Visio M320SL 32" LED 1080p

[SgtRock]

Dear BadCappers:

--A friend is offering me a Vizio M320SL 32" LED 1080p TV for $50. It has vertical lines as shown in picture. I am willing to take a risk. Is it possible that it is not the tab bonds but a capacitor or card? Should I give it a try?

“If people do not believe that mathematics is simple, it is only because they do not realize how complicated life is.”
John von Neumann 1903 -1957

Best Regards
Clear Ether

[ben7]

Re: Visio M320SL 32" LED 1080p

Is that picture of the whole screen? If not, do the lines go across the whole tv screen? Was this picture taken with a video source playing on the tv? I don't know, but tom66 should...

[SgtRock]

Re: Visio M320SL 32" LED 1080p

Dear Ben7:

The stripes go all the way to the bottom. TV was hooked up to computer as a monitor. Thanks for the quick answer.

Best Regards
Clear Ether

[addytzu123]

Re: Visio M320SL 32" LED 1080p

Hi,

By the looks, it is unlikely a TAB bond/panel/PSU failure as they have effect mainly in parts of the screen.

Could be a TCON/LVDS/Main board problem. Check the voltages out of PSU, and voltages on MB and Tcon boards to be in specs.

All the best
Adi

[tom66]

Re: Visio M320SL 32" LED 1080p

I am thinking main board, t-con, PSU or panel, with main board being the top favourite.

[SgtRock]

Re: Visio M320SL 32" LED 1080p

Greetings BadCappers:

--This Vizio M320SL 32" LED TV works normally for about 10 minutes then gets the vertical stripes. Having removed the back cover, I notice that the heat sink on the main board tends to get quite hot unless I put a fan on it. I do not want to run the TV in the abnormal condition, as I am afraid of further damage. With the back off and a fan blowing just a little air on it, the heat sink stays cool to the touch, and the TV operates normally. Any advice would be appreciated.

"There are two possible outcomes: If the result confirms the hypothesis, then you've made a measurement. If the result is contrary to the hypothesis, then you've made a discovery."
Enrico Fermi 1901 1954

Best Regards
Clear Ether

[SgtRock]

Re: Visio M320SL 32" LED 1080p

Greetings BadCappers:

--I took some temperature readings using a Fluke 87V and thermocouple of the heatsink on the mainboard of the Vizio M320SL, all with the back removed.

1) With no added cooling whatsoever, the temp increased over 43 minutes to 52C, at which point the the display started to flicker to the striped pattern, and the TV was shut down, and allowed to cool.

2) An ordinary household fan on low was directed at the back of the TV from a few feet away, and the temp increased over 11 minutes to a stable reading of 38C. Display remained normal, and TV was switched off and allowed to cool.

3) A junk box Hanano Ball ball bearing fan, 51mm X 51mm X 6mm was modified. A ring terminal was soldered the ground lead and a small piece of paper clip on the hot. The paper clip piece fits well into one of the 12V slots on the PS input plug. The fan was installed, see pictures and the temp rose to 34C over 11 minutes, and was then left on for 8 hours with no problems.

--I am still waiting for the ARCTIC COOLING MX-4 Thermal Compound, to arrive, at which time I will, uninstall the main board, remove the heatsink, clean the old compound off, and identify and take pictures of the the BGA Chip (if possible). Then the face of the heatsink will be polished to a mirror finish by rubbing it on a sheet of glass with jeweler's rouge, thermal compound will be carefully reapplied, the heatsink and main board will be reinstalled and, and the temperature tests will be repeated, with and without the fan.

--Conclusions: I am assuming that the die temp must get way above the 52C measured at the heatsink, in order for the chip to go crazy, and so the heatsink and compound may not be doing a good job of sinking the heat, so replacing the compound may solve the problem, but probably not, In any case the new tests should be interesting. There is about zero clearance to install the back on the TV with the fan installed, so I may, carefully cut a hole for it. Tom66 has said it is likely that the chip will inevitably fail. When it does I will consider replacing the board, or reballing the chip, perhaps with a new one, if obtainable. I really like this TV and I plan on getting another one, as I already have a spare stand.

"Imitation is the sincerest form of television."
Fred Allen 1894 - 1956

Best Regards
Clear Ether

[truep]

Re: Visio M320SL 32" LED 1080p

I don't think the mirror finish is a very good Idea. You actually get better cooling (using thermal adhesive) than a mirror finish. It will stick better too.

[SgtRock]

Re: Visio M320SL 32" LED 1080p

Dear Truep:

--I would have to grant your point. I think a mere 600 grit finish would suffice, to provide flatness, as indicated in the below link. Thanks for the tip.

http://www.directron.com/hsflapping.html

"I'll have the Alfalfa sandwich, and the smashed yeast"
Woody Allen 1935 -

Best Regards
Clear Ether

[SgtRock]

Re: Visio M320SL 32" LED 1080p

Greetings EEVBees:

--Well, there has been a little progress, or regress, depending on how you look at it on this Vizio M320SL 32" LED TV repair. Tom66 pointed out that the ARM Chip, marked MEDIATEK ARM, MT5396CFJ, 1203-BTAH, ETNAY642, was likely to eventually fail permanently, and I thought that Tom was probably correct. So this is what I have done so far. I managed to obtain from ShopJimmy a repair kit consisting of all boards, and all cables, with a 180 day guarantee, for $92.05 US. See the attached sticker, which must have come from a new or low mileage unit with a broken screen or a similar situation.

