Sony OLED XBR65A8G no video, PSU problem?

[lotas]

Here is the method posted by diah here;


If you got at first test EVDD Lower than 24V then drop down... and the VIN remain at 12V or also drops down ... then do the next

Second Test: ( running the power boards and the panel as stand alone )

1- disconnect the Main boards totally from Power boards and from the T-CON ( mean disconnect the socket coming from the power boards & disconnect the 2 LVDS between Main boards and T-CON .. unplug them from T-CON Side )

2- Disconnect the T-CON from Power boards ( unplug 2 sockets VIN & EVDD )

3. RUN POWER BOARDS as Stand alone ....
make bridge with R value 100 to 1K Ohm ( if the STBY 3.3V you can do it direct with out R but need to be sure 100% of the pins label )
A- STBY & Power_ON ( this will turn on REG12V ON )
B- STBY & TCON_12_ON ( this will turn on TCON_12V ON )
C- STBY & EVDD_ON ( this will turn on EVDD V On Max 24V )

if you confirmed all 3 Voltage in A,B,C you have ... then complete

4- RUN The panel Module as Stand alone
A- Feed the T-CON with VIN & EVDD V which you got at above points B & C


Are you saying this wont work with these models ? All i get is a black screen with either original or replacement t-con, even with that panel test mode.

I'm wondering if i should get a replacement set of cables. I attached 2 pictures, one is where i found a shorted cap, and second is the condition of the cable (can't even align it right it's so messed up, pins might not even be touching the socket pins properly.

Also wondering, is the missing CAP (the one that was shorted) an issue ? They were all connected together, figured out missing one wasn't a big deal, maybe guess wrong.

Rabbit hole!

And how will it (T-CON) turn on using this method? In order to start T-CON, he still needs to issue the “Enable” command, which is supplied from the motherboard...

[Diah]

if some one never had OLED under his ass at least one time... keep silent--
OP the test written in this threat related to Model XBR65A8G not yours.

[Davi.p]

How can you know which TV needs Enable and which no, excuse me?

[lotas]

How can you know which TV needs Enable and which no, excuse me?

Where these 4K T-CONs from LG (Sony, LG, Philips, ...) are installed.

[Diah]

again... there are no such words t-con “Enable” signal... there data feed p+ p-, stand alone test can be done on all T-CON and its own Slave Panels.. over all brands with out F"""K “Enable” from mainboards
so stop nonsense discussions.

if you want to learn how open threat and ask, don't hijack other threats

[cheebster]

hahah, i fixed the damn tv ! Woop! A hard reset fixed it. So at the end, it was just a bad cap. Pretty happy camper

[cheebster]

Question; i've got some grey banding on the screen in the menus, this is an android tv which i don't know much. Is this normal ? I'm not sure i put back the original TCON in it.

[Diah]

this happen because you removed all 4 ribbon cable and when you put them back you switched it places.... by time and pixel refresh get better

could you show the Cap place for refrence

[cheebster]

Hello, didn't remove the 4 ribbons at all, yes see my previous posts i posted a picture of it

[Diah]

Hello, didn't remove the 4 ribbons at all, yes see my previous posts i posted a picture of it

i wrote to you the reason caused this look ... if you didn't, then some one ells before you.

[lotas]

Question; i've got some grey banding on the screen in the menus, this is an android tv which i don't know much. Is this normal ? I'm not sure i put back the original TCON in it.

Carefully clean the contacts on the bottom and top of these 4 cables, also replace the lvds cable...

[Diah]

will not help if they changing places.. also new ribbon will not help. because each channel are from Factory calibrated with mAm., need WB calibration adapter., or each time pixel refresh they will get better

[cheebster]

The cables were not removed they were really sticked to the board there, from factory. Maybe i'm using the wrong tcon, could this cause the bandings ? Or the LVDS cable that looks like sh1t.

[Diah]

The cables were not removed they were really sticked to the board there, from factory. Maybe i'm using the wrong tcon, could this cause the bandings ? Or the LVDS cable that looks like sh1t.

if you are so sure 100% then as yours ribbon photo there are damage with 2 wide lines from both side.. this will reduce the Ohm. so the mAm calibration will be effected-

[Diah]

put back yours original t-con if you didn't missed with it

after that you do hard reset by pressing the joystick down then plug in wall remove only after changing front LED from white to green

by the way i wrote to you before... did you put the Original T-con? if yes then change the ribbon at least the result will be more better

[Davi.p]

You put almost certainly the spare tcon, you need the other one, but you have to reset again

[cheebster]

Ok, new set of cables didn't fix it (can't hurt). Put the original TCon in, banding is gone, image is perfect (well it's pretty clean). Sucess! Thanks for the help.. 🍺🍺🍺