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Samsung UN82MU800DFXZA - Black screen+Sound works

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    #41
    Re: Samsung UN82MU800DFXZA - Black screen+Sound works

    Originally posted by budm View Post
    At this point for safety, you should plug the TV into the GFCI outlet to protect yourself.
    At this point, if you disconnect the cable between main board and the power supply board and plug the TV into the AC outlet, do the backlighst come on right away and stay on as long as the TV is plugged into the AC outlet?
    Yes, they do. This is with the TCON board plugged into the power supply, but not the main board

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      #42
      Re: Samsung UN82MU800DFXZA - Black screen+Sound works

      I need to see the pictures of the whole backside of the TV showing all the boards so I can see how they are connected together.
      Never stop learning
      Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

      Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

      Inverter testing using old CFL:
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

      Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
      http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

      TV Factory reset codes listing:
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

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        #43
        Re: Samsung UN82MU800DFXZA - Black screen+Sound works

        Originally posted by budm View Post
        I need to see the pictures of the whole backside of the TV showing all the boards so I can see how they are connected together.
        Attached below. Let me know if you need any closeups of any board or specific detail. Wouldn't I need a wired map from Samsung to know the exact readings I am supposed to be receiving with each of these ports? Which I am sure they would never give out.
        Attached Files

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          #44
          Re: Samsung UN82MU800DFXZA - Black screen+Sound works

          Originally posted by Island_Stylin View Post
          Okay...I did some further testing. I tested the lower power connector going from the PSU to the main board. This was the lower power connector. I have put the readings on the picture attached below. When i touch what I believe is the ANA_DIM to the connector next to it the entire unit backlights dim.

          The number 20 plug readings from RIGHT to LEFT : 0, 12.8, 12.8, 12.8, 12.8, 18.38, 18.38, 18.38, 0, 0.

          Stranger yet. I turned off the tv. Unplugged the other cable from PSU (above the one I notated above) and while the tv was off the entire units backlights turned back on without me powering on the tv and the remote wouldn't turn it off. (probably a mistake not to unplug the tv when I did this. Standby power affected it?) I then unplugged the tv. Turned it back on and the TV backlights turned on bright and then turned more dim. This is new. They backlights have never been dim before when i turn the tv off and on. Now everytime they turn dim after the initial bright lights of the backlights. I either did something bad when I tested the unit or??? Front of screen no longer shows bright dark blue...now you can't see anything really...very very faint.
          not disregarding the comments about "test process / setup", assuming the numbers you read and setup was OK (right probe, right place), the numbers posted appear ok. The one of interest on the "20 connector" (which actually label cnm803) is pin 10 - fail count along with a few others in the "even pin numbers". To do this safely, look at the label on the board. There is a "hint" by the connector about the "STB" (power ON/OFF). The value can be found at the jumper so you don't have to figure out how to get at the "hidden" pins. It is also likely that the other even pins can be found at some jumper... look at the board and the back side and trace which jumper applies to which pin and use that to get at the pins. As an alternative, you can do a continuity test from the pin in question to a jumper to find which pin connects to which jumper. NOTE the continuity test is done with the card disconnected from the set.

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