D5022 and 5009 sounds good. pull d5018 and test off board
I pulled one side of the D5018 up off the board, then put my black probe on the striped side of the diode and the red on the other. On diode test volts I get .460 volts and when I reverse the probes I get O.L.
If I've read things right, that diode is OK.
I put my meter on diode ohms test and touched the two pads that the diode usually sits on and I get a beep; meaning the two pads are connected somewhere.
Do you still think I need to remove the heatsink and mosfets ? If so could you verify which one exactly.
Hi,
I cannot answer your latest questions but i have the exactly same issue here with this y-main. Found one IC (U5406) shorted on the upper y-buffer. After unsoldering the IC i connected both buffers and the y-main with the rest and fired up the set (btw: Philips 42PF5331/10 - chassis LC4.41E AA) expecting the tv to show up a -distorted- picture. Screen totally dark with green led on front continously green (no blink). Following the repair tips from freakafter8 i measured R5090/5028 and D5009/5018 with component tester in my scope. All o.k. except D5018 which measured shorted (6 ohms with dmm in both directions). Unsolderd D5018: o.K.. Tested mosfets underneath both heatsinks: all good, no shorts.
Regarding D5028 i agree with you, there must be a connection between the two pads but it´s hard to determine where it comes from. This board seems to have at least 4 layers.
@freakafter8: is the reading of 6 ohms normal or is this a hint to a faulty component in this area? What else can we check?
@SevillianSTS: maybe we can compare some of our measurements just to rule out we are locking in the wrong direction?
Wolf
Hi,
pretty good question! I´ve read and learned alot from reading different posts in this excellent forum. I take my hat off to all the plasma and lcd gurus here! Great job and thanks!
I myself have abt 30 years of experience with crt tv´s, now getting familiar with lcd´s, but plasmas are still a book of seven seals to me. This one stood in my garage for abt 3 years, not knowing if it is worth the time to look for. Anyway, with the help of this forum i gave it a try and let´s see what happens.
While you are waiting for the mosfets maybe you can prepare the heatsinks for remounting. Same here, the thermal compound is as hard as a stone, no way to get it off with alcohol or something like that. I used a sharp scalpel to scratch it off. Worked fine for me but be careful not to make any deep scratches into the surface of the heatsinks. Did the same with the residue on the mosfets.
Did you encounter any probs with your buffer boards? I could locate one defective driver ic on the upper y-buffer board after removing those little heatsinks on them. The defective one had a little hole on its surface and after removing it from the pcb the resistance between supply rail and ground measured good.
Hi,
pretty good question! I´ve read and learned alot from reading different posts in this excellent forum. I take my hat off to all the plasma and lcd gurus here! Great job and thanks!
I myself have abt 30 years of experience with crt tv´s, now getting familiar with lcd´s, but plasmas are still a book of seven seals to me. This one stood in my garage for abt 3 years, not knowing if it is worth the time to look for. Anyway, with the help of this forum i gave it a try and let´s see what happens.
While you are waiting for the mosfets maybe you can prepare the heatsinks for remounting. Same here, the thermal compound is as hard as a stone, no way to get it off with alcohol or something like that. I used a sharp scalpel to scratch it off. Worked fine for me but be careful not to make any deep scratches into the surface of the heatsinks. Did the same with the residue on the mosfets.
Did you encounter any probs with your buffer boards? I could locate one defective driver ic on the upper y-buffer board after removing those little heatsinks on them. The defective one had a little hole on its surface and after removing it from the pcb the resistance between supply rail and ground measured good.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
Once I remove this 3rd, bad mosfet, can I plug the board in to see if it will "not" trip the tv into standby, or is that going to harm something else with out the mosfets attached ?
It's not a good idea to run the board without certain parts unless you're sure no damage will occur.
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Got my 3 new mosfets installed. Didn't do too bad getting them straight and flat.
Plugged the board into the TV with no buffers.
It still clicks on, then off and the green LED flashes.
I don't appear to have any shorts across either of the 2 black connectors. I checked the few hot pins vs all the ground pins on each connector.
I did notice that my new mosfets measure O.L. from the Gate to Source and from Gate to Drain. The existing mosfets measured about 14M ohms Gate to Drain and 2-5M ohms from Gate to Source.
The New and Existing mosfets all measured about 6.37M ohms Drain to Source. None of them make the meter beep though when on diode check mode for ohms.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
OK, yes, that makes sense, it is for the control/logic board.
Since the voltages disappear if that is connected, I expect you still have a fault on your Y-main.
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For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
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