Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
Well, if I did this more often then once every month or so it seems. I got lucky so far.
One 50" Samsung DLP repaired the light tunnel. The wife is using it in the living room. (probably the best picture 1080p that I have ever seen on that Samsung)
The 62" Mitsubishi? Sold it within a week of repairing it. Just repairing the faulty wiring to the bulb and repairing the speaker wiring.
Picked up another identical 50" Samsung DLP for my home office. Family said faulty light tunnel, dim picture and a 'ghost' around the edges. Pulled the set apart and gave it a full cleaning. All it needed? Replacement 125w bulb. (We had an extra one from the other set.) The old bulb had almost zero reflective material left in the bulb. I checked the bulb life timer as it was the factory bulb left in the set. Well over 12,000 hours and counting. So that set is in my office with a fantastic picture as well.
And the Emerson. If the set runs flawless through the burn in period? (I leave it running for about a week just to ensure it does not crap out) I'll probably list it on the C-List for about 80 or so.
I do not do a lot of flipping of things, but most people see these TV's as disposable and at times I can pick things up to repair and resell. (I love the thrift stores for that reason)
I can see picking up more assorted packs if I did this more often. Truth be told there are about 6-8 people in my area that scour the classifieds for tv's and electronics to repair. By the time I get a lead on a cheap one to repair? It's normally El'Goneo'
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Emerson BLC320EM9 A
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
As long as you know the voltage zeners can be direct replaced with any other zener of same voltage and dissipation. I usually order 10 at a time but 22v, 26v and 36v seem to be the ones I use the most of. You can also get an assorted pack off ebay with a bunch of different values. But I understand if this is a one off tv repair your probably better served with a board replacementLeave a comment:
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
I got stuck when researching the zener diodes. Everything else I could find fairly quick. Most of the zener diodes kicked up obsolete and no way to order them in. (Unless I wanted to order in larger amounts off eBay.) By the time I finished up a base line order of the hard parts with shipping costs factored in--it was almost a wash to just order in the main board from shopjimmy.
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
Glad you got it working, just curious what parts you were having difficulty sourcing?Leave a comment:
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
All fixed. Many thanks goes to ShopJimmy. Some of the board level parts are no longer available unless I want to buy in heavy bulk.
So the main board got replaced, everything assembled, and it functions great!
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
I'll look them up and figure out a parts list.
Sorry about the delay. Had to tear apart a VCR and clean the belts. (Old Hitachi with all the bells and whistles. Things built like a brick &hithouse..can't kill it)
Thanks again for the help. I'll start ordering in the parts that I'm 100% sure I fried, and from there see if I can figure out the rest of the power issues.
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
I get pretty much all my parts from digikey, usually about 3$ for shipping. Then mouser 7$ shipping, eBay if I can't find it anywhere else.Leave a comment:
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
Before I go nuts with searching for a decent supply house. Which one has a good record around here? I've used MCM electronics in the past. (company I work for also uses them) Is there a decent company that I can work with?
(I'll probably just replace all the red parts---pretty sure that's my screwup at work.)
Just need to work through the power issue, and the schematic should help-- So far I did test all the diodes (in circuit test) and they did read good. I could tell the capacitors where charging when I was testing the diodes. It took a few moments for the readings to stabilize. Out of circuit testing is probably needed for more exact results.
Thanks again!!
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
If you can find one for 30$ I would go that way. These boards can be a bear to get working. That said its good practice to track down the fault, if you keep it long enough the "new" power board will fail too.Leave a comment:
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
In all honesty. I've found this board all over eBay for under $30 bucks supposedly out of 'working pulls' (aka, some idiot threw their Wii-Remote at the screen)
I can smell a very light burnt smell around the mosfet that I did the booboo on.
But in all honesty. Would this be better served just to order in a different board and just call it a day? I'm thinking by the time I order in components and pay for shipping-It might just be as easy to replace that entire board.
Considering the primary problem (before the blow-up) was no juice at all....Except the 170ish VDC from the inverter board.
I can of course open up the old account at MCM, or any other recommended supply house and do part by part testing and replacement. Just wondering if in the long run--just ordering in a complete board might be the better solution.
I'll do some print work of the schematic as well. We have a laser printer at work that does a good job on fine print items.
Thanks again for all the help!!
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
yes just a good clear pic above and below the hot sectionLeave a comment:
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
If you shorted the mosfet it will blow as many fuses as you care to feed it until the current limiting resistors go open anyway. I would check the gate circuit, you will need to replace the drive transistor as well as the mosfet. Check all the zener diodes and small signal diodes around the fet. Most commonly Ive found a shorted output diode on all but one of these funai power boards. If you can get a focused well lit picture I can circle the likely suspects for you.
I'll post up a piccy in a bit. Just the main power 'hot' area, right?
