Re: Yet another Samsung 305T post - black screen w/backlight, occasionally works
I did not solve it. I think it was the daughter board and couldn't make heads or tails of it nor find a replacement. I invested too much time and gave up, nice as it was.
Thank you to the guys at HEGE supporting Badcaps [ HEGE ] [ HEGE DEX Chart ]
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Maxxair 4500K RV roof fan only works on intake, does not exhaust
Hey folks,
I have a sprinter for field work. To keep it from getting roasting hot by 6am, I have a Maxxair RV fan installed high on the rear door to both exhaust (say if I'm cooking) or intake cooler from air from outside. It became functionally intermittent and just in the last few days has ceased exhausting. The motor sees no power when it should be exhausting, which leaves the control board as the culprit. Rather than simply replace the entire board which is a bit exhorbitant for what it is, I am wondering if there is a particular component likely to be at fault that you smart folks...
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Re: Yet another Samsung 305T post - black screen w/backlight, occasionally works
OK, I finally pulled the two Rubycons and the large main cap. They were at Vloss of 0.5 for the Rubys, and 1.0 for the large main. Not sure if this is acceptable or not. However, while thinking about this, something else popped into my head. This unit is behaving an awful lot like when I'm testing the backlights of a TV by unplugging the ribbon between main and PS. Except instead of just powering on as soon as it's plugged in, it is waiting for the power button to be pressed.
Any ideas?...Last edited by withalligators; 04-04-2022, 04:22 PM.
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What is acceptable Vloss for a capacitor?
Recapped most of the Capxons on a PS board, but monitor is still not working. Didn't replace two Rubycon 35v1000uf caps. Pulled them to test, I have one of those little component testers with the LCD screen. Multiple testing cycles put them at Vloss 0.5 - 0.8, capacitance at ~930, and ESR at 0.00 - 0.01 ohms. I also didn't replace the large main cap. It's 150uf450V, and tests at Vloss = 1.0%, C = 138.3uf, ESR= 0.46ohms. Should I replace these or is that acceptable and I should look elsewhere for the fault? The issue is intermittent, but not working far more than it is working.
One...Last edited by withalligators; 04-04-2022, 03:45 PM.
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Re: Yet another Samsung 305T post - black screen w/backlight, occasionally works
With help picking the correct caps, I replaced all of the existing Capxons with equivalent Rubycons (there were 2 existing YGF rubycons I didn't replace as well as the large main cap) on the board. Unfortunately the problems persists. I tried multiple shutdowns, restarts, power cycling the monitor, and I got it to work one time after powering the monitor off and adjusting the DVI cable. It remained functional until I turned it off with the front button and turned it back on. Nothing after that. It doesn't...
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Re: Looking for best replacements for Capxons, but can't find data sheets
These were the datasheets I looked at, but there are some discrepancies that make me second guess whether these caps are on these sheets. The first is the size for the sole entry in the GL 1000uf35v; listed at 13mmx30mm. The one on the board I'm looking at is 12, maybe 12.5 with the wrapper, by 20mm. And that's the bulgy one.
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Looking for best replacements for Capxons, but can't find data sheets
Recapping the power supply board for a Samsung 305T monitor, everything is Capxon except 2 Rubycons. I can't find data sheets matching these online, so don't know what ripple numbers, impedence, etc, to look for. There are a few different looking GL series data sheet PDFs, but the listing that matches the capacitance and voltage is a much bigger case size. I've narrowed down selections with lead spacing and case diameter, and what's in stock at Digi-key
1 x Capxon 1000uf35v GL C720(is this a part number or batch number, can't find it anywhere) 105c
1 x Capxon 1000uf35v...
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Yet another Samsung 305T post - black screen w/backlight, occasionally works
Hey folks,
I picked this neat monitor up from a recycling center years ago, and it worked fine for a long time. I know they are prone to T-con issues with the Altera chip, but I've yet to experience any symptoms of that going. I always perform scaling on the GPU though. It had occasionally thrown a black screen at me, that was usually reset by powering it off, and reseating the DVI-D cable in the sole input. I gave it to my brother who said the problem got worse, and it would be very difficult to get it to display a picture, it took lots of fiddling. As far as I understand him, it always...
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Re: Samsung UN55HU7200 not powering on, no blink code
Hey Jason, never solved it. Pretty sure it wasn't the mainboard. I ended up with not enough time to do a full teardown to check the LEDs, but that would have been my next step.
Good luck, and if you do figure it out I'd love to know.
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Re: Samsung s23a300b
Sorry, this was like 6 years ago. I remember nothing about doing it at all. Still have the monitor though.
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Re: Battery charging / power supply switch board for a Red Rhino electric scooter
Man, I really slept on this thread cause I'm so busy with some other stuff. The guy who's scooter it is asked me about it. Any ideas what to repair/replace or improve to make it more failsafe? Thanks!
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Re: Battery charging / power supply switch board for a Red Rhino electric scooter
It's hard to see, but there is a delineation on the top of the board that goes around the plastic of CN1. It does seem that one side of CN1 connects only to the hot side of PJ, the battery, and 87A/30 on the relay. The other side connects to R3 and 86 on the relay....
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Re: Battery charging / power supply switch board for a Red Rhino electric scooter
Yes, you are correct on the initial mislabeling of the components on my end. I'm super rusty! Sorry.
Q1A -> 85 : 80.4ohms
Q1A -> 86 : starts at ~0.5, ticks down to 0.1
R3 -> 85 : starts at 1.0, ticks down to 0.0
R3 -> 86: 80.3ohms
85 -> 86: 80.3ohms
Q1A -> R3: 80.4ohms
CN1 does not go to the charger, it goes up to the front of the bike. I don't have it here, but like redwire and STJ say, it seems to...
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Re: Battery charging / power supply switch board for a Red Rhino electric scooter
Ok, the white 2 pin connector is indeed throttle. Sorry about that, I misunderstood from the guy. The charger does connect to the second set of 2 spade pins. So, the throttle is connected on the - side to CN1 which then goes to 86.
I'm assuming since the hot side of the throttle is connected to PJ+ that when you engage the throttle it powers the coil to engage the relay?
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Re: Battery charging / power supply switch board for a Red Rhino electric scooter
Let me see if the guy can bring the bike thing in tomorrow. I thought the charger port was the white 2 pin thing, but maybe that's the throttle or something and the charger is connected to a set of the spades.
Either way, CN1 has no continuity with PJ+ or -, it's on the - side of the white 2 pin connector. Or at least, I'm assuming it's the - side as the other pin is on the same circuit as PJ+
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Re: Battery charging / power supply switch board for a Red Rhino electric scooter
Q1 goes to 85.
CN1 goes to the negative side of the charger port on one end and to 86 on the other end, and I get no continuity with it and any of the resistors.
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Re: Battery charging / power supply switch board for a Red Rhino electric scooter
Q1 to 85 I get ~80ohms. Q1 to 86 I get descending numbers until it settles at 0.1/0.0.
For CN1 to 86 I get ~80ohms. CN1 to 85 I get the same descending numbers.
For 85 to 86 I get ~80, and for Q1 to CN1 I also get ~80.
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