Tom66 is right the HDMI on the front panel has its own mini panel and I believe that your A board is now fully functional.
For example for the TH-C50FD18 is the panel “GH” code TNPA4603ABS which has his own chip “IC3801”. If this chip “IC3801” is shorted, you can try replacing the chip or you can buy the mini panel which is not so expensive in EBAY.
If you want to verify if the chip is shorted you might try the following:
1. Check continuity in the C3815 and see if it is shorted.
Note: I am assuming that is not a tiny capacitor but something of the size of the capacitors that were shorted in the A board, if not this test won't work.
2. Check the resistance between each of the following pins and ground 39, 40, 45, 46, 3 and 4. If you get reading in the order of the MEGA OHMS, then the chip should be ok. Any readings below that means shorted. See the attached (REF: page#48 of the SM).
Note: The voltage readings in these pins should be of 3.3V with the TV on and with HDMI port not connected, unfortunately this test can't performed with the GH board because of its location.
Tom66 is right the HDMI on the front panel has its own mini panel and I believe that your A board is now fully functional.
For example for the TH-C50FD18 is the panel “GH” code TNPA4603ABS which has his own chip “IC3801”. If this chip “IC3801” is shorted, you can try replacing the chip or you can buy the mini panel which is not so expensive in EBAY.
If you want to verify if the chip is shorted you might try the following:
1. Check continuity in the C3815 and see if it is shorted.
Note: I am assuming that is not a tiny capacitor but something of the size of the capacitors that were shorted in the A board, if not this test won't work.
2. Check the resistance between each of the following pins and ground 39, 40, 45, 46, 3 and 4. If you get reading in the order of the MEGA OHMS, then the chip should be ok. Any readings below that means shorted. See the attached (REF: page#48 of the SM).
Note: The voltage readings in these pins should be of 3.3V with the TV on and with HDMI port not connected, unfortunately this test can't performed with the GH board because of its location.
Hope this might help.
From what I've read so far, HDMI 2 & 3 work, not 1. 3 is on that front board (GH) 1 is on the A board.
I did the same PDF snapshot, i find if pasted in paint and save as jpeg you can get a sharper image.
From what I've read so far, HDMI 2 & 3 work, not 1. 3 is on that front board (GH) 1 is on the A board.
Yes, this is correct. 2 and 3 work. 2 is on the A board, 3 is on the front board. 1 is on the A board and is dead. It's my folks' TV in the basement. They are only using it to watch cable TV without a box. They are happy to have it back.
I have this same main board and my problem is the tv will turn on and all no blink code and powers up fine, screen lights up just no picture can anyone tell me what to change on the main board?
honestly johnboy im ok like diagnosing a tv and swapping boards or replacing some caps on a power supply, but like I don't even know what this means when you guys says is shorted,,, but I would like to learn if you will guide me threw this, the tv turns on and no blink code and stays on screen is lite just no picture where should I begin testing?
Hi, I was able to rescue an A board TNPH0721 of a TH-42PZ80U. Check my thread under the title: Panasonic Viera Plasma TH-C50FD18 2 Blinks error code and picture problem, it might help you as the boards might be pretty similar.
I pulled L4512. C4599 is still showing shorted. No change in the symptoms except the remote powers on and off. It may have done that before though. I was going off memory when I wrote the original post.
I reseated the ribbon cables and it's working. I've ordered some ChipQuik and the IC. We'll see how it goes. Locutor13, thanks for pointing me in that direction.
The chip arrived this morning and I quickly went to work replacing it. The old chip came off with no fight whatsoever. The ChipQuik is amazing. I couldn't be happier with it. I wicked all of the pads and the new chip went on without a hitch. I put the board back in and fired it up. HDMIs 2 and 3 both work fine. HDMI 1 doesn't work. I went back and looked at the chip. None of the pins are bridged and all pins are soldered to their appropriate pads. The two caps, C4599 and C4601 are no longer shorted. At this point, I don't know if it's something I did or if HDMI 1 has a separate issue. I wonder if I didn't get that little inductor soldered on correctly, though it appears to be.
I'm not trying to be a complete dick. It's been nearly seven months since I did this repair. I do remember that the inductors are on the back. The HDMI chip is probably a 3/4" square 144 pin IC on the front of the board. Like I said, it's all documented here. You're going to have to put a little effort into this yourself.
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