Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

[PlainBill]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

could you post a link or send it to me? I looked and only found one for around 240.

I'm having problems finding it again. I found it by Googling either the part number or the TVs it's used in - it's also used in the 42MF437B. Alternate part numbers are 996500044559, ADPF24300R1P and 715T2432.

PlainBill

[nuklear]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

could you post a link or send it to me? I looked and only found one for around 240.

[PlainBill]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

I stand corrected. That certainly looks like the ferrite core is broken. The power supply is available for $75 online.

PlainBill

[nuklear]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

Sorry I think what I called a magnet is the ferrite,lol. I dont know much about electronics. I dont think my friend means anyharm or trying to rip me off (didnt charge me anything) but I dont think he understands this much into it. Well here are the pics.

[PlainBill]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

no offense taken, he doesnt do this for a living but he told me he new the basics about fixing electronics. He had me call the company for a new transformer and they said it cant be bought. He showed me how brittle the "magnet" is around the transformer by pushing the edge and it broke again. can I get a new magnet? I took pics of the board w/o the transformer I will post them when I edit the size of them. And again thanks for the info and help!

With all due respect, I find this unlikely. A transformer usually consists of three parts - a core - in this case, ferrite; a plastic bobbin, and the windings. There is no 'magnet'. Ferrite is brittle, but usually the core of a transformer is quite hard - think of a clay pot. Pictures would go a long way toward convincing me that the part he broke off was of the core. To me, it seems far more likely it was the bobbin.

PlainBill

[nuklear]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

no offense taken, he doesnt do this for a living but he told me he new the basics about fixing electronics. He had me call the company for a new transformer and they said it cant be bought. He showed me how brittle the "magnet" is around the transformer by pushing the edge and it broke again. can I get a new magnet? I took pics of the board w/o the transformer I will post them when I edit the size of them. And again thanks for the info and help!

[momaka]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

thanks for the reply. He said the magnet around the transformer was broke and thats what was wrong with it.

I highly doubt that's the problem. This guy sounds like he doesn't know what he is doing (if he did, and if the transformer really was "broken", then he should be able to replace it and not tell you to get a $300 power supply). No offence, but the guy is probably just a typical board swapper.

Like I said, post some pictures of your board here and we can tell you what to measure with your multimeter and you how to troubleshoot it.

[nuklear]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

thanks for the reply. He said the magnet around the transformer was broke and thats what was wrong with it. he should me it was by taking the tape off and a piece fell off it. I am assuming this was the problem, i didnt buy a new power supply yet I just wish there was a way to fix the transformer instead of spending $300 on a new psu I can get a multimeter but I didnt know what points to test and what not.

[momaka]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

Except in the backlight inverters, transformers very, very rarely go bad. With that said, there's a very big chance this power supply is repairable, and most of the time it's usually something simple too.
The chirping could be caused by a couple of reasons:
1) PSU tries to start but fails due to dry start-up capacitor (somewhat common failure and very easy to fix)
2) PSU tries to start but fails due to bad output capacitors (slightly more rare... however, this issue should have been eliminated if you replaced that cap on the bottom next to the connector with a proper low ESR one)
3) shorted output (not very common, but still easy to fix)

Well I had it check I was told it was the Transformer and I need a new psu.

If you had it checked at a TV repair shop, don't blindly believe in what they say. Most of them just swap the bad board with a new one and don't really analyze what have caused the failure in the first place. Moreover, the replacement board may have the same failure-prone capacitors, so you may end up with the same problems again down the road. Fixing your own power supply with proper, high-quality components is a much better way to go about this, and it's usually cheaper too.

Before I buy a new psu, what are the chances it wrecked another board in this tv?

Very small, but they do exist.
Nonetheless, I still think you should fix the old power supply (again, see above reasons). Start by posting pictures of your power supply. Get a multimeter too.

I just recently bought one of these tv's with what i believe to be the same problem. The larger caps look slightly bloated on the top. I also have the chirping noise and wasn't sure if that was related to the caps, or if the transformer is bad like someone else suggested.

Bloated capacitors are always a bad thing. Get them replaced first, then if needed, troubleshoot the power supply if it's still chirping.
My recommendation is the same as above - start by posting large, clear pictures of your power supply as well as the brand and series that is printed on each capacitor (if you're not sure how to obtain this information, just post all of the info you see on each capacitor). This will help in determining proper capacitor replacements.

