Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

[eTanium]

Hi, all! Thanks for taking a look at my post. Hopefully one of you have come across this issue in the past, and will be able to assist me in repairing my TV.

I've searched through this forum (and many others, but this one seems to be the best), on how to fix my issue, but I have hit a wall.

***NOTE – I just tried to turn my TV on so I could better describe the blinking error code, and the damn thing started just fine! See, Demons! Sometimes it works, and other times it wants to break my heart – read on for more info.

Here is my story:
Last week I went to turn on my TV, and it failed to produce a picture or sound – it only blinked an error code on the bottom right panel (more about that later). I didn't see any signs of a power outage, or surges (there were no storms in the area).

I then went online to research the issue. I read that this TV is known to have issues with the sound board, and that the error lights might be indicating that. It was suggested that I do a hard reset by:
1) Unplugging the TV
2) Holding the power button down
3) Plug the TV back in while still holding the power button
4) Continue to hold the power button until the TV resets itself and boots

I did this, and it worked! The sound didn't seem 100%, and I figured there was a blown speaker, or something to do with the sound board, but I left it at that for the time being.

Thinking that things were swell, I went to turn the TV on the next night, and the same thing happened – only this time the Power Reboot trick didn't do anything! Bam, back to the internet; ohh how I love you! My surfing brought me to this form, where I proceeded to do research on “Sharp Error Codes.” After reading a few posts, I was able to download the Service Manual for my TV (the one that came with the TV was useless – more of a user's guide); thanks @PlainBill for the link.

I went all the way through this manual looking for references to the error codes, but only found a section on trouble shooting via testing circuits and what not. I'm not afraid of my soldering iron, but before I go tearing open my TV, I was hoping to better narrow down the cause of the problem via the error codes. That's where I was hoping someone on here could help – help me decipher the error code lights, and the root cause of the TV's failure.

Error code Description:
The green Power and Sleep lights blink on and off twice together, and then the green OPC light blinks once. 2-2-1 2-2-1 - Repeat.

Any thoughts?

Sorry for the essay, haha, the post god kind of long.
-Ethan

[eTanium]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

UPDATE!

I just tried to turn my TV back on, after posting above, and it failed again! I believe it's a new error code too!

Power and OPC light flash twice together, and then the OPC light flashes once, then the sequence repeats.

2-2-1

THIS IS DRIVING ME CRAZY!

[tom66]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

The intermittent symptoms you describe are characteristic of a bad solder joint.

Can you take pictures of the insides of your TV?

Do you have a digital multimeter (DMM)? If not - a basic model which is all you need is about $3 from some large DIY store in the USA (not sure which.) .

[cashkennedy]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

If the error codes are changing, then perhaps the power supply is not giving stable voltage?, Just a total guess, but its easy to take the back off the tv and use a multimeter to check all the power supply output voltages, and they should be labeled on the board, usually a 5v standby, 12v, and 24v.

The "large" store with $3 multimeters that he is refering to is harbor freight tools, its kinda small in terms of building size lol, but its in almost every city.

[eTanium]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

Ok, thanks for the replies.

This is a good starting point. I will pull the TV apart and get some photos going. From there, I will need help finding where to test the voltages and stuff. I can get a meter from my dad.

[eTanium]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

The intermittent symptoms you describe are characteristic of a bad solder joint.

Can you take pictures of the insides of your TV?

Do you have a digital multimeter (DMM)? If not - a basic model which is all you need is about $3 from some large DIY store in the USA (not sure which.) .

Ok, so I am making a bit of progress here (it's been a busy weekend, and I was only able to get to taking apart my TV just now). Here is a picture of the back panel of my TV. I added some labeling to the major components to make it easier for us to talk about them - I am not familiar with the electronic jargon surrounding this TV's inner boards.

I didn't see any loose/bad solder joints on the exposed boards. I noticed that there are a few boards (mainly video input boards I, H, and D - which isn't an input) that are covered by metal cases. I have not yet taken those off in hope that the problem is simpler than that, and will expose itself in this picture (sorry - blurry).

Thanks again for all the help! I love learning new skills and fixing things myself (as well as saving a ton of $$$ )!

[selldoor]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

I have not yet taken those off in hope that the problem is simpler than that, and will expose itself in this picture (sorry - blurry).

You've got to be joking - blurry pictures are not going to be much use.

Still it gives a good idea of the layout and the labels are a nice touch.

More will be required but as a start post clear pictures of A and G.
Do not post In Line - use Manage attachments which is in Go Advanced which you will find at the bottom of quick reply box.
Pictures should be .jpg no bigger than 2000x2000 file size 2gb.
We need to be able to read the component designation numbers. A close up of the board number and revision and a close up of connection sockets with the designations pson 2v 3.3v 12v gnd etc(if any)will help.
You should also post the board numbers.


Just a quickfix suggestion try pulling all the connectors and reseating them just in case one has worked loose.

[eTanium]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

I have not yet taken those off in hope that the problem is simpler than that, and will expose itself in this picture (sorry - blurry).

