Panasonic TC-P42S30

[tom66]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

-VAD on newer Panasonic cannot always be adjusted. The adjust potentiometer is usually marked.

[tw2005]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

The only adjustable trimpots you'll find, which they factory set and seal in position are on the PSU.

VR251 Vsus
VR261 Vda which I think is best left alone.

Vsus adjustment high/low in service menu also. Mark original position and note voltage before adjustments if you're going to fiddle. Very much doubt changing Vsus will fix it, I had no luck with the X20.

[Rybo]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

The only adjustable trimpots you'll find, which they factory set and seal in position are on the PSU.

VR251 Vsus
VR261 Vda which I think is best left alone.

Vsus adjustment high/low in service menu also. Mark original position and note voltage before adjustments if you're going to fiddle. Very much doubt changing Vsus will fix it, I had no luck with the X20.

Hmm... so not much chance either of these are going to fix the problem. Any other ideas of what I can try?

[tw2005]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

Have not got a clue.

This is'nt going to solve anything but if you go into serv mode and flick through the test patterns, do any of them appear normal like the small white box and black background for example.

Just trying to compare your situation to mine.

[Rybo]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

Sorry to seem helpless, but how do I put it into serv mode?

[tw2005]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

section 6 of the SM,

While pressing [VOLUME ( - )] button of the main unit, press [INFO] button of the remote control three times within 2 seconds

AGING is where the patterns are.




6.1.2. Key command
[1] button...Main items Selection in forward direction
[2] button...Main items Selection in reverse direction
[3] button...Sub items Selection in forward direction
[4] button...Sub items Selection in reverse direction
[VOL] button...Value of sub items change in forward direction ( + ), in reverse direction ( - )
6.1.3. How to exit
Switch off the power with the [POWER] button on the main unit or the [POWER] button on the remote control.

[Rybo]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

Have not got a clue.

This is'nt going to solve anything but if you go into serv mode and flick through the test patterns, do any of them appear normal like the small white box and black background for example.

Just trying to compare your situation to mine.

The small white box with black background - looks perfect. Sharp edges around the box, really nice dark black.

Solid bars of different colors - looks perfect except on the white I can see pink fuzzies.

Anything with white has pink in it and some ghost images from who knows where.

[tom66]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

So, are you sure VSUS is OK? Not too high or low?

[Rybo]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

In the serv mode, I saw a VSUS setting. It had a low and high. I twiddled that and it didn't have any effect on the pink problem. I guess I can try adjusting the trim pot for VSUS and seeing if that does anything.

[Rybo]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

Someone suggested I try the screen wipe function (scrolling white bars). After just a few minutes,the pink seems to be less intense and some of the ghost images seem to be disappearing. I'll report back.

[tom66]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

Try measuring VSUS voltage first. Should be around 205 to 215V for a TV like this.

[Rybo]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

Try measuring VSUS voltage first. Should be around 205 to 215V for a TV like this.

I messed with adjusting VSUS from about 206 to 220. It did change the picture, but didn't take away the pink ghosting problem.

So here's the entire story on this TV. Hopefully it will be useful to someone else encountering something similar.

My bro-in-law was watching it and it just died. He's had it just a couple years. He tried replacing the power board as he read somewhere that might be the problem. Didn't change anything. He then decided he didn't want to mess with it and offered it to me for a really good price if I'd fix it (and sell the power board he bought on eBay for him to get some cash back out of that).

I made the mistake of trying the easy route and replacing what I thought was the next obvious component - the A board. While waiting for that to arrive, I figured I'd try mess with the old board to see if it was a bad solder joint. I read some guides to cooking motherboards in a kitchen oven to reflow the solder. What the heck, what did I have to lose, right? (wrong). I did get it reflowed, but melted some plastic in the process (the RCA jacks' colored plastic rings). Tried the board and TV still didn't turn on.

The new motherboard finally came and I tried it. No go. So then I did what I should have done in the first place - found a cool forum like this and get all the troubleshooting guides on the TV. I found the reference to the shorted SN2 connector. I tested that and found it shorted. I also found that I got no voltage across this connector (of course ... it's shorted) when powering up. If I disconnected that connector, I got 215V at the power supply. I tested the 30F131 parts and found four shorted. Removed those, and the short was gone. Tested the other diodes in the vicinity and they seemed fine.

When I got the FGD4536TM parts in, I soldered them in. Then the TV powered up (yay!) but had a really bad picture with some ghosting and a pinkish hue.

The replacement A board I had ordered was taking a really long time to arrive. Seemed to have some fishy stuff going on with the seller, so I ordered another one. It came first and that's the one I had put in. By the time I had the IGBTs in hand and had tried them, the other board came. I figured I'd try that one one in case this problem with the pink ghosting was a result of the A board. Sure enough, when I put in the first A board I'd ordered, it worked like a charm! Great picture!

So hopefully that helps someone else at some point. Good luck to all getting yours working! Seems like a great TV so far.

[tw2005]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

I messed with adjusting VSUS from about 206 to 220. It did change the picture, but didn't take away the pink ghosting problem.

So here's the entire story on this TV. Hopefully it will be useful to someone else encountering something similar.

My bro-in-law was watching it and it just died. He's had it just a couple years. He tried replacing the power board as he read somewhere that might be the problem. Didn't change anything. He then decided he didn't want to mess with it and offered it to me for a really good price if I'd fix it (and sell the power board he bought on eBay for him to get some cash back out of that).

I made the mistake of trying the easy route and replacing what I thought was the next obvious component - the A board. While waiting for that to arrive, I figured I'd try mess with the old board to see if it was a bad solder joint. I read some guides to cooking motherboards in a kitchen oven to reflow the solder. What the heck, what did I have to lose, right? (wrong). I did get it reflowed, but melted some plastic in the process (the RCA jacks' colored plastic rings). Tried the board and TV still didn't turn on.

