hitachi 75hl16t64u - not responding to remote control

[dfear]

I have a hitachi 75hl16t64u tv in for repair and it is driving me crazy.
It came in for a power issue which I have finally resolved by replacing the power supply.

The current issue is that the TV does not respond to the remote control. I have replaced the IR sensor board with a used one but the fault persists.

Anyone have a clue how to fix TV?

FYI: I have checked the remote work s by pointing it at my camera on my phone.

[nomoresonys]

New batteries in the remote? try a universal remote, just to see if it will work, do the buttons on tv work? Something that works sometimes is take batteries out, push all the buttons several times and retry.

[lotas]

The IR sensor might not fit the pinout you installed; they have different pinouts.

[nomoresonys]

Put the old one back in and test with multimeter, one of the connector pins should change voltage when you give it a signal from remote if working, may be some mlc capacitors on the ir board to check.

[nomoresonys]

Can try a simple reset, take batteries out of remote, unplug tv, hold power button on tv down for 30 seconds, wait 2 minutes plug tv in put batteries in remote and retry.

[lotas]

This doesn’t mean anything, even if the sensor is not working, the output voltage will change, but the processor will not understand the commands...

[nomoresonys]

can also try take batteries out, hold power button down on remote for 1 minute, push all the other buttons a few times and retry.

[Diah]

this is Vestel 17MB130S MB, put every things back as original and use Mouse IR Keyboards or universal RC--- when there are response then some one play with it before it come under yours hand... or glitch at Profile firmware happened.. need to check after download the profile on USB if it marked Hitachi RC

MB

[nomoresonys]

This doesn't mean anything, even if the sensor is not working, the output voltage will change, but the processor will not understand the commands...

Just knock it off, I'm talking about the IR sensor; If the IR LED is working, the multimeter should display a voltage drop, typically around 1.2 to 1.7 volts, depending on the specific LED.

[nomoresonys]

This doesn't mean anything, even if the sensor is not working, the output voltage will change, but the processor will not understand the commands...

Told you before to knock off those snide comments that are completely WRONG didn't I. Just like the guy with the blue ray player needed a remote with a dimmer, THAT was wrong, I told him it was a capacitor issue, which was right. So go run your BS at someone else. Because you will just come away looking stupid when you direct it at me.

[nomoresonys]

And YES mods, I am driving home the point, because this guy never quits, just like davi. And before the owner or anyone else, says oh you're being over sensitive, it is not when it happens time and again constantly. Is this guy your hero, maybe he is BUT to me he's just an assshole who obviously thinks he knows more than everyone else here combined. And he sure as hell does NOT.

[EazyBone]

Get a different remote. I have a universal one for most rokus. Hitachi won't work on Onn and TCL not for Hisense (or some variation) sometimes. Try a new one. I have a bag of them so that's what I'd do. I've had this happen before to me and that's what handled it.

Maybe but may be not.

[Diah]

Get a different remote. I have a universal one for most rokus. Hitachi won't work on Onn and TCL not for Hisense (or some variation) sometimes. Try a new one. I have a bag of them so that's what I'd do. I've had this happen before to me and that's what handled it.

Maybe but may be not.

try to own old mobile Samsung galaxy s5 it had ir sender,,, put on sw and use it over all brands... so easy so i do have

[lotas]

And YES mods, I am driving home the point, because this guy never quits, just like davi. And before the owner or anyone else, says oh you're being over sensitive, it is not when it happens time and again constantly. Is this guy your hero, maybe he is BUT to me he's just an assshole who obviously thinks he knows more than everyone else here combined. And he sure as hell does NOT.

There is no need to be so nervous, nerve cells are not restored, take care of yourself!

[nomoresonys]

Not nervous, just have no tolerance for stupidity. This isn't rocket science, so even if you did know everything there was to know it still wouldn't be very impressive, can you grasp that. So instead of wrongly making statements about others being wrong when they're right, maybe you should try checking facts first...sooo maybe it is thou that are nervous.

[EazyBone]

try to own old mobile Samsung galaxy s5 it had ir sender,,, put on sw and use it over all brands... so easy so i do have

I use a flipper zero. Fun little device

[dfear]

Put the old one back in and test with multimeter, one of the connector pins should change voltage when you give it a signal from remote if working, may be some mlc capacitors on the ir board to check.

I have done that today. There is no change in voltage on any pin (of the is sensor connector board on the main board). I Have done the same test with two mains boards and two IR sensor boards. All tests result in no reaction from the remote control.

[dfear]

The IR sensor might not fit the pinout you installed; they have different pinouts.

The two IR sensors have the same part number: 17LD186.

[dfear]

New batteries in the remote? try a universal remote, just to see if it will work, do the buttons on tv work? Something that works sometimes is take batteries out, push all the buttons several times and retry.

I have tried new batteries. the button on the TV does work.

[dfear]

Just knock it off, I'm talking about the IR sensor; If the IR LED is working, the multimeter should display a voltage drop, typically around 1.2 to 1.7 volts, depending on the specific LED.

I have tried 2 different IR sensor boards, each with 2 different main boards, and both sets of tests have very similar results.