Anyone familiar with the Akai LCD3701AD?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Spork Schivago
    Badcaps Legend
    • Mar 2012
    • 4734
    • United States of America

    #81
    Re: Anyone familiar with the Akai LCD3701AD?

    Okay, I unhooked all the accessory boards (DVD, digital tuner, etc). I double checked all my cables. I hooked up a video source (HDMI), still nothing.

    I couldn't find the board with a jumper cable before, so I highly doubt I'll find one now. Akai's website doesn't appear to be any help (ie, not contact information, no technical support, no firmware, etc).

    It was around 21$ to purchase the board. I'm thinking of not returning it and trying to modify it. But what do I do? I'm thinking it's a firmware issue, personally. I don't think it's the jumper cables that go to the DIM / GND / BL_O/N jumper. If it was, I should still get sound and I should still get something on the buttons.

    Is there a chance another board is damaged, like the T-CON? The PSU has been checked and appears to be providing proper voltage, although the 24VDC was reading around 22VDC. I don't think this would be the issue though.

    Should I purchase the parts to make the cable and try to dump the firmware off the bad board? I suspect it's the actual MT8202AG that's bad on the old board. That's the one that holds the firmware. So, even with a cable to download the firmware and upload the firmware, I highly doubt I'll be able to grab it. I could try swapping MT8202AG chips. They're BGA. But it appears the firmware is actually stored on the chip. I guess there's a chance the chip is just the interface to the firmware and the firmware is stored on another chip....but if it is in fact on the MT8202AG, then replacing the chips probably won't work.

    I guess it wouldn't hurt to try and "reseat" the old chip. I've never used my BGA rework station before and I'd hate to try on this old board. But perhaps it's just bad solder joints and removing the chip and reballing it would fix the issue? I mean, assuming there's nothing else wrong with the board. There was a bad cap by the analog TV tuner that I replaced with one I pulled off another board. Brown in colour. It was just to see if that fixed the problem. It didn't. Kinda running out of ideas.

    What would you do?
    -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

    Comment

    • vinceroger69
      Badcaps Legend
      • Mar 2012
      • 6714
      • uk

      #82
      Re: Anyone familiar with the Akai LCD3701AD?

      Tell the customer you cant locate the correct mainboard and see what they want too do being a older set they maynot bother and give it you for parts etc i tend not to repair many ccfl sets lately as i have about 4 here all working but people prefer led tvs 1080 resolution etc

      Comment

      • Spork Schivago
        Badcaps Legend
        • Mar 2012
        • 4734
        • United States of America

        #83
        Re: Anyone familiar with the Akai LCD3701AD?

        Originally posted by vinceroger69
        Tell the customer you cant locate the correct mainboard and see what they want too do being a older set they maynot bother and give it you for parts etc i tend not to repair many ccfl sets lately as i have about 4 here all working but people prefer led tvs 1080 resolution etc
        I'll contact him and see what he says. I really want to try reballing that MT8202AG. It'd be nice of that was the issue, but there's a good chance I'll damage the board in the process. I can run that by him. Maybe he'll say give it a shot.
        -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

        Comment

        • Spork Schivago
          Badcaps Legend
          • Mar 2012
          • 4734
          • United States of America

          #84
          Re: Anyone familiar with the Akai LCD3701AD?

          On the old board, I was checking the SMD fuses, just for shits and giggles. I noticed something though. Over by the VGA port, there's an L78 and another SMD component, CB216. At first, I thought it was flux, but it appears to be leaking something. I can't tell if it's L78 or CB216.

          I wonder if they could be what's wrong with the TV. They're very small.
          -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

          Comment

          • Spork Schivago
            Badcaps Legend
            • Mar 2012
            • 4734
            • United States of America

            #85
            Re: Anyone familiar with the Akai LCD3701AD?

            The service manual shows the CB216 is a 0.1uF SMD cap that goes to the AVCC line of the MT8293 chip. There's a chip that says:
            Code:
            MT8293AE
            0624-AESL
            L610052
            L78 also appears to go to the AVCC line of the same chip. I can't find a datasheet on the MT8293AE, so I'm not sure what it does. It looks like it might be hooked up to the HDMI port. I wonder if they would prevent the TV from starting. The MT8202AG is what appears to drive the transistor that provides the PS_ON and it's keeping that transistor on, preventing the PS_ON signal from going. When I by the transistor and force the TV on, the back light just kicks on and right back off again.