You've got to be joking - blurry pictures are not going to be much use.

Still it gives a good idea of the layout and the labels are a nice touch.

More will be required but as a start post clear pictures of A and G.
Do not post In Line - use Manage attachments which is in Go Advanced which you will find at the bottom of quick reply box.
Pictures should be .jpg no bigger than 2000x2000 file size 2gb.
We need to be able to read the component designation numbers. A close up of the board number and revision and a close up of connection sockets with the designations pson 2v 3.3v 12v gnd etc(if any)will help.
You should also post the board numbers.


Just a quickfix suggestion try pulling all the connectors and reseating them just in case one has worked loose.

Thank you for the replay. I am sorry about the blurry picture - I don't own a nice camera, just an old cell phone one =/ (it's on the wish list).

I will look deeper into I/H/D, and get better pictures of all boards, and make sure to use the forum's manage attachments.

As for your quick fix. What location are you referring to for the connectors? As far as electronics go, I build computers, and do minimal soldering. So, I'm sorry to be out of the know here....

[selldoor]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

I mean ALL of them as the error is changing - I dont mean unsolder, just disconnect the cables from sockets and then put them back.

You can clean the flat ones if you want.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfbmQRuqDD0
Its got to be worth a try?
Skip first 3 minutes - just shows its white screen then dissassembly,

[eTanium]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

I mean ALL of them as the error is changing - I dont mean unsolder, just disconnect the cables from sockets and then put them back.

You can clean the flat ones if you want.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfbmQRuqDD0
Its got to be worth a try?
Skip first 3 minutes - just shows its white screen then dissassembly,

A related video to the one you posted helped me look for blown capacitors, and I wiggled/disconnected-reconnected most of the cables/ribbons. I didn't find any blown capacitors, and the cables all seemed secure.

I tested the TV, and got the same results as before - error codes.

One thing to note, is that when I plug the TV in, I immediately hear a "Tick - Tock" type sound before the error code starts to blink. The board receives power but something trips and disables it (tick as being turned on - tock as being disconnected).

Where do I start testing with a voltage meter to see where power is lacking?

Attached are some detailed pictures of all the boards.

Thanks.

[selldoor]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

Hi - whilst I have got you started, I do not know a great deal about TVs
You will have to hope some of our TV Gurus will pick it up.
Your Power board is a DPS-304bp-1
Unfortunately I can find no schematics or service manual to help with the error codes.
There is this on Fixya - which is not much help but has some of the tests
the TV members will suggest. They will do it in a logical order but at least it
reading this will get you some jargon.
http://www.fixya.com/support/t166940...s_power_supply

I also found a picture of a similar board on which we can see the connector
designations which will be useful

[eTanium]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

Ok, so we're getting somewhere!

That post you linked me to describes the exact problem that I am having. Yet, it points out testing points that I am not aware of.

Would it be easier to buy a whole new power supply, or try to figure out which component on the power board is bad?

I have found a whole board here for $60:
http://www.shopjimmy.com/sharp-rdenc...wer-supply.htm

If it is easier to figure out what went bad on the board, and easy to replace it, what should I be testing? The below quote from the post on Fixya is confusing.

Voltage measurements indicate the primary side is getting good 120VAC from the DC-2541-1A (a/k/a RUNTKA317WJQZ) board & I've measured some 5VDC and 3VDC points on the secondary side, but I have not found any 15VDC or 60V or any other voltages (which I suppose could be due to the fact p/s is not "starting" up).

Help with Jargon:
primary side - I take it that this is the power board itself? Where the external power is plugged into the TV?

secondary side - The main board that receives power from the power board?



So, this is the power supply unit:


What board is this? The power converter board?




I feel that we are on the right track here. My small living room (main room of my apartment) has been taken over by TV components and tools scattered about, haha. I need to take back my living space, and get my Netflix back!

So, I appreciate everyone's help.

[selldoor]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

I did ask you not to post in line and in this case it was totally unnecessary
as you could have said what are boards A & G in my first picture called.

A is the Power Supply Board and G is a Power Supply Filter board - I have just looked it up on google - you could have done that?

They are often just combined onto the Power Supply Board

Help with Jargon:
primary side - I take it that this is the power board itself? Where the external power is plugged into the TV?

secondary side - The main board that receives power from the power board?

You are partly correct -this is very important for you to know and understand.

The Terms normally relate to a single power supply board where you have both primary and secondary voltages on the one board. Primary is at mains voltage - 120 VAC in the US and secondary is the voltage after it has been reduced - usually to 24v 12v 5v 3.3v all DC.
If you look at your A board you will see a hatched black line going around the components roughly on the right hand side of your board. Everything inside that box and anything straddling the line is going to be Primary
- at high voltage. ALSO the small G Board is Primary at high voltage.
Most of the rest of the set is at secondary voltage EXCEPT for The Inverter
Board or transformers and the CCFL ( Back Lights) and circuitry which can be at up to 2000volts - so no poking about unguided. Most members will advise at the time of you are in a danger zone. Take care with Heat Sinks
which can also be "live" and give a nasty jolt.
Another rule you might as well learn is that you measure voltages with the power on and resistance with the power off ( and unplugged for 5 minutes)

TV components and tools scattered about

Its going to get worse - try and be methodical - label things and take photos as you go along- not to post - just so as you know where bits came from so you can put them back. You may think you can remember but when you dont know what parts are after a few days on you'll be pleased you did this. Screws are the worst - they seem to go missing yet you always have some left over. ( well i do)

[tom66]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

A power supply is divided into two parts for safety reasons.

