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Wait on other comments but can only assume that this is 'normal'. Do you see video? Caps key toggle?
There must be a voltage @ R5215 which is acting like a voltage divider to detect the presence of the external power adapter. If you do not, the resistor could be defective.
R5215 is the high side resistor and then there is the low side resistor. Together they divide the 20v from the adapter to a safe voltage for the ISL chip to detect the adapter.You are noting 0v which means the adapter is 'not present' which is incorrect.Comment
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no video on screen. Was before now it’s not. This was before attempted repair to find the issue with the board and DFU restore which worked. Now I don’t see video? I’ll scrap this for now and get back to it tomorrow and check the resistor in question. I’ll get back with you. Thanks mon you been a big help. I feel the CPU is fine, we threw it in the cleaner since it was turning on as we assumed but we were wrong. I’ll figure it out for sure hopefully 🙏
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MEOWING IN THE IMPOSSIBLE UNIVERSE!Comment
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Tested R5215 no short and the resistor is not blown. I am getting 240k ohms when it is seated down on the pad but its at 750k ohms when it is stand alone. So resistor is fine, the low side resistor is showing 250k ohms without issue. I installed a brand new ISL9240HIB3 again and the board is not turning on, I know these are brand new so this isn't the issue. I am not getting shorts on PPBUS_AON. I am looking for a needle in a haystack at this point. I am so confused how this board can decide to just give up after fixing some shorts and it not work anymore.
What is weird I get 20volts at random times and then the resistor gets 5 volts, then when I unplug it and try another USB C port it goes back to 5volts.
Update: so one port is getting 20volts and the other two ports are only getting 5 volts. The port closes to the MagSafe Port is getting 20Volts and .1amps sometimes up to .3 amps. The port below this port is only getting 5 Volts and the far port is 5 volts as well.Last edited by Stephen; 02-18-2025, 11:36 AM.sigpic
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Need full details. R5215 is 20v from the adapter side, but the voltage divider leg is 5 volts? The high & low resistors work to shift down the high voltage of 20v which would kill the ISL9240.I get 20volts at random times and then the resistor gets 5 volts
Is the battery attached? When you do reach 20v, is the current draw immediate @ 0.1A or climbs upto this value?Comment
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So I got the computer to turn back on again. So that's a big PHEW! However battery is not charging when connected to USB C. I am getting 20Volts when connected to battery of course, however I was getting 20volts without battery in the top port closes to the MagSafe port. No charging is happening when plugged into the top port either, I am getting 5Volts at the R5215 when plugged into the top port before I put the board in. Current Draw is 0 Amps but computer is holding the charge when disconnected from power, no charge coming in with USB C meter. I also replaced the ISL9240HIB3 one more time with a brand new chip and now it turned on, but back to square one with no charging the battery, MagSafe Cable shows the charge and goes off and on again.Last edited by Stephen; 02-18-2025, 12:15 PM.sigpic
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Just a thought could this be a faulty USB C chip? It seems it does not like using the other two USB C chips but one chip it's happy. Ok scratch that, when battery is plugged in I get 20volts on all usb c ports. 0 amp draw computer turning on.
I will document this.
when plugged in without battery it turns on and chimes, I get 20VOLTS and.5amps but the amps are dropping. until they hit 0.00AMPS
Battery connected, I get 20Volts. 1.89 amps and then the meter restarts and hits 0 amps but stays on.Last edited by Stephen; 02-18-2025, 01:42 PM.sigpic
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Ok. Somewhat cross eyed going through the details but the summary is as follows?
a) unit works with the battery but does not charge the battery? This unit is very likely one of many recent models that need a battery to boot.
Are there any documents on this model that note that only one of the Type C ports are suitable for powering the unit? Do not believe this should be restrictive on which ports are used to power the laptop.Comment
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a) Battery is charging with this model, however it is a A2442 MacBook Pro 14". battery charges increments, it charges, then stops, charges again, then stops. I tested two good working batteries and both are the same result.
No documents just testing and it seems it powers on when plugged in to any port if the battery is plugged up. But it will not power on if battery is not plugged in but one port will turn it on SOMETIMES with the battery disconnected, which is the port nearest the MagSafe 3 port. The Battery holds a charge, it charged it fully as well, however it was in increments and takes longer than normal. I believe if the customer could get away with it in this state but a 140w brick would be the best option to charge it as fast as possible. It just seems unreasonable in this state....I do have their DATA backed up.
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MEOWING IN THE IMPOSSIBLE UNIVERSE!Comment
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Are you using the official OEM power adapter from Apple on this unit? Need to be sure that all cables between the power adapter and the laptop are rated for use of say 200W. The internal cable e-marker IC is required for such high currents. Most USB-C cables are rated for 100W at most. Apple, with their captive cable, will be able to support as marked on their adapter housing.
If you are not sure, the adapter will be throttled to act like a 100W or lower rated adapter. The power adapter will only be as strong as the weakest link.
Perhaps you can benchmark the unit to check if the laptop speed is being throttled on the CPU.Last edited by mon2; 02-18-2025, 03:06 PM.Comment
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Yes always. Always using OEM power adapters with Apple logo and Original cables. Using USB C cables and the MagSafe 3 Cable from Apple. I may not know where to go from here but I at least got the board back on with the battery. Thats a start so we can rule out the ISL 9240 chip now.sigpic
MEOWING IN THE IMPOSSIBLE UNIVERSE!Comment
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The board has had more rework done than the Kardashians. With no power to the board, confirm the resistance of the battery charge current sense loop as per post #18 & # 19.Comment
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Stephensorry if i disturb you in this post, i need your help! i've tried to send you a private message with no luck, how can i contatc you?
thanks and sorry to disturb youComment
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Looked harder and these two resistors were both at 10 ohms, I checked my donor and I had the exact two at 1 ohms removed them tested and they were good, removed the other two and they were bad. Replaced and now that Line is at 1 ohm on both. Testing the board out now.Be sure that one meter probe is on C5221 and the other probe on C5222 = total resistance = ~2 ohms. Not measuring to ground.
