Locutor13
Senior Member
Last Activity: 10-01-2023, 03:46 PM
Joined: 10-01-2013
Location: Gatineau/Quebec
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Salut, avez-vous vu mes messages? Si oui, pouvez-vous me le signaler que ce soit positif ou non ? De cette façon, je n'attendrai pas inutilement après une réponse... Merci tout de même... -
Bonjour, je ne sais pas si vous avez lu mon post au sujet d'un problème similaire à un des votre (panasonic TH-50PX80U, A Board). PAULMICH, posté le 25 décembre 2016... Auriez-vous quelque chose à me suggérer avant que je ne me résigne à jeter ma TV? -
Hi, I have the same problem you describe now long time ago. I have a Panasonic Viera TH-50PX80U. Power on but no image. Are you still there? I saw your from Québec, do you speak french? my english is very bad... Want to know if you can help me...
Thanks -
B&K precision 2190 3 Channel Oscilloscope
Attached Instruction and service manual for the Oscilloscope 2190 that I got from BK.... -
Re: Dynex lcd 2 sec to black issue
I was able to remove the protection of the backlight by shorting the pin 14 "Timer" of the chip U201 to ground as shown in the attached picture. Also you will see next to the chip a series of jumpers J213,J219,J209,J208,J212 & J211 each one for smalls caps or resistors and each has two small semi circles.
If you know the right combination you can match the settings of the ccfl according to the specifications of the protection by shorting some of those semi circles.
Be aware that removing the protection... -
Re: Dynex lcd 2 sec to black issue
Hi, I have the same Dinex DX-46l150A11 with the same problem of getting the 2 sec the black issue after replacing the same ccfl (not original) of T6. Has anyone been able to find a solution?? Please Help.Leave a comment:
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Re: RCA RLVD3282a No Led Backlight
Thank you jetadm123, just what I needed.Leave a comment:
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Re: RCA RLVD3282a No Led Backlight
Hi I need some help as have the same problem as described here for a RCA LED model RLDEDV4255. I found a burnt led and did a bridge between the 2 test points and got the LED working only for a bit until another LED burnt.
Now I would like to try what mmartell did replacing the led and dome but no idea how to do it. Any help will appreciated.
I am attaching a picture of the bridge I did. Sorry it is upside down.
Thanks for your help....Leave a comment:
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RCA LED RLDED3258 A-E bad eeprom??
The TV turns-on, the led light at the lower right side corner turns from red to blue and the back lights will turn-on but I don't get any picture or sound.
Also I can see some flickering on the screen when I play around with the remote control or by pressing the buttons of the TV.
Since there are not burnt coils or other visible bad components (see pictures), I think that this might be a problem with the eeprom UP1 but I can't find a replacement.
Thanks in advance for your help.... -
Re: SAMSUNG LCD LN52A750 POWERS ON & OFF MAIN BOAD or PSU??
Since I was unable to find a replacement cable; I cleaned the male connectors of the main and the PSU boards and the female connectors on both sides of the cable with a ``contact and head cleaner`` and turned the cable around. I connected the burnt side of the cable to the main board and the other side to PSU and got the problem solved.Leave a comment:
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Re: SAMSUNG LCD LN52A750 POWERS ON & OFF MAIN BOAD or PSU??
The 33UF tested ok but I found another possible cause of the problem, the connector of cable CN801 that connects the power supply to the main has 3 burnt female pins jackets (see picture).
This is a 24 2X12 double pin cable and the burnt pins are the ones that conduct the 12v which I don' get when the TV won't turn-on.
Where and how I can find a replacement for this cable?...Leave a comment:
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Re: SAMSUNG LCD LN52A750 POWERS ON & OFF MAIN BOAD or PSU??
I tested the PSU as shown on the shopjimmy’s video: [url]www.youtube.com/watch?v=n54IurMvr6o[/url] and I got the backlight right away and all the voltages.
So I am going back to troubleshoot the main board and I’ll start testing the tantalum caps. I have found one that looks like it is somehow the equivalent of the C102 47UF 10V of the main boards of the Samsungs A5XX, it is label as C132 33UF 10V. I am planning to take it out of circuit and test it.
Can a 33UF cap be replaced...Leave a comment:
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Re: SAMSUNG LCD LN52A750 POWERS ON & OFF MAIN BOAD or PSU??
Sorry, I got confused with the CN801 connector's labels on the power supply so I followed the labels in the main board where every pin is individually described and found the following:
I get a steady 5.1 STB V while the TV is power cycling or when it is in STB mode.
On the pins where I should get 13V when the TV won't turn-on it I get a max of 2.6V if the TV turns-on then I get 12V.
SW-PWR: I get a max 4.3V.
Also I took the voltages of the connector CNI 803 and found the following...Leave a comment:
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Re: SAMSUNG LCD LN52A750 POWERS ON & OFF MAIN BOAD or PSU??
On PIN 3 of connector CN801 I am getting only 2.6V or 0V. Never 5.1VLeave a comment:
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Re: SAMSUNG LCD LN52A750 POWERS ON & OFF MAIN BOAD or PSU??
I tried the hair dryer and it didn't make a difference so I went back to the PSU and found that when I plug-in the TV to wall after it clicks the STB voltage is only of 2.6V instead of 5.1V and when it turns-off it goes to 0 volts and then back to 2.6V in cycles.
My guess is that when it turns-on the STB goes to the 5.1V but I would have to leave it to rest for a while to get it turn-on back again and verified that reading.
I tried the hair dryer also with the caps of the STB circuit and made...Leave a comment:
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Re: SAMSUNG LCD LN52A750 POWERS ON & OFF MAIN BOAD or PSU??
Thanks Budm,The main board the LNxxA750 is a little different from the series A5xx, but it still has what it looks like tantalum SMD caps that might be causing the problem.
Unfortunately the specs diagrams for the main board I got from elektrotanya are too big to be uploaded and I am not sure how to determine if this is the problem. Any ideas? Thanks.Leave a comment:
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SAMSUNG LCD LN52A750 POWERS ON & OFF MAIN BOAD or PSU??
The TV and keeps clicking on-off on power cycling, sometimes it does the whole power cycle and I can see backlight turning on before it turns back off but most of the times it stop before the red led blinks for 3 times. When it finally randomly turns-on (after several power cycles) the TV works fine.
So far I have verified that all the electrolytic caps on the PSU are ok and that there is no apparent bad solder joints. Also I was able to update the firmware but it made no difference.
I was wondering if this may be caused by a bad tantalum SMD caps on the main board... -
Re: Samsung PS50A656T1F clicking
Hi, I was experiencing something similar with the same PSU. It kept clicking without turning-on, the problem was a cracked solder joint of one of the legs of one of the black relays. You will find those relays just above the main fuse. Also you can check the solder joints in that area, it looks like that area gets really hot.
In my case a reflow of that joint solder brought my PSU back to life.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung plasma PN51D550 bad PSU or bad logic board?
Thank you Tom66, accidentally while I was doing the troubleshooting I have blown two transistor from the PSU which I will have to replace first before trying the quick test on that fuse. I’ll get back.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung plasma PN51D550 bad PSU or bad logic board?
Tom66 yes, it is blown. I tested in continuity/diode mode and got an OL.Leave a comment:
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