Sharp LC-60LE633U 2-5 flash

[crosstalk]

Re: Sharp LC-60LE633U 2-5 flash

So just to update this thread, I purchased a tcon for $20 on ebay guaranteed to work or your money back.
Well I installed it and had the same symptoms, including that 3.3V being dragged down- so my working assumption is that might be normal. Might not need to be actually 3.3....

I went back to probing the DET_PNL_12V_CPU signal that is supposed to come to the main board. This time I was seeing something in the 2.xx V range.
Better than 0 but not right.

So then I started using some freeze spray, and magically no more blinky light- but still no picture.
Long story short, I ended up focusing on the ribbon that connects tcon to cpu. I noted that the CPU end was not very secure where the cable end is assembled. ( the actual clip into the mainboard is rock solid)

Depending on how I wiggled it I could trigger the blinky light or not.
Added some backing to the cable using aluminum tape and re-assembled, now no more blinky lights, but still no display on screen- but at least the TV starts up in normal mode without any blinky lights but still doesn't show a picture.

My next step is going to get a new cable, who knows what other signals are flaky there.

Interestingly, there is an led on the mainboard that I never noticed before.
It now comes on solid at power up and after backlights turn on, it moves to a steady blinking state. its called CPU_LED.

Anyone know what that signifies?

I'm not sure if your lvds ribbon cable has a plastic housing around it. If so, push the cable into the housing so all the contacts are visible and the end of the ribbon is flush with the edge of the plastic housing. It seem like the ribbon isn't making a good connection if you are backing it with foil tape.

[calimark]

Re: Sharp LC-60LE633U 2-5 flash

I'm not sure if your lvds ribbon cable has a plastic housing around it. If so, push the cable into the housing so all the contacts are visible and the end of the ribbon is flush with the edge of the plastic housing. It seem like the ribbon isn't making a good connection if you are backing it with foil tape.

Yes that's all done. What I noticed is that the tcon side has 'from the factory' backing material.
The cpu side was loose in the plastic housing, and did not have this backing.
That could be from the factory, but I found it odd. As soon as I added backing the pnl_12v was resolved and I have not seen it since.

EDIT: Well dog gone it! I've had the same thought in the back of my head so I looked I the replacement tcon I bought...lo and behold! See photo
This is the tcon that gave full backlights but no picture.

[calimark]

Re: Sharp LC-60LE633U 2-5 flash

"However this tcon provides absolutely NO picture. It provides a permanent BLUE screen on the left side, and a permanent grey screen on the right with the ribbons connected. I get a FULL bright white split screen if I disconnect the tcon. <<<<-----

What do you mean by this. You disconnect the tcon from the panel (all cables 2?) or the lvds cable from the tcon to the control board.

what happens with just one cable disconnected? Try each side?

No need to bother...all answers are in post above.
See photo of damaged connector

[crosstalk]

Re: Sharp LC-60LE633U 2-5 flash

Too bad the connector was damaged, but the pins inside look ok. Maybe the ribbon will still make good contact?

[calimark]

Re: Sharp LC-60LE633U 2-5 flash

Well I'm happy to update with some success!

I got a 3rd tcon for $10 and installed it. The result was the same as my original tcon.

Next I got a tcon to CPU cable (from a diff model) and made it fit.
Now it seems I have reliable back light and panel comes up just fine, no errors. So basically all the original problems were 100% related to the tcon>cpu cable.

But now I have to deal with self induced problem.....that I described a few posts back where I lost the right 1/4 of the screen. See photos attached.
That problem started when I was playing with tcon to panel ribbons. I have since tested it with 4 ribbons for that side and its always the same.
I suspect I have damaged the main right side connector or one of the bridge (jumpers).

As you can see in my photos, the 1/4 screen is missing. With the tcon removed you can see full back light no panel damage.
I want to find something thin enough that I could pick the pins in the panel's main connector to pull them 'up' and make a tighter fit.

[budwich]

Re: Sharp LC-60LE633U 2-5 flash

it would certainly appear to be cable connection problem. The second picture appears to indicate half of the panel which means that cable is not connected at all if that picture was taken with it actually connected.

Are you using your glasses when you are connecting the cables up??? :-)))
You need to inspect and ensure you have good aligned of those cables... if not, you can easily damage them and / or the connector. Good luck as it appears you are almost "in business".

[calimark]

Re: Sharp LC-60LE633U 2-5 flash

it would certainly appear to be cable connection problem. The second picture appears to indicate half of the panel which means that cable is not connected at all if that picture was taken with it actually connected.

Are you using your glasses when you are connecting the cables up??? :-)))
You need to inspect and ensure you have good aligned of those cables... if not, you can easily damage them and / or the connector. Good luck as it appears you are almost "in business".

The 2nd photo was cable disconnected.
Lesson learned don't be lazy when connecting those cables. I pay attention now, but it might be a tad late. Yeah- I use my eye loop now
Took apart the panel last night and ruled out the 'U' shaped jumper by swapping sides.

If I unclip that side's connector and play with the black clip I can get the text to show up momentarily in that section. Hopefully I can resolve it by pulling those pins in the connector up somehow. If not I will have a lot of functioning spare parts

[budwich]

Re: Sharp LC-60LE633U 2-5 flash

:-(... but then :-) hmmmm.
well since you are get a momentary good picture, it appears that you are focusing on the right area. I assume the black clip that you are referring to is on the edge board as opposed to the TCON which you could get around by replacing the board (which you did with the same result... which then kind of pointed to the other side).

Inspect the clamping / connector pins carefully. Further you could try using a fold or two of paper to help with pressuring the cable down with the clamping bar... again being careful not to over do it. Since you have tried a number of cables with same results, I would suspect the "pin array" is damaged which may not be recoverable from although perhaps you could replace the connector with some very very careful soldering as I don't think those are bonded to the edge board. Of course, there isn't much room to work on those boards in place since you can't remove them because of the bonded tabs.

Perhaps one of the pins just needs some cleaning which isn't easy either but maybe some contact cleaner and "luck" may do it.

[calimark]

Re: Sharp LC-60LE633U 2-5 flash

Decided to go for it. I need a better iron anyway so I ordered one with a hot air pencil.
Gonna scavenge a connector from the damaged tcon I received initially and replace the one on the edge board.
It been years since I did any fine pitch soldering, but I managed to filp the panel over into a position that has given me enough room to work.

It's very interesting how the image appears in certain positions of the black clip, and totally disappears at other positions, but I couldn't get it to stay for more than half second of so.

BTW I did try extra backing and pin pulling etc etc....nothing seemed to make it right,just marginally better, never quite got a perfect image.

[calimark]

Re: Sharp LC-60LE633U 2-5 flash

Anyone know where I can get 80pin connector for the tcon > panel ribbons?
They look like 0.5mm pitch, 80 pin. Top lock, bottom contact.
Thats about all I can figure out so far.

I tried to pull 2 of them from the bad tcon but both ended up getting damaged. The two ground pads run under the actual connector and it was extremely difficult to heat the connector evenly for removal with the air pencil. As a result both connectors I removed ended up having some sort of damage and can't be used as a replacement.