You say it's hard to get TVs? I've never worked on an LCD bigger than 42"! Keep looking out for a 52" or something as a comparison to a 50" plasma, but can't find one.
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Yes I'm placing the pad so it presses down on the pcb, not on the panel.
I also had one vizio with a similar problem I could not fix. But in that case the problem was permanent. I assume the ic was defective or something. Those one cannot fix. But these ones that have problems with the bonding we have a chance to fix them with the thermal pad repair.
In the UK, 42" is regarded as large, and anything above 50" is very rare.
My guess is it's partly to do with the smaller living rooms we have here...
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No doubt, you have ridiculous things like $199 for a 43" Samsung plasma. I'm pretty sure it was a transient offer though.
There's a lot less regulation in the US over things like PFC, line noise, etc. so companies don't have to spend as much to make electronics for the US market.
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Sure, "testing" them...... Just like I'm "testing" the 46" Panasonic in my dorm room.
52 inch LCD in the bedroom... And I thought 32 inch was excessive... Oh how attitudes vary across the pond.
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32" is for some a PC monitor
I have a 27" Samsung monitor and a 23" LG monitor in my garage.
I would like to get something over 50" for the living room, but 46" Sony it's fine for a while.
I need to upgrade my 40" Samsung in my bedroom though, to something newer.
I can't put a bigger in the bedroom, because I have a Onkyo system(!!) there and the speakers would obstruct the view.
Since I'm mentioning this system, I need some advice from you guys.
The receiver (TX-NR609) runs pretty hot, which is normal by Onkyo, but not by me.
Right now I have a Cooler Master laptop cooler with an added by me fan speed controller plugged in into the TV's USB port and it starts and stops with the TV.
My problem is that this speed controller is made for 12V and I need one for 5V.
This way, sometimes won't even start spinning.
I have got a faulty TX-SR506 with blown transistors. You are wise to be aware of how hot those things things get. I'm putting two quiet fans when I fix it... eventually. Wiring it up to the internal 12V (non-audio: digital) rail with a series resistor to run them at 6~7V. With CEC, I can turn on and off the amplifier when the computer turns on and off, and the computer is the media PC, so that's likely to be always on when the TV's on. So the fans will only turn on when the amplifier turns on.
I have a 24" LCD monitor I'm typing on now.. My boss was about ready to chuck it in the skip but I got it off him before it was too late. Lucky for me, just had some cold solder joints around the AC plug connector. I also re-capped it, but only for reliability.
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These NR609 have HDMI board issues, so I'm trying to prevent damage to that board. I have got the whole system(HT-S7409) re-certified for $350 shipped.
Now it's a bit more, though. http://www.accessories4less.com/make...Package/1.html
Luckily the HDMI in this Onkyo is relatively... dumb. It's only a switch. I do want to get the network receiver variant. The NR609 with same fault as mine (protect mode) went for £88 recently, which was too much for me to pay. I do like all inputs combined onto HDMI, and the network receiver functionality, so maybe I'll pay more next time. Just need to fix the SR506 so I can prove to myself that I can fix an audio amplifier.
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I have a Nokia 3510i; I'll have to check if I can jailbreak it and put Android on it to do that.
You think this will support it?
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Most likely not.
I have what I have because of the TVs, otherwise I would have the same phone.
My next purchase will be a small SUV, most likely the Mazda CX-5 2.5L petrol as you would say it. Need room for TVs and I have a bad back.
This will be paid from the TV money.
LOL, yeah, I use this one because it's rugged. I've had it fall two stories and do more damage to the concrete it hits.
I tend to try and get stuff faulty first before buying it working, in fact in the past two years the old expensive (>£50) thing I bought working was my Rigol DS1102E. Those are pretty well made machines, so they don't show up as faulty often. I keep checking the University skips for a dead Agilent piece of gear. Uni students are rough on them. They die quite frequently. Two scopes, one sig gen, two PSU so far counted in 3 months.
My entire home theatre with big TV, audio amp, media PC runs under £200.
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I have a 52 inch Samsung LCD tv I have a 6" multi color vertical lines down the center of it I read some posts hear about the bonding tabs and I was able to find the bad tab but when I put the metal frame back down the metal tape brushed the the little square things on the board marked left now the whole screen is multi color lines
I did 3 tab bond repairs lately, all were 46" and 2 were Sanyo last one was a Vizio. The Sanyo's had the same panel and the same failure on the top right tab bond.
I was able to fix the first one and I beleive it is still going stong.
The second one was a bigger pain, I would believe I had the pad in the right place, put it back together and then the problem would come back. I did that about 3 times and finally from messing with it so much I started getting vertical lines and wound up giving up.
The Vizio was the top left seemed OK when I was done, although every once in a while I would see the screen kinda flicker for a second. So who knows how long it will hold up.
I sold that TV cheap and told them what I did and the risk..
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