I have this Sharp TV flashing one long/one short Lamp Error code and the screen remains black. I have held VOL -, INPUT, POWER while plugging in to turn the power indicator ON steady; then pressed POWER and it goes OFF; then POWER once more and I get the 1-1 code again. Without going to the trouble of disassembling the LED strips, is there a way of checking if it's the Power Supply or the LED's?
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Sharp LC60LE810 with Lamp Error
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Re: Sharp LC60LE810 with Lamp Error
Check voltages going into the led strips out of the power supply. you should be getting about 100 volts DC I believe or so off of the red and blue wires are they may be red and black but however once you reset the power supply with the code and the power light remains lit before getting voltage out but nothing lighting up no backlights you most likely have a bad LED strip and the one that's usually bad is in the upper right hand corner on the side top strip on the right hand side the first led on that strip where the power wire goes in is usually open. Check it with a good DVM and I attract mode you should be able to probe each one of those LED's and get them to light up with a good meter if that one LED does not light up thats your problem then what I have done has bypass that led myself on a few of these sets now and they're still running strong after 2 years later..Did I leave the soldering iron on?
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Re: Sharp LC60LE810 with Lamp Error
Here' is what I tried: Referring to the photo below, I connected my meter to "LED_DRV3+" (the upper red wire) and to "LED_DRV3-" (the lower blue wire). I then went through the key sequences as in my first post. I'm assuming when the icon is solid ON that I should have voltage here. I read 0 VDC all the time. Am I doing something wrong?
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Re: Sharp LC60LE810 with Lamp Error
Thanks for the quick replies! Do you mean L1+ against L2- ? I unplugged the LED connectors and did what you suggested, also using the chassis as ground but I keep getting 0 VDC. By the way, I only have 10 seconds while the icon light is ON, it then goes back to the flashing. Is that normal? Any other suggestions?
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Re: Sharp LC60LE810 with Lamp Error
you have it right volume - input power as you plug it in when that inverted V stays on that means it's trying to power all of the systems including the LED strips so you should get voltage when that light is steady I know it only stays on for about 10 seconds but that should be enough to see a Blip of voltage go outDid I leave the soldering iron on?
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Re: Sharp LC60LE810 with Lamp Error
I've tried plugging in while holding VOL-, INPUT, POWER over a dozen times and it always starts with the flashing code. The only way I can get a solid "V" is by plugging in first, then pressing the 3 buttons.
When the "V" goes solid there is no voltage at all. I tried several meters and found one that is a little faster. It momentarily showed a reading, anywhere from 10-30 VDC. This short blip only occurs when the "V" goes from solid, back to flashing (at the end of the 10 seconds)
Do you think this may indicate a bad Power Supply Board or an open LED?
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Re: Sharp LC60LE810 with Lamp Error
Open led
And yes my bad. Sorry you have to do the sequence when its plugged in so you have it right. Worked on so many Sharps its always different.Last edited by freakaftr8; 02-13-2015, 11:23 AM.Did I leave the soldering iron on?
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Re: Sharp LC60LE810 with Lamp Error
No problem. remember check the upper right LED strip first where the connections come in usually that top led seems to be the one that wants to burn out first. seen it 2 times now on a LC-60LE810UN and a 46 inch version of that set.
and as a side note be super careful with the LCD panel when you remove it from the frame can try to place the panel in an area where there's no lint or debris. also do the same with the polarizer sheets because there's nothing worse than having dots behind a screen that you cannot clean out. I made that mistake with an 80 inch Sharp and if you look close you can see them. I would advise to have two people to remove the LCD screen and don't let it flex too much can be really careful with the boards that are connected to the panel don't flex ribbon cables too much and don't let them snagLast edited by freakaftr8; 02-13-2015, 01:06 PM.Did I leave the soldering iron on?
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Re: Sharp LC60LE810 with Lamp Error
Well, I managed to get at the LEDs. So far I have tested one side by lighting up each LED with a meter on DIODE TEST. The one on the very bottom won't light. I will go ahead and test the remaining LEDs all the way around. It's tricky because they appear to have conformal coating on them and they are hard to contact.
You mentioned bypassing a bad one. Do you mean just shorting it out or replacing it with a diode?
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Re: Sharp LC60LE810 with Lamp Error
no I mean bridging it with solder. If it's just one its ok and it shouldn't hurt anything as I have done this to a few TVs like I said running for over a year now like this. Interesting it's the one on the bottom huh. Oh well cool yeah Bridge It and see if it powers up.
you don't need to have the LCD panel reattached for testing purposes you can hook up the front push button connector in powered up without the panel and you should see the light up if its just one burned out that's most likely the source of your problem so if you cannot get to testing the rest of them just bridge that One and then see if it comes up with the LEDS lighting nowDid I leave the soldering iron on?
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Re: Sharp LC60LE810 with Lamp Error
I am testing Power Supply appart, Applying pull up resistors to PS-ON, STB ON, and panel-power, Have PFC voltage around 400VDC, 13 volts and 5 volts, but no power on led connectors, having 6 power supplys with same setting and none of them have DC voltage's on led connectors, Am I missing another condition or pull up?
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Re: Sharp LC60LE810 with Lamp Error
I enjoy reading the tips on this page. if I may add to this discussion.. I have been a sharp service provider for almost 40 years. What I have found on these Tv's is the you need apply 185. vdc across l2 to l1. Red to red, black to black , grey to grey and blue to blue. The return ( or the ground) will be on L2 prospectively. Look close to the screen and you will see each corner light up. The one that does not will be the strip that is defective. It is pretty simple to find the bad strip . We built a verbal supply out of an old varac and a Sony projection TV power supply. WE can check all led tvs by using different voltages that way. Just a little bit of information.
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