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
If you shorted the mosfet it will blow as many fuses as you care to feed it until the current limiting resistors go open anyway. I would check the gate circuit, you will need to replace the drive transistor as well as the mosfet. Check all the zener diodes and small signal diodes around the fet. Most commonly Ive found a shorted output diode on all but one of these funai power boards. If you can get a focused well lit picture I can circle the likely suspects for you.
Added the service manual as well belowAttached FilesLast edited by Caleb; 10-15-2014, 05:54 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
Must be everyone hates working on Emerson products.
I'll put this project on the back burner. My hands where shaking badly when I was doing voltage checks and I shorted the source for the MOSFET to ground. Blew that fuse big time. And of course I replaced it? And it's blowing soon as the set is plugged in.
Sense most of the problems seem to be with the main board--and NOT the inverter power board? That's the cheapest option is to get an eBay board and just call it a day.
And just so everyone knows. I replaced the fuse with everything plugged in. Fuse blows. I remove the two wire power connector (the one with the 164VDC across the pins) and the fuse does not blow.
(Yeah...I said 170 before. The other meter is in need of replacement.)
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
Bump. Need to know what's going on with this TV/Display.
Is there something about the 170VDC from the power/inverter board that I should be aware of? It's sending that 170VDC to the main board. I have to wonder about the transformer on that main board with all the diodes surrounding it. Maybe if I had a better understanding of the theory of operation I could work this one through.
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
Which symptoms where you getting with it? This poor thing doesn't show any sign of life. Not even the 2 second flash. Can't even get any readable voltage to the front panel switches either. Oh I get some 'flutters' and weak DC on some of the pins. But nothing really readable.
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Re: Emerson BLC320EM9 A
Hi everyone.
Sorry about dropping off. We had a few issues to correct with the 62" DLP--wife complained about getting headaches and the colors just not sharp and generally yucky.
She found out why the guy stated "I took care of my baby and pulled it apart to clean it monthly". This guy must have been smoking some interesting stuff. The rear of the screen was coated with a yellowish goo crud. (I'm a former smoker, had to give it up after the heart attack a few years ago. So I know what smoke 'tar' looks like) Along with heavy dust on the mirrors and lens. I'm proud of her for figuring it out. 4 cleanings later with soap and water--and we're talking rinse and repeat... Whites are pure and crisp and the picture is 100% again. (not bad for a $30.00 DLP first generation.)
Okay Okay. Back to the POS..errr....Emerson set. The photos had major issues trying to upload. (server errors out the bazoo) So I will attempt again.
Upon measuring the main power connector from the P/S and Inverter board, I have a steady 170VDC. It does not change or waver. (pushing the power button has no effect) I ran out of time doing voltage checks, save one. The 3.3vdc line at the test points reads "1.8vdc" (Same reading with the 'test points' on the board and using the chassis ground.) Also not sure if this means anything? But when I do the 170VDC check, it's only across the B/R wire. I go to chassis ground and both lines are dead. I do a direct test--and then get the 170vdc. Not sure if that means anything?
I did find complete used boards on eBay and ShopJimmy also has them pretty cheap for the main board. (The one with all the RCA connectors) I must admit to being a bit lost here. Also the 'transistor' (I have yet to pull the number off to see exactly what it is) under the small transformer on the main board. This has the 170VDC sitting on the center terminal. (pin 2) Pins 1 and 3 show no activity.
If the issue is with the main board, would I be better off just saying 'screw it' and ordering in a known good replacement and call it a day? The P/S board is much more expensive and I did note one 'transistor' had been replaced prior. I'm good at spotting fresh looking solder that has been clearly not done at the factory. (Also they got sloppy with the white paste...)
I of course would love to see this through from the board level repair. Have to swap out my multi meter today however. I did some diode testing around the board and my meter reported a lot of 'open' diodes (to be honest...it reported ALL of them open while tested in circuit. And that would be just about impossible for ALL to fail at the same time). FR104's where the ones I was mainly testing. 50 V, 1 A, Fast Recovery Rectifier Diode is what the spec sheet states. Each one I tested in circuit read full 'open' on the test. I pulled a leg off the board just to see if something odd was going on with the circuit causing issues--it read 'open' again. So I will be changing out the meter just to be sure.
Oddly enough the meter has been acting up a bit. It's a Tenma brand meter (probably spelled it wrong). One of the higher end ones we use for work. When I did the test of the 2nd leg of the part under the small transformer--the one that read 170VDC? The meter made a couple of oddball beep sounds and then the 'beeper' was making some odd static type sounds.
I'll bring the basic Rat-Shack meter home this afternoon.
Thanks again for the help!!! If more pictures are needed, just let me know which areas to focus on. The server appears to be working normally again for pictures.
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