Something is wrong here. Likely a broken PCB trace or missing part in the path.
Trace from C5221 and go north and continue to make a clockwise batch of measurements. Compare each to the schematic. The full path should have been ~2 ohms.
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Ok I think I solved the charging issue on the MagSafe 3 Cable. It is not blinking anymore and holding the charge and now I am getting a calculated time when it will finish! WOO HOO! those two resistors were bad! Now I am going to do a final check, btw this board was a Pain in my ass but I learned something new about these Macs. Now with that said I have a little board ultrasonic cleaning I need to do!sigpic
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Glad that the suggestion helped. piernov has noted this fault a few times. Always check the INPUT and OUTPUT current sense legs of the charger ICs. Personally invested 3+ weeks with a tech in the UK here on this forum - root cause was a trace break in the battery charging current sense loop. Great when it finally works.Comment
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Yes you been a great help throughout this process mon2 I am able to pinpoint a lot of issues but this one was uniquely different when the board was giving me different signals. But it is what it is. The board was cleaned professional since it was a flux nightmare lol. She looks new again minus all the other things but we started off with two blown caps for charging issue on that line but it appeared it blew more than just those caps but a few resistors, L5230 and Q5230 and Q5240 which more than likely were hit with that blown line. It was a lot of work but this customer really needed the help and I wanted to prove we could fix this issue. I even mentioned to the customer that I am going to get a second opinion from you and your opinions stand just like piernov thanks as always, I am storing this information in the back of my head and sharing my thoughts if anyone has questions. So far so good. I am transferring their data back so it works great.sigpic
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Ok, customer came back, computer charges normally but when she uses an external HDD drive to backup her data the MagSafe charger starts turning off and on, she stated that it does it sometimes but not all the time, waiting for her to bring it back, everything checks out on charging, but I am not 100% now what could this be. I stress tested it and all was working, I believe if I am not mistaken this computer has that bs 6AMP chip that fails when you leave peripherals plugged in to long and makes the USB C ports start acting up. I tested it myself before having her pick it up and it charges normally and all ports work well, so not sure what it would be but I will keep you posted. She said it charges normally without issue and sometimes it won't flicker on and off when the drive is plugged in, however that is telling me something is going on either with her drive or something else. I plugged up an external ssd which DOES draw less power than her god forsaken HDD that defiantly more than likely needs power on an external and she is using it to draw power from the port which is a big no no. She did come in with a power issue and charging issue originally, so something is telling me it could be her peripherals that are killing her board. I told her to stop using the peripherals until she comes back in. I will keep you posted with my findings, but she did confirm the computer charges without issue...sigpic
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Sounds logical on what you have stated. Educate her to not use the side with the wimpy TI part but use the side with the hefty current rated part that 'never' blows. Will be curious to learn on which ports exactly are acting up for her.Comment
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I bought a Vostro 3400 motherboard (LA-K033P) to upgrade over my damaged Inspiron 5593 (LA-J091P) board. Everything else is ok except for the battery. This battery I am using now is already a replacement one since I disposed of the bloated original one. Back in the Inspiron 5593 motherboard, the battery charges fine and is identified just fine. However, with the upgraded motherboard, suddenly the replacement battery is labeled as "Not a dell battery". When I borrow a similar battery from my colleague (which did not have replacements yet), it is identified and charges just fine.
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Hi
Acer A515-43
LA-H801P
Fail: Does not charge battery, has low voltaje on connector.
Laptop didn't want to turn on, only charge led blinked.
I found PQB5 (mosfet high battery charger) in short, voltaje in +12.6V_BATT was 19 v ...
I changed it, changed PQB6 too and now battery charger voltage is 4.4V but battery is 3 cell, 11.25v, then is very low to charging.
Laptop turns on without battery and works fine, but with battery turns on and turns off inmediately, I suspect battery bad but I don't know... -
Hello All,
I have a unusual problem with a MacBook Air 2014 820-3437 that it will not charge the battery. I have 2 batteries that charge just fine in another 820-3437 so i assume that the batteries themselves are OK. One was new in 2020.
This board started off as a PP3v3_S5 short that was resolved (shorted capacitor) and came to life fine. While testing the computer I noticed that the battery was not charging so I checked the following components:
Current sensing:
R7121 10 ohm
R7122 10 ohm
R7151 2.2 ohm
R7152 0 ohm
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Hello, I have a MacBook Air M1 that got water on it and now the computer does not charge the battery. The USB C port does work since I can connect the computer to HDMI for example. The battery also works well since if I connect a motherboard from another MacBook Air M1, the battery charges.
Anyone know what can it be?06-18-2024, 11:28 AM -
Hello all,
I bought a Macbook Pro 16" M1 Pro, A2485, 820-02100, which working flawlessly but not charging. I thought battery needs to be replaced but then started reading and it seems that problem will be in motherboard.
Battery sign has cross sign and MacOS can't read battery stats. Fans are full speed but can be set down via Fancontrol software.
I did start digging into in and found out below:
Diode mode:
SMBUS_BATT_SCL: 0.529
SMBUS_BATT_SDA: 0
SMBUS_BATT_SCL: 1.795V
SMBUS_BATT_SDA: 0.948V
Can anyone help...
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