Re: PHILIPS 42PFL3704D/F7 no picture
It is the same part number as the one n my TV but is not the board I physically have
It is the same part number as the one n my TV but is not the board I physically have
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Re: PHILIPS 42PFL3704D/F7 no picture
I will get pics of all the boards tomorrow but I cannot tonight as we have company and I have nowhere to take it apart.Comment
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Re: PHILIPS 42PFL3704D/F7 no picture
OK, then we need the pictures of your board tomorrow to see if the pins on the connector has any labeling for each pin or not.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
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Re: PHILIPS 42PFL3704D/F7 no picture
Ok Thank you.Sorry to have wasted your time this evening.Comment
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Re: PHILIPS 42PFL3704D/F7 no picture
I have added some pics. I am not exactly sure what you want to see close ups of just let me know. I looked at the schematic for the tv and checked the pins that I could find labeled for backlight.. one is backlight on and the other is labeled backlight adjust. The inverter board is only connected to the main power board via the 14 pin harness as far as I know. Pins 1 - 5 have 52 volts, 6 - 12 have zero v. 13 has 5v 14 has 5.2 v. I have 24 volts on both sides of the fuse on the inverter board. no power on any wires leaving the inverterboard to the CCFTsAttached FilesComment
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Re: PHILIPS 42PFL3704D/F7 no picture
rest of picsAttached FilesComment
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Re: PHILIPS 42PFL3704D/F7 no picture
Wires 11 and 12 are blue same as 13 and 14 but have no power going thru them.. I have attached the manual i looked at. Pages 47 and 48. I am not sure which schematic to use. they list the same part but show different wiring.Comment
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Hello, this is my first post on this forum, and my first attempted to repair a TV.
My Philips 58PUS7805/12 stopped working recently. It is not that old, about 5 years. We were on a trip for a few days and when we came back, it had stopped working out of a blue (Perhaps our house was hit by a lightning strike? Don't know.)
Read from a guide that I should test if the screen shows picture with one of the T-Con cables disconnected. Did that, it showed perfect picture (first on left, later on right side).
Read also that we should test what happens if we... -
Hey everyone,
the picture on my philips monitor looks way too bright so that black appears grey and colors also seem too bright.
While i tried to tilt the screen a little bit while it was displaying a picture, i´ve noticed, that there appeared some purple pixels. In the following picture
you can see them on the top half of the photo.
At a certain point during the tilting, the picture looked normal again but as soon as i laid it back down, the purple pixels were gone and the picture was bright again.
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HI.
I have a weird problem with an old Philips 37pfl560 TV i put out of storage: the picture have a noticeable yellow hue, and its not caused by the settings (did a factory reset). I've never seen this before. I will try to get a photo with a real camera, with my phone its hard to see because of automatic white balance, but in real live the whites are really yellow.
Anyone have an idea of what can cause this? Can CCFL tubes get "warmer" with time? This tv have several analog inputs,so its nice for retrogaming.... -
Hello,
My Plasma Philips 37inch chassis FTL2.1 does not show picture. It automatically goes into protection mode after 30 seconds (red led blinks at 3Hz)
Is there someone having any symptom like this? How to fix it?
Thanks in advance!08-06-2024, 09:55 PM -
Hi,
I'm having trouble with above mentioned TV. Bought it defect.
Picture was heavily compressed around the horizontal axis. Fiddeled and tried different things (mask clock lines, swap T-Con). But no difference.
Then I identified a heating capacitor on the left hand Signal-PCB (?) below the display. Replaced it by hand soldering. Checked for shorts afterwards. But now the screen stays black.
I can see backlight, but screen stays black.
What I've tried:
- Disconnect right side cable from T-Con -> same (backlight but no pic)
- Disconnect left side...
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