            Any chance one of these bad SMD components might be causing that?
            -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

            Comment

            • Spork Schivago
              Badcaps Legend
              • Mar 2012
              • 4734
              • United States of America

              #86
              Re: Anyone familiar with the Akai LCD3701AD?

              I got a hold of the doc. He said if I cannot get the TV working, he'll just throw it out and he'll even pay me for the board that I bought that doesn't work in the TV. He said I can do whatever I want to try and get it working. Whether I fix it or not, he'll pay me for my work.

              That gives me the okay to try to do some more not so safe ideas. The jumper wires, for instance. Should I try hooking them up on the new board like they're hooked up on the old board? He said the TV was bought in the states....

              We don't have any 240V lines in this house. I'd have to run one, we don't have any empty slots in our two panels. So, it'd be hard to power up my BGA rework station right now. I'd need to replace the panel with a bigger panel. We only have 100 amp (maybe 150?) coming into the house. The sub-panel I want to say is a 60-amp and the main panel feeds the sub-panel.
              -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

              Comment

              Related Topics

              Collapse

              • howardc64
                A1312 (27” iMac 2009-2011) A1407 (Thunderbolt Display) A1316 (Cinema Display) Display Black Screen Repair
                by howardc64
                Problem

                This is an LG edge LED lit LCD Display. The LEDs are on the bottom edge of the display. There are 2 bars (left and right) Each bar has many LEDs and a 6 pin connector. Each pin drive several LEDs thus is the highest current flow / heat junction. The weak lead free solder gradually fails with thermal expansion/contraction cycling and increases resistance. PSU will compensate up to a point, then when the current is too high, PSU just shut down the backlight causing a dark display. I have even seen one which the connector just fell off as solder points became completely detached....
                08-04-2024, 10:36 PM
              • mrdevil
                Crest Smart Home Single Power Adaptor SHSPM1 (rebadged Tuya device) - bad cap causing failure, how to repair
                by mrdevil
                Hi all,

                Wanted to share this as I couldn't find anything on the internet about this problem, so pulled one apart and found the problem myself. Years ago I bought approx 20 or so Crest Smart Home Single Power Adapter smart switches - small 240v Tuya-compatible (rebranded) smart switch devices with power monitoring, which Big W had on sale for half price. Paid $7.50 each for these, and they've been incredibly useful for turning things on and off remotely... and monitoring how much power each device uses.

                However, after about 12 months, I had a number of these stop working...
                01-08-2025, 03:19 AM
              • Dannyx
                How I "fixed" the display on an Akai LT-3220AD TV
                by Dannyx
                Good day folks. I thought I'd share with you something I did today, just for a laugh and for a bit of a discussion, since I'm still not entirely convinced what happened there.

                I found an Akai LT-3220AD TV in the dumpster - literally - so me and my colleague brought it back into the shop and dusted it off a bit to see if someone maybe gave up too soon.

                Long story short: backlight came on but had no picture. My colleague attempted to reprogram the SPI chip but it didn't change anything, so we concluded it must be the panel that's faulty, especially after reading about it...
                01-29-2024, 10:12 AM
              • Genaugmen
                Akai MPK 261
                by Genaugmen
                I got this akai MPK 261. Had no power from USB. Optional Power adapter caused some light smoking, so unplugged and disassemble to get to the main board. There are two surface mount inductors near the power input. One look obviously damaged, removed both for replacement. Then there's this IC a few components away (pictured) that I can't identify. I've done plenty of plenty of surface mount component work, so replacing it isn't a problem. Any insight into what this could be would be greatly appreciated....
                09-17-2023, 01:17 PM
              • LearningToRepair
                How to read PCB symbol for 6 pin push-pull switch?
                by LearningToRepair
                Hi!

                I am a bit confused how to read PCB markings for 6 pin push pull switch. I had problem with my 6 pin push-pull switch on my UT58A multimeter. It did not lock properly. So I decided to replace it. I forgot the orientation of original button. And now I need some help with understanding PCB.

                I learned from google how to identify orientation of push-pull button:


                But I am a bit confused which way PCB expects it. I expected that PCB would have some kind on intent marked on it. But mine has 3 marked instead. I attached the photo of it where I marked...
                02-24-2021, 04:18 PM
              • Loading...
              • No more items.
              Working...