Re: Sylvania lc320ss2 LCD TV keeps blowing fuse
I SEE YOU HAVE D645 zener diode shorted,What did you replace it with,REPLY thank's.
I SEE YOU HAVE D645 zener diode shorted,What did you replace it with,REPLY thank's.
Hi guys,
sorry this is going to be a long post and I'll include pictures. I just want to give out the best info to increase my chances of getting the right advise
Here are the pictures from the MPW (P/N BA17F8F0102 2) :
The first thing is that this TV original was dead. When first opened, my friend made the terrible mistake, trying to pull a fast one, and replaced the fuse with a higher rated one
which of course made everything worse.
Well when I got it I saw the replaced fuse all blown and black.
I'm learning this stuff so I was getting some little help from other forums.
Things I found, I've only focused on the primary side:
Defective two large cement resistors.
Defective mosfet.
Defective current sense resistor.
Replaced opto isolator chip as I was advised.
Also found a shorted zener (currently waiting for the replacement).
The thing is that still I have not found the root cause which seems to be a another shorted component.
-Before I replaced the above components the tv was dead. Now at least I can get stand-by, with a lightbulb attached across the fuse, if not lightbulb attached it'd blow the fuse and FET again as soon as I plug it in.
-I'm not getting the 150v on the filter cap.
The bridge rectifiers four diodes read good when checked out of the circuit.
-I did a test with a blue ring tester on the transformer and all the lights go off, meaning that there is still a short somewhere.
-The transformer reads good outside.
Something weird I hope it'll make seance to someone. when I was soldering the transformer back, I soldered the secondary joints first and took a reading with the primary side joints still desoldered and I still got the shorted, reading from the blue ring tester (could this mean that my problem is on the secondary side or that the little contact from the primary joints, even though still unsoldered were enough to indicate a short on the primary side?)
ALSO LET ME POINT OUT THAT THE ABOVE TEST PROCEDURES I'VE BEEN DOING WHILE HAVING THE SHORTED ZENER DIODE OUT OF THE CIRCUIT.
Any service manual would be welcomed too. These are some equivalent model numbers:
Emerson LC320EM2
Emerson LC320SS2
Magnavox 32MF301B/F7
Philips 32MF301B/F7
Philips lc320ss2
Thanks
sorry this is going to be a long post and I'll include pictures. I just want to give out the best info to increase my chances of getting the right advise
Here are the pictures from the MPW (P/N BA17F8F0102 2) :
The first thing is that this TV original was dead. When first opened, my friend made the terrible mistake, trying to pull a fast one, and replaced the fuse with a higher rated one
which of course made everything worse.Well when I got it I saw the replaced fuse all blown and black.
I'm learning this stuff so I was getting some little help from other forums.
Things I found, I've only focused on the primary side:
Defective two large cement resistors.
Defective mosfet.
Defective current sense resistor.
Replaced opto isolator chip as I was advised.
Also found a shorted zener (currently waiting for the replacement).
The thing is that still I have not found the root cause which seems to be a another shorted component.
-Before I replaced the above components the tv was dead. Now at least I can get stand-by, with a lightbulb attached across the fuse, if not lightbulb attached it'd blow the fuse and FET again as soon as I plug it in.
-I'm not getting the 150v on the filter cap.
The bridge rectifiers four diodes read good when checked out of the circuit.
-I did a test with a blue ring tester on the transformer and all the lights go off, meaning that there is still a short somewhere.
-The transformer reads good outside.
Something weird I hope it'll make seance to someone. when I was soldering the transformer back, I soldered the secondary joints first and took a reading with the primary side joints still desoldered and I still got the shorted, reading from the blue ring tester (could this mean that my problem is on the secondary side or that the little contact from the primary joints, even though still unsoldered were enough to indicate a short on the primary side?)
ALSO LET ME POINT OUT THAT THE ABOVE TEST PROCEDURES I'VE BEEN DOING WHILE HAVING THE SHORTED ZENER DIODE OUT OF THE CIRCUIT.
Any service manual would be welcomed too. These are some equivalent model numbers:
Emerson LC320EM2
Emerson LC320SS2
Magnavox 32MF301B/F7
Philips 32MF301B/F7
Philips lc320ss2
Thanks
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