--From looking on eBay, I found that the Main Board alone was going for about the same money, so I judged it to be a resonable investment, as I plan to buy another of these if possible. See the attached picture for the price of the three larger boards alone for $230 plus shipping.

--So it was working with the fan, but I would have had to cut a hole in the back, and even then it was unlikely to last. So, into the breech I stepped. I decided to remove the heat sink, identify the chip, remove the thermal compound, and replace it with Arctic MX-4, recommended here as the best. I tried gingerly to remove the heatsink by prying and twisting but no go. I then tried heat and managed to get it to release at about 100C. As you can see by the attached pictures, Vizio used a quicky rubber pad which had a very poor thermal connection to the chip and the heatsink. Also the heat sink was held down by loose plastic clips instead of screws. In any case, I applied the MX-4 and re-installed. The TV at first was showing the dreaded stripe pattern and now will not turn on at all, by any means. So now I have in mind to check the standby voltage, and all of the PS voltages and all voltage regulators. Any pointers would be appreciated. Once I have a better idea of what is wrong, I will proceed to try any necessary repairs, in order to get back to just the stripe problem.

--I know it seems that I am going the long way around the barn but I, am trying to learn something, just as much as I am, just trying to solve the problem at hand. So, once I am pretty sure I have the problem confined to the Main Board, I will try, blowing high pressure air under the ARM Chip on the theory that it might remove any of the Unleaded Solder Tin Whiskers, just for fun. I then will try to do a reball of the original chip, protecting the rest of the board with aluminum foil. I already have a heat gun, a Hakko 851 Rework Station (see picture), and a toaster oven for preheating, but I am thinking of getting one of the larger plate warmers and trying it. I still need to get a couple of items before proceeding, including, hopefully a wider and slightly taller heatsink, and figuring out how to screw it down, if possible, without creating a short. This is a long term project, and I will report back from time to time, as it progresses.

Any and all advice would be sincerely appreciated. I noticed that several of the screws holding the Main Board to the chassis were rather loose, and I was wondering if that could have contributed to the overheating ARM. And, does anyone know where to get a new MEDIATEK ARM, MT5396CFJ, 1203-BTAH, ETNAY642 Chip?

--If all else fails, hopefully I will be able to just install the new boards, and Bobs your uncle.

"If it weren't for Philo T. Farnsworth, inventor of television, we'd still be eating frozen radio dinners."
Johnny Carson 1925 - 1992

Best Regards
Clear Ether

[tom66]

Re: Visio M320SL 32" LED 1080p

As far as buying a new chip, that's probably not going to be possible-- even if it were, I don't see you being able to replace it.

One place to try would be heating the processor with hot air. Apply flux around the edges of the chip.

[SgtRock]

Re: Visio M320SL 32" LED 1080p

Dear Tom:

--BGA reballing is just like Brain Surgery. See one, do one, teach one. Seriously, I may indeed not succeed, but I will give it a try. I did find a source for the correct ARM chip, I believe), for $15.26, see link below, and picture at bottom. I probably will not buy one unless the original one ist kaput.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/MT539...ck_to_detail_b

--To uninstall and reinstall the ARM Chip, I plan to acquire a vintage Sunbeam Electric Frying Pan for preheating. I will make sure of the thermal profile ramp up and down to 150C, by using a thermocouple. As far as I can tell, a little slower is fine, it is just quick that causes problems. I will use a Heat Gun to reach 220C for removal, and 200 for reflow. And I will be installing a larger heatsink, cut and milled, and drilled. to fit, I judge, that I can go a couple of millimeters thicker, a couple of inches longer, and an inch or so wider, with the heatsink. And, I will try to get it screwed down without shorting or warping the Main Board.

--And, below is a video of a BGA reball, done with an absolute minimum of kit. This is the approach I intend to take.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nf-BspBQ-bk

--I just need to add the following items to my tool kit before I can start. I will report back is a 6 weeks or so, with pictures.
Vacuum Tweezers
Aluminum Tape (for shielding)
SunBeam 1/4" thick Electric Frying Pan, 12" X 12", I believe Lady Ada uses one of these.
Universal Stencil of the appropriate pitch
Leaded BGA Balls of the appropriate size
Amtek BGA Flux
Flux Brush
ESD Pad with Wrist Strap
A 90x90x12 Heatsink, to be modified to fit.

--As usual, any and all advice is gratefully considered.

--P.S. Last but not least, reballing an iPhone using just plain solder, amazing. See below link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPLBdDSUFkE

"What you will observe is a vast wasteland" (Head of FCC Referring to TV Programming, 1961.)
Newton N.Minnow 1926 -

[SgtRock]

Re: Visio M320SL 32" LED 1080p

Greetings BadCappers:

--The new Main Board from Shop Jimmy is working perfectly.

--I was able to buy a new Mediatek BGA ARM MT5396CUFJ from Alibaba for $15.36 shipping included. They informed me that they do not have any source for data sheets as they are removing the chips from old equipment, and that they are lead free. Hopefully they have already cleaned off the the old solder, so that they are tin free as well. According to the Alibaba the chip has an operating temperature of 105, and uses 66300 Watts, which I assume means 66 Watts In any case, I will continue, subject finances, to procure all that I need to do a reball, and we shall see. From my research it would appear that Kingbo is the best flux for reball projects.

Television has raised writing to a new low.
Szmuel Gelbfisz - Samuel Goldfish - Samuel Goldwyn
1879 - 1974

Best Regards
Clear Ether