The new motherboard finally came and I tried it. No go. So then I did what I should have done in the first place - found a cool forum like this and get all the troubleshooting guides on the TV. I found the reference to the shorted SN2 connector. I tested that and found it shorted. I also found that I got no voltage across this connector (of course ... it's shorted) when powering up. If I disconnected that connector, I got 215V at the power supply. I tested the 30F131 parts and found four shorted. Removed those, and the short was gone. Tested the other diodes in the vicinity and they seemed fine.

When I got the FGD4536TM parts in, I soldered them in. Then the TV powered up (yay!) but had a really bad picture with some ghosting and a pinkish hue.

The replacement A board I had ordered was taking a really long time to arrive. Seemed to have some fishy stuff going on with the seller, so I ordered another one. It came first and that's the one I had put in. By the time I had the IGBTs in hand and had tried them, the other board came. I figured I'd try that one one in case this problem with the pink ghosting was a result of the A board. Sure enough, when I put in the first A board I'd ordered, it worked like a charm! Great picture!

So hopefully that helps someone else at some point. Good luck to all getting yours working! Seems like a great TV so far.

You're kidding. So the substitute transistors actually did the job but you just tried a third A board out of the blue and it's perfect after all?

Well, good news for you. That may put paid to mine too then because I attempted to do an A board conversion/rebuild and ended up with a similar display like yours but the white on black test pattern too was perfect.



Thanks for the info.

[850csi]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

The SN board fixed it!

I have the exact same problem as you did in the OP (power on -> solid red, hold power for 5 sec -> 14 blinks) - did you end up just replacing the entire SN board?

[flashcoder]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

I have the same issue with my TC-P42ST30

One day it simply switched off and then got solid red power led. If I press the power switch again I get those 14 blinks.

Found short on SN2/P2. Pulled SN board, found two shorted 30F131 MOSFETs and replaced them. No shorts anywhere else. Powered the thing on and nothing changed. Checked SN2/P2 - short again. Pulled the SN again and now four 30F131 are shot. What is going on here? Could it be one of the driver chips shorted? Or maybe the panel is dead? How do I proceed from now?

The widely available manual "2011- Plasma FHD TV – (14th Generation) for TC-PXXST30" is pretty useless, there is no troubleshooting beyond board replacement. I was reading somewhere that SN board can be killed by bad SS board but I cant find anything wrong with SS board..

I need some help here.

Thanks,
Neal

[tw2005]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

I have the same issue with my TC-P42ST30

One day it simply switched off and then got solid red power led. If I press the power switch again I get those 14 blinks.

Found short on SN2/P2. Pulled SN board, found two shorted 30F131 MOSFETs and replaced them. No shorts anywhere else. Powered the thing on and nothing changed. Checked SN2/P2 - short again. Pulled the SN again and now four 30F131 are shot. What is going on here? Could it be one of the driver chips shorted? Or maybe the panel is dead? How do I proceed from now?

The widely available manual "2011- Plasma FHD TV – (14th Generation) for TC-PXXST30" is pretty useless, there is no troubleshooting beyond board replacement. I was reading somewhere that SN board can be killed by bad SS board but I cant find anything wrong with SS board..

I need some help here.

Thanks,
Neal

It was probably 4 shorted to begin with. It is possible the driver ccts get damaged.

PTS Electronics inc can rebuild $75.58

[flashcoder]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

It was probably 4 shorted to begin with. It is possible the driver ccts get damaged.

PTS Electronics inc can rebuild $75.58

Well, how can I be sure that after it gets repaired it will not fry the SN board again? I am sure there was no short after I replaced the first two blown 30F131 MOSFETs. Unless some of the other four were blown in a different way that it did not short. I checked the diodes too all are fine. I tried to find shorts around driver chips - no shorts on any of test points.
I went through SS board and I dont see how it is linked to SN board except through main logic board A.
Could it be that the plasma panel is dead and causing the damage to SN board?
I dont completely understand how the plasma panel works so it might be a dumb question. I have only repaired some LCD monitors and TVs so far.

Neal

[tw2005]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

Well, how can I be sure that after it gets repaired it will not fry the SN board again? I am sure there was no short after I replaced the first two blown 30F131 MOSFETs. Unless some of the other four were blown in a different way that it did not short. I checked the diodes too all are fine. I tried to find shorts around driver chips - no shorts on any of test points.
I went through SS board and I dont see how it is linked to SN board except through main logic board A.
Could it be that the plasma panel is dead and causing the damage to SN board?
I dont completely understand how the plasma panel works so it might be a dumb question. I have only repaired some LCD monitors and TVs so far.

Neal

If PTS fixes it it probably won't because they'll test it. Either way they give 6 months wty. But they may not touch it now that you have but you could ask.

Personally unless you're somewhat experienced and prepared to fail and have several attempts regardless of cost I think $75 is a steal particularly since this board incorporates the Buffer ICs as well which also can go short.

I have not done one of these SN but have done the 5351 and 5335. Have you done a search maybe on the model or TNPA5349 and see if there are any tips from other peoples work?

the SS won't be the cause of the SN blowing in the FHD model.

This whole generation is well known for blowing the sc / sn boards and having loose screws / bad earths.

With the oririginal 2 30F131 , what location were they?

Also I'd check the buffer IC outputs first for short circuit before you rebuild this just in case.

I'll see what stuff I have info wise but it's not a step by step repair, more areas to check

[tw2005]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

Have a chew on this.

[Telefixer]

Re: Panasonic TC-P42S30

Hello TW - great info I must say. I'll be talking to my local Panasonic engineer about these, and how to get hold of them. I have found a dodgy switching driver IC - if it fixes, I'll post the results
Ian