps?
Thanks!
Is that stuff glue or busted caps?
Thanks!
Attached Files
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
Bad capsPlease upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740 -
Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
Looks related to Anodia caps..Comment
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
Looks like they're right after the bridge rectifier, maybe used to create a split power supply.
It's possible there's quite some ripple from the transformer coming into the caps - replace them with a good brand capacitors (panasonic, nippon chemi con, nichicon) and consider replacing them with 35v rated ones, those will handle larger ripple better..Comment
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
that your hum right there.replace all of them.Comment
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
I replaced those 2 with 470uF 35V RadioShack ones (only ones i could get on short notice)
Hum is definitely improved, but still present. The other caps didn't look to have any issuesComment
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
If your not going to follow the advice given, there is little point in our trying to help?Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740Comment
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
I'm sorry, the only advice I saw last night before I replaced them was "Bad caps" so I replaced them.
Is the RadioShack brand bad? Should I replace the rest of the caps on the PCB even though they don't have signs of failure?
I've attached the schematic. I *think* I replaced C7 and C18Attached FilesComment
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
You mean c17 and c18 .. it's the two by the bridge rectifier D1.
Radioshack buys general purpose capacitors from various companies and rebrands them.
They're generally not suited for use in locations that are subjected to excess heat or ripple, or if they need to be low esr.
It may work now, but they may go bad sooner or later.
If you're going to buy a proper set, I recommend also changing the capacitors after the linear regulators , C15 and C16 ... both 100uF 16v. Replace them with 100uF 25v, preferrably Panasonic FC, FM, FR, Nichicon HM, Nippon Chemi Con KZE
The reason is mostly because those two ICs U5 and U6 are linear regulators, which means they take 14-16v and output stable +12v and -12v but the difference is dissipated as heat into the area around.
If those 100uF 16v are near the linear regulators, they would be constantly under heat from those ICs. Going to 25v is not required, as the capacitors will only see 12v on them, but usually capacitors rated for 25v are just a bit larger and more resistant to heat. From the pictures, it looks like you can fit slightly larger capacitors.
Check the badcaps online store, should find both these capacitor values+voltage ratings or use digikey.com / newark.com etcComment
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
I don't know about yours but my local Radio Shack only has Lelon caps on hand, which are trash, so if they are those I'd buy some better ones like already suggested.Comment
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
Sorry for the delay, got a little sidetracked.
Anyway, I replaced C15 and C16 with 100uF 25V. Hum is still the same
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
Ok, I can try replacing those. Any others?Comment
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
Check the ones that are close to the speaker output connectors - follow the leads from the connectors towards the insides and check those for capacity and resistance (if you don't have an esr meter)
Just on a rough and fast look I see there C8, c11, c14, c24... might as well replace c6 though it should cause issues...
I see mainly 4.7 uF 16v, 100uF 16v and 100uF 35v - you can replace all 100uF with 100uF 35v or 50v (if you get a better price for getting a 5 pack or 10 pack, you know what i mean), and it wouldn't hurt replacing the 4.7uF ones with higher voltage rating caps.
They're all small in capacity and cheap, all shouldn't be more than 3$ or so at digikey but for this one you can probably use the cheap radioshack capacitors if you don't want to spend a lot.
Without an ESR meter it's hard to pinpoint exact issues, or something to measure if the capacitors leak, letting DC go through to the speakers.Last edited by mariushm; 09-20-2012, 11:55 AM.Comment
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
Ouch! Wasn't aware of that.
I actually ordered today (among other stuff) 50 pcs x panasonic fm 100uf/25v from Farnell for 39.7 RON ... 11.5 dollars.
I don't know, probably the guy who invented Radioshack is rolling in his grave...Comment
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
These were the caps immediately next to the speaker leads (the red and black wires). Just ordered replacements for them + all those suggested above
Attached FilesLast edited by jamesm113; 10-21-2012, 11:49 PM.Comment
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
Well I replaced all the caps suggested and the two big ones pictured, and there is no improvement
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Re: Bad Soundia Caps?
Is it possible that you have a ground loop somewhere?
Is it buzzing with NO input wires connected?
Have you checked the rectifier diodes to see if they could be leaky?Muh-soggy-kneeComment
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I know I've been a little scarce lately (like the last 2-3 years), but I'm still here and still doing my thing with fixing PSUs.
For today's considerations, I have a Seasonic B12 BC-550 [A551bcafh] 550 Watt ATX power supply for you (click on links for full size images).
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591771
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591772
It's a modern ATX unit with fixed (non-modular) cables and an 80-plus bronze certificate. Here's the label:
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=359177... -
Hello,
First, I am a complete noob with high voltage stuff. I'm learning, but I need help by someone looking over my shoulder.
I recently came into posession of a Heathkit IO-4205 5MHz Dual Trace Oscilloscope. The documentation is copyright 1978. I'm told it works.
I opened it up to check the caps before I applied power, and found the following black caps and wanted to know what they were. They are on the power supply board. I was able to read the name and model and came up with, "Nytronics 162J-1, 0.1uF, 20% tolerance, 2000VDC."
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Hello!
I have two projects on my work bench. One is a friends dead JBL Xtreme speaker with a blown voltage regulator and corresponding bulged and shorted cap. That cap has clear markings so I know what replacement I need for it.
The other project however is a whole different deal. It's a Zoom 9000 guitar effect from the 90th that has developed a devil hound howl when there is no input from the guitar. I'm guessing caps problem. So, since I don't really use this effect anymore I thought it would be a perfect project to learn on.
I have studied the board and... -
I'm trying to repair two old VCRs, they both have bad caps. One has leaky ones, the other would barely run until I subbed in some caps from another power supply I had laying around (though they are the wrong values). This vcr works for an hour or two, but then the power supply starts whining and the picture gets lines in it. I didn't replace all the secondary caps, so another voltage might still be problematic, or the values I used are too far off.
I've been on mouser and digikey but the options are a bit overwhelming. I just need some new ones that will work. They don't need to be top quality,... -
Good evening
I recently aquired a rev 1.1 Gigabyte 60XT, and was suprised of the amount of leaking caps for a motherboard of the P3 era. Especially the way the 330µf caps seems like the housing discolored even.
Now, there are some 3300µF 6.3V KZG series around the CPU. Would it be OK to replace them with something like EEUFR1A332 ? (Panasonic FR 3300µF 10V). Or was this board designed around very low ESR caps?
But I was also suprised about the bigger boys, which are 330µF 25V.
Could it be they used 25V caps because they were cheaper / available at that time?...
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