Well, unfortunately that training manual is for 2009 panels and this TV is 2013 and I don't think it applies. Some of the info is good, but I don't think it helps here. Anyone have the correct training manual? Or any other suggestions?
Re: Samsung PN60F5500, making me question my sanity
Okay, for anyone who is curious or if this might help someone else with this problem, with the help of a friend with a thermal viewer, we found:
C5455 on the upper buffer board was getting hot and when measured, was reading open (good), but when clipped from circuit on one side, the TV worked and had a normal picture (surprisingly with the cap clipped). We believe the cap is breaking down and shorting under load. I'm replacing it with Digi-key part number: 445-8465-ND, which I hope is a good replacement. The voltage had to be surmised from the size of the cap and the voltage measured across the points on the board which was 15vdc. So that cap is a 50v to be safe and 10ufd (since original says 106K).
Okay, for anyone who is curious or if this might help someone else with this problem, with the help of a friend with a thermal viewer, we found:
C5455 on the upper buffer board was getting hot and when measured, was reading open (good), but when clipped from circuit on one side, the TV worked and had a normal picture (surprisingly with the cap clipped). We believe the cap is breaking down and shorting under load. I'm replacing it with Digi-key part number: 445-8465-ND, which I hope is a good replacement. The voltage had to be surmised from the size of the cap and the voltage measured across the points on the board which was 15vdc. So that cap is a 50v to be safe and 10ufd (since original says 106K).
I'll post when the part arrives and I try it.
can you send a pic of what you clipped, i would like to try
Re: Samsung PN60F5500, making me question my sanity
An old thread but just want to report that this thread helped me immensely solve the no picture problem with the exact same model as OP.However when trying to locate capacitor c5455 on the upper y buffer board I found non had ever been installed from the factory.After more searching online I found that a repair kit was being sold that contained 3 capacitors to replace 3 failed capacitors on the y-sus board(y-main ).On my board again one of those capacitors was never installed from the factory .After unsoldering one lead of each of the 2 remaining capacitors to remove them from the circuit I reinstalled the y sus board .The tv fired right up afterwards with fully functioning picture ,sound etc.I replaced those 2 caps with 2 I removed from another similar board of the same capacitance (106 marked on cap or 10uf) and voltage .You can buy the repair kit online which includes 3 caps though as I said my board only had 2 that needed replacing and 3rd was never installed from factory.It seems as if LG must have been aware of this problem way back by eliminating 2 of the 4 caps that have been reported failing in their production line.Also for me there was no way you could tell that the caps were bad by looking at them .They looked completely normal.
Re: Samsung PN60F5500, making me question my sanity
To (also) add to this old thread, I have to emphasize that the 10uF THT capacitors in these old plasmas have to be replaced. Some are more crucial than others, mainly one's who's value is critical for voltage regulation on the Y-main board. Near a transformer, DIP8 chip and opto.
This generates the "high" voltage for the Y buffer board(s). Basically a couple of volts above the "low" voltage (around -200v depending on models). Please note that supply rails have different names depending on manufacturers but for Samsung, the "high" voltage to the Y buffers is Vsch.
Vsch capacitor failure will tend to fry Y-buffer chips. Basically, the chips will face way more than their VCC ratings until one gets destroy and shorts Vsch to V. Hence the TV dropping ALL voltages.
Hard to pinpoint as the cpu will shutdown all supplies if not all OK. One easy trick is to power Y-buffer boards independently with 12V current limited. The shorted one(s) will heat up right away. The chips work with 12V differential voltage, thought on the TV, their groung is actually -200V.
Thank you to this guy on youtube. (I can't hear any of what he says but pretty clear anyway).
Re: Samsung PN60F5500, making me question my sanity
So I'm having the same issues with my Samsung plasma, if I power on the set, my va and vs voltages drop. If I unplug the the y board ribbon cable, and the cable going to the x main, voltage holds steady to what is on the label. But my question is should the power supply click when the tv is turned on? I see on the power supply board that their are relays but they never make any clicking noise.
My tv model number is PN60F5500AF.
Thanks
Re: Samsung PN60F5500, making me question my sanity
You should just try replacing those capacitors like the other posters did and not worry about any relay.
Originally posted by PeteS in CA
Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
Re: Samsung PN60F5500, making me question my sanity
So I did some checking on the power supply and found all voltages to be good. I also went back and did the testing that Hamie suggested to see if I could get the screen to light up and unfortunately it didn't.
During this test I found the va, and vs voltages to be right on but found the voltage on the ve to be 11.5vdc. The label on the tv says it should be 108vdc, so I'm thinking the x main board is bad/shorted. Could someone let me know if my assumption is right? I'm guessing the VE voltage is supplied by the x main.
I appreciate any help and advice in advance!
Thanks
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