Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
Good luck!
I usually cut the legs and apply solder to the back of the IGBT and i use a 60w solder iron , works perfectly.
whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
OK... I will give it at try... thanks.Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
40 watt. Works great for me. You can lift the legs, like in the vid, and test parts. The smaller fgd4536 are easier to resolder to the board and run cooler.Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
thanks tvtimmy.... that looks doable for my equipment and "lead hands". One question, what wattage of soldering iron are you using?Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
OK... I did a check of the "pin spacing" on the fdg4536 versus the board solder pads and it appears that they can indeed sit appropriately on the board. It would appear that if one uses the fdg4536 that if they were to "blow" (physically explode) since they are so much smaller, that perhaps there might be less potential board damage.... maybe... :-)
Of course, it would be even better if nothing bad happened... :-)Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
OK.... The "parts boat" came in so I started looking at this again. I ordered a couple of different sourced (china) 30f131's. I also order the two diode types (rfn10 ns3s and rf1501 ns3s). They all came in a form of "capsule packaging" similar to the picture that I posted, they look new. I haven't did any "bench check measuring" to compare values at a "thumb level". The one question that I have is, it was suggested that FGD4536 could be a "safe" substitute for the 30f131 (maybe less "fake"). Anyways, my question is: the FDG4536 "form factor" is less than half that of the 30f131.... is this correct? Its hard to believe that these things handle 50AMPs. I am not even sure that the pins will align with the board solder pads / tracks.
I am proceeding slowly as I decided to give a hot air desoldering station a go and am now waiting on that "boat".... but in the meantime. I might give my "big heat gun" a shot to see if its doable as I am getting somewhat impatient to see if this "recycle bin tv" can be operational.Last edited by budwich; 03-15-2018, 03:12 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
I ordered parts from "off shore" ... :-) I haven't gotten all of them yet plus I am not able to continue with the repair at this point due to other things happening. I hope to get to this some times next month and hope to post a success. I am still considering some sort of hot air solder station (cheap one) to help with this and any future work that might require "reflowing" and such. I will give the "hot air gun" a try as I have one from guitar building work (bending sides)... just not sure it can be "aimed" good enough.Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
budwich, Did the repair kit from shop jimmy fix the issue?Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
thanks again, will look at those IC's in question. They don't appear in the shopjimmy kit / help for the sc card (or mentioned) so hopefully although maybe a common failure, they are OK.... this tv isn't going toward anyone so I can "redo" if necessary. If they are bad, will they take out other components "again". Will they generate any sort of "flash code" that points at them if / once the set is powered up after the other repairs.
attached is a picture of the igbts... hard to tell anything... I will see I guess.
Its going to be awhile since the boat is always slow getting.... which is good since this is going on the back burner for now.Last edited by budwich; 01-12-2018, 08:29 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
I doubt you get the original ones. We will see what happens.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z7bycQ_nfH...600/pana05.jpg
BD8693FVM. That's the control IC.
3Y (SMD Code) is a CPH5524-TL-E
Replace RJP30H2A and 30F131 for FGD4536TM
There is a long thread about the fake 30F131 on this forum.Last edited by Moreno83; 01-12-2018, 01:18 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
oh oh.... that's not fun. i need to look closer..... hmmmm.
this is what I order...
"NEW TOSHIBA GT30F131 30F131 TO-263 MOSFET" from china... doesn't appear to align with your "code warning"... I figured the "toshiba" would hopefully be a good sign.Last edited by budwich; 01-11-2018, 12:19 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
You need to watch out what components you buy. Dont buy the 30F131/RJP30H2A from china unless you want some fireworks.
FGD4536TM , there are some fakes on the market also so i hope you get the good ones.
On this particular board the DG301/302 fail also. It measures good on the outside but interal is still damaged.
Also the 2 small ic's on the board are usually dead. IC501 out of my head......Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
i will probably add some star washers that will hopefully help with both lock down and contact to the track.Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
Shop Jimmy screws are more tailor to trying to keep the board locked down. Floating grounds are all about these boards. This is a number one failure of sustain boards in Panasonic's.
When I repair a sustained board I usually take out all the screws wire brush and. If I'm at work where I own a machine shop I put them on a screwdriver in wire wheel the hell out of them to clean them all up. A few times I've used blue loctite on the screw threads. I'm not sure if this helps or not, However I've noticed on a few repairs that the screw holes feel definitely loose. On a few of those I went down to the hardware store in but coarse threaded screws with loch washers. Any of the scenarios I haven't heard of a problem arising as of yet over the last 4 yearsLast edited by freakaftr8; 01-11-2018, 10:00 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
not sure what the difference is but the screws have an "integrated washer header"... meaning the screw head has its main body and then there is a wider metal rim. It is certainly not the type that the shopjimmy kit has which has a washer and spring associated with the screw.Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
what type of screws hold this board down the older type or the newer upgraded ones.Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
looking at the surface closer, it appears to be somewhat like "aluminum oxide"... kind like the thing that happens with aluminum electrical wiring when it mates with the wrong type of switches. I have likely sanded them clean to ensure better contact.
It doesn't appear that I can get the components locally so its "off to china".... slow boat here I come.... that's ok as I probably have to "shelf" the project for a while.
Thanks for all the help on this. I hope it is ultimately successful and will post the outcome when and if I get there.Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
took the board off. pictures show some of the contacts on the bottom side have issues. Top side looks OK. My question is shouldn't most of the "contact surface" be from the screw thread contact area? The "stand off" mount "dimple" is a coated surface which meets at those "dark areas" so I wouldn't expect it to be a good point of contact... should be this be sanded to a good metal look on that mount surface?Leave a comment:
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Re: whole new repair / learning world... plasma! Yikes!
thanks... I am hoping I can find something locally but chances are slim as we are in the "back waters of technology"... canada you say... :-)Leave a comment:
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by FirentiosiThanks for offering your assistance with this. I'm an electronics enthusiast with moderate level of competence (have a decent lab with two power supplies, microscope, DSO, hot air, good iron, can competently work at a component level on SMDs, design and solder own PCBs etc). I really enjoying fixing things and learning new stuff so took up a free 58" LED TV and have been googling and watching Youtube videos to see if I can fix this! I am happy to go down to individual component replacement/strip replacement etc - it's all in the name of learning.
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