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Im not sure how to test the rest of the components in the circuit
For the resistors do I switch the meter to ohms and test both ends with both leads or leave the negative lead on the metal to ground it?
Sorry im a newbie and I haven't gone this far into detail to test these small components
Yes, to test a resistor put your meter into ohms mode (make sure the device you are checking is OFF first) and connect the probes across the resistors terminals.
However, testing in-circuit may give false readings, you really need to desolder the resistors to test correctly, unless you know there is nothing in parallel with them.
Do you get any voltage on the output of L705? (Opposite side to Pin 10 of U706) - It should be 3.3v
With power off, check the resistance between the output of L705 and ground. What is it?
Originally posted by jose6326
Sorry im a newbie and I haven't gone this far into detail to test these small components
If you wanted to test L705 you would need inductor meter\ring tester but it's probably OK.
It has 4 physical pins but electrically only two pins and thus you have two pairs of pins and each pair will be connected together. From your voltage measurements Pins 1 & 2 are one pair, pins 3 & 4 are the other (since those have the same voltage\same point in the circuit)
I assume you measured each of L705's pins with respect to ground? If so, I would say check on Ohms range between L705 Pin3\4 and Ground. It could be that you have a short or leaky component somewhere on your 3.3vSB rail, since U706 is getting power but not outputting the 3.3v that it should be.
"Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHorn
Well, the good part is you did the measurement correctly.
The bad part is that it would appear then that something on that 3V3_STB rail is shorted, assuming your reading is 0.7 Ohms?
That 3V3_STB rail goes to many places on the board, so finding out where the fault is could be tricky.
I do notice in the schematic that 3V3_STB goes to some off-board connectors, so you might be able to narrow it down by unplugging things from the mainboard.
Otherwise, since power supplies and regulators fail more often, you could try disconnecting the input pin (pin 3) of regulator U702, desoldering the ceramic capacitors C767 and C705 and checking again for shorts. (try after each one) as it is a bit more likely to be one of those three items.
"Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHorn
Desolder Pin 3 of U702 and again check the resistance between Pin 3\4 of L705 to ground.
First though, disconnect all off-board cables from the mainboard and check resistance between Pin 3\4 of L705 to ground to be sure the fault is on the mainboard and not somewhere else.
"Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHorn
If it is not the supply capacitors and if you have a sensitive enough meter, you may be able to go around the board checking at components that are on that rail, the one with the lowest ohm reading is the shorted part (or a part nearby)
The other option is to supply 3.3v to that rail via a bench supply, and see which component lets out smoke.
"Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHorn
Hi, I have a Samsung UE50TU with:
- sound and backlight, but no picture
- when it arrived, it had a picture for a few seconds
- it keeps rebooting
- without ribbon cable between the two panel boards, it does not reboot but I have no picture
- without cable between mainboard and lcd panel, it does not reboot (but obviously i have no picture)
- when i try a tape fix, its keeps rebooting, unless I tape off pin 1 (the innermost pin). In that case it does not reboot but I have no picture.
- without cable between mainboard and lcd panel and with a jumpered...
I have a 60 inch Samsung UN60EH6000F flatscreen TV. The screen went black a few months ago Sound is good, backlight is good, no menu. I replaced the TCon board with a used board purchased from Ebay. It worked fine for a 3-4 months, then the screen started ‘fading' back. Once again, sound is good, backlight is good, no menu. However, this time the picture looks fine for about 10-15 minutes, then fades back. If I power cycle the TV, the display reappears, for another 10-15 minutes, then fades black again. Repeatable ever time.
I ordered a supposedly ‘new' Tcon board this time, and...
Hello everyone,
Ive got a UE60KU6079 on the workbench that is giving me some headaches trying to troubleshoot.
The previous owner stated that there had been white dots on the screen which from the description sounded like some lenses fell of the backlight LEDs.
He had opened the TV from the back, trying to get to the backlight, supposedly gave up, reassebled everything and gave the TV to me.
I expected the worst like ripped COF cables or a cracked panel but could not find anything like that yet.
Anyway I still fully expect that there has been something seriously damaged...
I was just given a Samsung TV with the issue. I read various threads and videos and attempted the ribbon tape method to gain an image, but no luck.
Symptom:
No picture no sound.
When I plug in the power cord, Backlight LED turns on for a half second and then turns off. The red LED next to the power button located center bottom flashes 2 or 3 times. When the power button is pressed after, it does the same thing.
No sound at all.
What I tried:
1. I tried unplugging the left or right ribbon...
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