[dougsoxman]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

I just recently bought one of these tv's with what i believe to be the same problem. The larger caps look slightly bloated on the top. I also have the chirping noise and wasn't sure if that was related to the caps, or if the transformer is bad like someone else suggested. Did the original poster ever get his to work? Was it just the capacitors that you replaced? Thanks

[nuklear]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

Well I had it check I was told it was the Transformer and I need a new psu. Before I buy a new psu, what are the chances it wrecked another board in this tv?

[momaka]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

Do you have a multimeter?
If so, use it to check if there is a stand-by voltage present. Using the picture from the first post in this thread, the stand-by voltage will most likely be present somehwere on that connector where the arrow for "D" is. Most of the time, the stand-by voltage is usually 5v or so.

If there is no stand-by voltage, replace the small green capacitor to the left of the transformer (if you haven't already done so). Also, what brand and series of capacitors did you use for your replacements?

A picture of your power supply would also be helpful.

[nuklear]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

It seems to be coming from the transformer next to D. Is there any way to replace that? Would that cause a chirping noise when plugged in? What do the numbers at the top of the transformer mean? 80tl37t912 ls
pph6012al
lse-b9 0747f2

[nuklear]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

I had the same issue on my Philips I replaced the bad caps but I still have the chirping noise and no standby light at all. I zeroed the noise down to an area but dont know how to go about repairing/testing it. It seems like it is coming from the yello block left of D (picture from first post) or the small reddish/brown thing just above D. Any help/insite on this would help.

[Dgtech]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

I'd try that same player on another TV. I think it might be the player that has the problem.

[maxthecat]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

I found this page help full in repairing my Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37, the same thing had happened after 2 year and 8 months It did the same thing, so I Google the tv shutting of a few second after turning it on, came across this page, ordered 5 dollars in capacitors, the tv had been working for a day now, awesome, it does have another problem sometimes we watch bluerays on our ps3 which is hooked up with a hdmi cable sometimes you have to restart the player several for the sound to work, have you had any problems with this

[Lobo]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

Thanks for the helpful suggestions guys. You're right that I still have a lot to learn so I will try to keep it simple for now. Today I received my replacement PSU and tried it out. Sure enough it was the problem. Thankfully I can RMA the PSU and save myself 85 dollars but first I will be taking a shot at fixing the old one myself. Thanks again for all your help.

It's crazy when I think of all the electronics I've tossed over the years that probably could have been fixed with a soldering iron and nice people willing to share their knowledge.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

I checked here already for the OP. Topcat (not Tom - as I originally wrote earlier) has 2200uF 16V, but not 1500uF 35V as per

https://www.badcaps.net/pages.php?vid=22

which is why I suggested Digikey with the Panasonic FM part numbers. I just wasn't sure if this was the right Panasonic series or not.

And yes, I agree that almost any type of cap will work with the other poster (including general purpose), BUT some members are quick to point out (in sometimes not so diplomatic ways) that you should match ripple, esr, etc by reading the datasheets.

Rubycon ZL is avaliable from here (badcaps.net), but I'm not sure if Top Cat has the ones you need, so you should check that.

[momaka]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

Does "GF" sound right?

Yes. Now I see that you even mentioned it in your first post, but I just never saw it .

Anyways. Looks like United Chemicon KZE and Rubycon ZL are good matches for those CapXon GF caps. That means Panasonic FM would also work so any of these 3 choices should be good. According to datasheets, Nichicon HE and Chemicon KY are not as good as CapXon GF. But then again, CapXon GF are probably much better on paper than in real world applications, so HE and KY might also work.

You can get Chemicon KZE and Panasonic FM both from Digikey and Mouser. Same goes for Nichicon HE and Chemicon KY. Rubycon ZL is avaliable from here (badcaps.net), but I'm not sure if Top Cat has the ones you need, so you should check that.

Let us know how it goes and like Dgtech said, keep it simple and don't worry too much. Those CapXons are already bulged so you can't get much worse than that.

[Dgtech]

Re: Philips LCD 42PFL5432D/37 - Bad PSU

Dude seriously, with there being only four caps to replace, this is getting to be too scientific. Keep it simple, this is your first recap.

Lets be real for a second. Even if you replaced these caps with the same brand (which I dont suggest), the unit may work for years. Some monitors with these bad brands dont fail until year 6 or longer. Even if you soldered in new capxon caps just to see if this fixes the unit, fine. Then you can take the time to enjoy what you have until you've done some research into some better caps just in case the unit fails later. Depending on how hard it is to take this thing apart though, you might just wanna do it right the first time.

Just dont get too caught up in the science of it all.