The primary side is connected to the plug - you can trace the power wires through the additional line filter board.

The secondary side is connected to the rest of the TV and is ultimately where everything is powered from. Notice the line between sides. Only a few safety rated components cross this gap.

You have a Delta power supply which has lots of very high quality capacitors on it, so I'd first check for solder joints that look cracked or dull in colour (most should shine. A "cold" joint will appear dull grey.)

[eTanium]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

I did ask you not to post in line and in this case it was totally unnecessary

I apologize, and misread your earlier reply - I thought the issue was about having images hosted off the forums, where they might not be available when needed in the post.

I read this post earlier, about image posting, which didn't warn against inline images, but I can see your point about them:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1868


Thank you for the information about the power boards. Also, I have been keeping all the screws in a sealed container, and have pictures of items I removed before/after so that I can reference them when I need to. I have such a small apartment, that having my TV on my coffee table takes up half the room. =/

[eTanium]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

Ok, here's an update. After looking over the power board and not seeing bad solder joints or capacitors, I followed the advice from this post:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t166940...s_power_supply

and ordered a new power board. I installed it, and got the same error code!

This leads me to believe that it's the power converter board, no?


I am borrowing a meter from my father, and am asking for a little help on what to check for voltage. In a post on fixya, they suggested this:

Buy the green light going on means Standby is ok. Next, would be to locate the plug coming from the main board to the power supply and find the post that says PO which means power on. With your meter on that post, press the power button as see if the reading goes High, if it does then the main board is able to turn on the power supply. Next, find the plug on the power supply that goes to the inverter( the long board on the side) remove it and see if you have 24 volts coming out of the power supply when you press the power. If you do, then the inverter board is bad, if you don't have 24 v, then the power supply is bad. There are NO diagrams available for these set other than a flow chart if you can find one. A regular svc tech does'nt need a manual for these anyway.

from the main board to the power supply
I have located the pin, but have to remove the connection to get to it. Do I measure the pin on the power board, or on the main board? If it is the on the main board, it wouldn't show any voltage at all, due to having the connection between it and the power board removed, no?

This leads me to think that I would have to measure from the power board's pin. I should do this with it plugged in, no? I'm not running a risk of damaging anything if I do?

This pin, and all other #1 pins - I think, on the board are connected via a black wire - ground, no? Is that where I put the meter to test?

What voltage should be coming from the power converter board?
what voltage should be leaving the power board and sent to the inverter board? In a reply above, I read it to be 1000 volts? Should I not be measuring the outgoing voltage to the inverter from the power supply board due to this high voltage?

[selldoor]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

What is "power converter board" where did you get that term from. Best to use the
letter designations from your picture so we all know what you mean. I cant believe you bought a new board without waiting to test the old one. Anyway see if you can find a Service Manual or Schematic on the internet for L-46D64U and download it.

[eTanium]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

What is "power converter board" where did you get that term from. Best to use the
letter designations from your picture so we all know what you mean. I cant believe you bought a new board without waiting to test the old one. Anyway see if you can find a Service Manual or Schematic on the internet for L-46D64U and download it.

Others had suggested I replace the board to fix the problem; it worked for them, but not for me!

The 'converter board' I am speaking of is 'G' in the image I first posted, but I believe the correct term is, 'Power Supply Filter board'?

I have the service Manual, but it's all Greek to me at this point. I can return the new power supply board - no worries. Before I do all that, I want to tes the Power Supply Filter board's output into the power supply and make sure it's where it needs to be - I am just not sure how to do that.

I have all the equipment - the meter and such - I just need a little guidance as to which setting to put the meter on, and then as to which pins (there are only two - white/black hot/ground) to test from the Power Supply Filter board output, and what the correct output should be. If this is detailed in the manual, under what section?

After testing that, and if there isn't an issue with its output, I will need to test the output from the power supply board to all the other various boards.

Thanks for the reply. Hopefully you're able to share some more of your knowledge with me?

[selldoor]

Re: Sharp Aquos LC-46D64U - HAS DEMONS!

Post a picture of your meter and the make/model number. See if you can find an instruction book on the net for it. Practice on a few things batteries. Check a few resistors on the board - readings will not be accurate but just to get you into the
way of holding the probes and looking at the screen. Might sound a bore but there have been a few posts in the last week where probes have slipped and ruined components and a power board in one case.
Its late-ish over here and I have an early get up tomorrow but others will help.