Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Eliminating the inverter board

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #21
    Re: Eliminating the inverter board

    Good news. The lcd and sound still run without the inverter. Makes sense. The only thing connecting the inverter to the main board are two connectors with a bunch of grounds, an on/off, and some other things (VIN, Vsel, VEPWM, VIPWM). No clue what those are. I suppose they are to control the light level.

    As a side note I may have found the original problem. There is a tiny fuse or something that seems to be burned out on the main board. It bridges away from one of the connectors coming from the inverter. I noticed it looked a little burned when I first opened the tv up but really took notice when it sparked every time the ccfls tried to light up.




    I suppose if anyone knows what this is I could try to fix it. Otherwise with that issue (which may not fix the problem) plus a new ccfl bulb it may cost the same to install leds.

    If I do install leds all I need to do is figure out which is the hot wire on that connector.

    Comment


      #22
      Re: Eliminating the inverter board

      That's an inductor

      Value ~1-4.7µH 1206.
      Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
      For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.

      Comment


        #23
        Re: Eliminating the inverter board

        Any consistent reason why these go bad.

        Comment


          #24
          Re: Eliminating the inverter board

          Under sized, cold solder joints, shorted load?
          Never stop learning
          Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

          Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

          Inverter testing using old CFL:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

          Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
          http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

          TV Factory reset codes listing:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

          Comment


            #25
            Re: Eliminating the inverter board

            That sounds like a generic answer. :-)

            BTW: Anyone have a good led supplier. I've shopped around but can't really find that "you can find any led here" type of place.
            Last edited by hansen01; 04-20-2012, 04:29 PM.

            Comment


              #26
              Re: Eliminating the inverter board

              Well it cannot not any more generic than that, all three of the above can cause it to burn up.
              Never stop learning
              Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

              Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

              Inverter testing using old CFL:
              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

              Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
              http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

              TV Factory reset codes listing:
              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

              Comment


                #27
                Re: Eliminating the inverter board

                If theres a short on the board replacing the inducor will be dangerous as it will likely explode again once you try the monitor again.

                Im thinking , though budm knows more then me, that you should try testing the dc voltages to ground with the board disconnected and your meter on resistance? Try aranging the probes in both orders (red on ground vs black on ground)

                If you are getting really low resistances from the voltages to ground then there probably a short. I think under 1000 ohms would be a bad sign?

                If the part just went bad cause it was a little undersized / low quality, then replacing it should be fairly safe ... as in it will last a few more years
                Fixed so far 12 lcd's , 1 plasmas, 5 monitors, 0 dlp's (plan to keep the dlps at 0). and 3 atx power supplies, and 2 motherboards.

                Comment

                Working...
                X