LG 50pc1dr - help repairing/diagnosing problem...

[tom66]

Re: LG 50pc1dr - help repairing/diagnosing problem...

Yep... bulged caps everywhere. It looks like there are maybe 2 or 3 different sized caps that are bad.

Did LG just use substandard quality or is this just what happens...

Really what I am asking is... should I replace all the caps or just the ones that are popped?

There are somthing like 21 caps on the board and maybe 8 or so that look bad.
Do I replace the 8 or all of them?

I'm betting you've got Samwha WB or XC capacitors. These were a bad batch and combined with cost cutting led to early failures. I've got about 13 Samwha WB and 2 Samwha XC in my bag of bad caps. Do you remember the stories of clicking Samsungs? They were WB and XC failures too.

[bobster99]

Re: LG 50pc1dr - help repairing/diagnosing problem...

Has the quality improved or should I stay away from one brand or another?

[tom66]

Re: LG 50pc1dr - help repairing/diagnosing problem...

Has the quality improved or should I stay away from one brand or another?

Stay away from Samwha - I still don't trust them. Go for Chemi-Con, Nichicon, Panasonic or Rubycon.

[bobster99]

Re: LG 50pc1dr - help repairing/diagnosing problem...

Ok, I got the TV fixed, well most of the way. I did consider replacing the caps myself but after reviewing the instructions and some of the horror stories on the web I decided to sub it out.

I did find a local guy off eBay but when he didn't respond for 3 days I picked C***** TV out of Texas. I have about $100 between shipping and all into the repair.

The TV works fine now... well sort of.

Randomly the TV screen would go pink and the Menu would get scrambled. Restarting the TV seemed to fix this and when I opened up the back of the TV I found a connector to one of the motherboards was slightly disconnected. I can only hope that will solve the problem with the weird screens and the random pink screen.

The other problem is that since the TV is in my bedroom I found out the hard way that randomly around 3:00 am the TV started making a buzzing noise that only went away soon as I pulled th plug.

This wasn't a big surprise, the TV has had this problem since I got it but it always seemed to go away after the TV was powered up for a few minutes so the 3 AM noise was a bit of a surprise.

Pulling the TV apart I found out that the hard drive in the TV was bad and once I removed it the TV stopped making the noise. I grabbed a SATA drive out of an old computer and now the noise is gone and the built-in DVR seems to work. Woo Hoo..

The OEM Hard Drive is a 160GB SATA drive and if it still works in a few weeks I will find a larger hard drive (all i had sitting around was a 80GB drive).

So the TV is back working right... well sort of, I had to manually program or in this case, un-program all of the channels I don't get. That maybe a problem with Comcast or the cable card but it was nothing but a bit of a pain to delete all the rest of the channels.

The other problem is that for some reason the menu button stops working and the on-screen display isn't there. My only tought is that there is may be a connection to something overheating but that is only a guess.

If anyone has any suggestions as to the menu problem or the cable card problem, please let me know.

Bob

[basros]

Re: LG 50pc1dr - help repairing/diagnosing problem...

hello
I have an LG50PC1DR

[Alastair E]

Re: LG 50pc1dr - help repairing/diagnosing problem...

hello
I have an LG50PC1DR

You have all our sympathies!

[dnai@sbcglobal.net]

Re: LG 50pc1dr - help repairing/diagnosing problem...

I am in the process of repairing one of these sets, which had bad caps initially. However, replacing them doesn't seem to have fixed it. I have a theory that the bad caps have killed the main board in some way, so I'm in the process of replacing those parts.

tom, i got a cheap deal on a 50pc1dra-ua that had been molested and missing many case screws and who knows what else. it had bad caps and i ordered the repair kit and the project went on the back burner due to a move over the summer. i have time now and dove back in but decided to check ebay one last time for a cheap power supply as opposed to replacing the caps myself with my rudimentary irons and was blessed with a guaranteed working supply for 35 + free shipping(yeeahh). the supply arrived and i was relieved to see that it had the upgraded caps already in it. my scenario is the same as the OP, where i disconnect the one cable going to the video board and i can get the tv to stay on but with no picture. my vs readings are less than 1v and am under the same assumption as you that the main board isn't sending the signal to kick the power supply on. do you remeber what the culprit was on your set? any guidance will be appreciated.