8 blinks can also be SC, or rarely panel. Flowchart has hints to rule out panel fault.
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Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Plasma has always looked better than LED for me (even 2008 Panasonic plasma vs. 2013 Samsung LED), but the downside is they use about twice as much power.
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I am currently going through the same diagnostics as you guys have in this thread - I have a few questions regarding the replacement parts. Just to fill you in I have the 7 flashing lights and found all 30F131 IGBT components shorted (Out of circuit)........
On the parts - earlier in this thread TW you mentioned you looked at a few different components as a replacement as from what I have found like you said the only place to get the 30F131 is off eBay. My preferred option is either element14 mouser or digikey as that is where we buy all our components from for work purposes. I got slightly confused with your post below ----
They're a toshiba 360V 30A, 200A peak pulsed N channel IGBT.you will find them on ebay
I was looking at these for RJP30E2 dpak on a SS board which are also 360V 35A,
FGD4536, 360 V PDP Trench IGBT
Ended up getting IRG7S313UPBF which are only 330V 40A only because we don't have a great choice like yo see at Mouser or Digikey and postage makes it not economic which i don't understand since I can get whole boards sent from a seller in the US for only $15 but $35 for an envelope containing a transistor?
My question and confusion from this is - Is the FGD4536 a replacement component for the 30F131 or the RJP30E2?
I have also now found I have 3 more components gone in the board also labelled RHP30H2A (I am assuming its the same component as your RJP30E2).
In the end of all this could you just confirm the components I should get or whether there are replacements of the same type or not......
My diagnostics show:
6X 30F131 dead (Replacement? or purchase from ebay)
3x RJP30H2A (Replacement part? or use these component numbers)
I have also ohms tested the RF1501/RFN20NS3S and they seem fine however I have found these at digikey so if I do need to replace these then I can find them.
Wait. You replaced the 4 shorted Mosfets on the SN board, fired it up and then got an 8 blink code. Then you came back and said the SN board fixed it? Did you mean a new SS board fixed it? I'm not completely following.
Wait. You replaced the 4 shorted Mosfets on the SN board, fired it up and then got an 8 blink code. Then you came back and said the SN board fixed it? Did you mean a new SS board fixed it? I'm not completely following.
On these disconnecting the SN20 ribbon can produce SOS8. we can only assume that there was more wrong with the SN than just the shorted IGBTs which is what I would expect but some have got these going just replacing the 30f131 IGBTs.
2011 models > SC20 disconnected = 8 blinks
you'd normally think SS with SOS8 but that's what the guide says. No mention of SN/Sc in the fault finding section for SOS8 but they do mention the above in the differences between 2010 & 2011 models.
On these disconnecting the SN20 ribbon can produce SOS8. we can only assume that there was more wrong with the SN than just the shorted IGBTs which is what I would expect but some have got these going just replacing the 30f131 IGBTs.
2011 models > SC20 disconnected = 8 blinks
you'd normally think SS with SOS8 but that's what the guide says. No mention of SN/Sc in the fault finding section for SOS8 but they do mention the above in the differences between 2010 & 2011 models.
I guess we can assume that he pulled the SC20 at one point and then forgot to reconnect it. I wish he would of mentioned what exactly happened.
I really dislike when people get helped, but don't say exactly what they did to resolve an issue to help others.
First off, thanks to everyone here that posted. It really helped me.
I inherited a non-working TC-P42S30 (it was working great and then just shut off). The original owner tried replacing the power board then gave up and gave it to me. I tried replacing the motherboard. After that didn't work, I did what I should have done in the first place and looked for actual troubleshooting info. After reading this forum, I checked SN2 and found it was shorted. Then I checked the 30F131 IGBTs and found 4 of the 6 shorted. I removed these shorted parts and checked SN2 again. Now it didn't measure shorted. None of the diodes appeared shorted so I replaced just these 4 with p/n FGD4536TM from Mouser.
Powered it up and ... got a picture! But I'm still not completely out of the woods. Now, it has a poor picture - sort of a pinkish hue and some ghosting of previous images since it was powered up. Any ideas of what I can check next? A Panasonic Plasma troubleshooting guide that someone recommended shows an image described as "abnormal electric discharge" that looks a lot like what I'm seeing. It suggests the SC/SS board as a possible culprit. I think the parts I just replaced were on what it labels for this model as the SN board. Any ideas anyone? I'll make sure to post back anything I find to help others that will have my same problem.
Can we have a picture of what that looks like? If it has a pink tinge, my immediate checkpoint is to verify VSUS against panel sticker. Low VSUS voltage, especially if power board has been swapped (it is different for each panel), can cause pink tinge.
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I'm real interested to see images of what you ended up with too. Maybe my suggestion of possibly substituting those IGBTs is not a good idea? That's what I tried with my SS on a P42X20 and I have discharge issues too and I have no idea which way to go with it after having to repair an A board, C board, SN and the SS. All the voltages on mine are correct.
Can we have a picture of what that looks like? If it has a pink tinge, my immediate checkpoint is to verify VSUS against panel sticker. Low VSUS voltage, especially if power board has been swapped (it is different for each panel), can cause pink tinge.
I've attached an image. You can see the Viera menu in the background (the "ghosting" I was referring to).
How do you know where to set VSUS? How is it adjusted?
How do you know where to set VSUS? How is it adjusted?
... and could the wrong VSUS cause the ghosting as well?
The good news is it looks like there are some things to try. Looking forward to hearing how the VSUS adjustment goes. I found some other references online to adjusting VSUS, turning the trimpot to change the VSUS voltage up or down until the blacks get solid black. Sound right?
Hmm, that is not low VSUS. I have a project 37" plasma here (Panasonic, 2005 gen, 720p) and I tried various voltage adjustments, to see what happened:
- low VSUS: image retention, pink in middle, some pixels not lighting, 6 blinks code eventually
- high VSUS: odd sparkling pixels, increased sound from display (buzz noise louder)
- low VE: image retention, some pixels taking time to discharge or time to reignite
- high VE: no noticeable difference
- low -VAD: some pixels not lighting, poor diffusion, 7 blinks code
- high -VAD: no noticeable difference, 7 blinks code
I would check -VAD in your instance, and VE, though VE is less likely, it is on the SS board.
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