Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

[kevin!]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

An eMacs PSU... Yup, those are as solid as a PSU can get: Japanese caps, nice fan, good quality parts throughout, and excellent soldering. But what I like the best: that blue "Pb" sticker, indicating leaded solder and components.
This was definitely made before the era of RoHS crap and of course would last a very long time.

I also like the automatic line voltage switch. This is a feature I've only seen before on certain Astec PSUs. On that note, Astec PSUs are of similar quality.

In that detail of the lead solders I had not noticed, you're right, those welds will never break. This PSU is for life .
I have an AT case to mount a computer for classic games based on a Pentium MMX, and I will use this great PSU.
If I am honest, I did not know the emacs (Zippy) brand, I was very surprised with its construction quality, and I am right, it is at Astec level.

[momaka]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Hi Guys Im from Croatia hobby player And Im burned my power supply.. im looking for schematic ... because my restors is burned in less then one second..
board is KY-2102A REV:1.3
If you can help me with schematic.. pleas.. i need to know values.

I doubt you will find a schematic for this particular power supply anywhere on the internet. However, there are several popular "generic" schematics floating around for the old crappy half-bridge PSUs.

Looking at your pictures, I want to say that power supply really is NOT worth repairing (or only for fun/learning.)

But if you really are deadset on repairing this, I'd suggest starting a new thread and posting all relevant pictures and information there. From what I can see here based on these pictures, that burned resistors appears to be part of your 5VSB circuit. So do this: plug in the power supply and see what voltage you get between the purple (5VSB wire) and ground (any black wire.) Should get 5V. If not, you have to troubleshoot that 5VSB circuit before anything else in the PSU will work. Speaking of which, that 5VSB circuit appears to be a 2-transistor design, and those are known to go in a puff of smoke when something goes bad, like the electrolytic caps on the output or the "critical" small startup cap (if this PSU has one.)

I bring new photos of another PSU, this time it's from an AT, this is one of the best AT psu I have, it came from an ADLink industrial computer. according to UL, manufactured by ZIPPY TECHNOLOGY CORP.

An eMacs PSU... Yup, those are as solid as a PSU can get: Japanese caps, nice fan, good quality parts throughout, and excellent soldering. But what I like the best: that blue "Pb" sticker, indicating leaded solder and components.
This was definitely made before the era of RoHS crap and of course would last a very long time.

I also like the automatic line voltage switch. This is a feature I've only seen before on certain Astec PSUs. On that note, Astec PSUs are of similar quality.

Here it is, a FSP Bluestorm II 500W I got for $3. Had bulging Capxons in the secondary and 5vsb, althpugh the main cap (420uF 400V) is fine.

Very nice deal for $3!!
Should be a solid PSU with the new caps now.
Only thing I suggest doing is adding a 2 to 4 uF polypropylene 450V or 630V in parallel with that main CapXon cap. This PP cap will soak up all of the high-frequency crap so that the CrapXon won't have to. Also, in the event that the CapXon primary cap does go bad (it more than likely will eventually, due to APFC), the PP cap should still present enough capacitance to prevent the primary side from blowing up. Otherwise, a blown open primary cap often leads to blown APFC components and sometimes even other ICs behind the APFC.

[Dan81]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

I haven't seen any GLN/GLY low wattage here. Maybe a 350W PNF about 4-5 years ago but the store that had it has long since closed down.

Anyways, don't mind the primary cap looking like that. I was suspecting it was bulging when in fact it was the black plastic sheet over it that made it look that way, and I couldn't get it back there.

Great to hear that the later units (late 2007 onwards) are more reliable. Guess that doing the recap got me safe for another 10-20 years from now on? It's gonna power a Q9400 w/ 4GB DDR3 (planning for either 8 or 16GBs tho) and possibly a R9 270x in the future.

[Stefan Payne]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

And its a rather late part, end of 2007, so it should be fine and not have the "Material Issue". That's something that happened with this plattform in the 2005/2006 time frame.
And I doubt there are any left. At least lower wattage ones.

[Dan81]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Okay, might as well post my FSP.


Here it is, a FSP Bluestorm II 500W I got for $3. Had bulging Capxons in the secondary and 5vsb, althpugh the main cap (420uF 400V) is fine.

Replaced most caps with what I had on my hand, as well as a few caps from a dead Delta.

[kevin!]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

I bring new photos of another PSU, this time it's from an AT, this is one of the best AT psu I have, it came from an ADLink industrial computer. according to UL, manufactured by ZIPPY TECHNOLOGY CORP.
Even the fan is of quality, this unit never ceases to amaze me.
The PSU has more than 50,000h, and still works (according to the smart parameters of the HDD that came from the same computer where the PSU comes from)

[rigmo]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

This is my problem

[rigmo]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Hi Guys Im from Croatia hobby player And Im burned my power supply.. im looking for schematic ... because my restors is burned in less then one second..
board is KY-2102A REV:1.3
If you can help me with schematic.. pleas.. i need to know values.
Im apologies for my bad english ..
thank you in advance
best regards

[kevin!]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Very interesting PSU, indeed.
Probably uses some kind of resonant LC topology, thus allowing it to have a very small transformer. Some PS3 PSUs were done that way, IIRC. Synchronous rectification and DC-DC converters too, if I had to guess on this one. Delta usually really knows what they are doing, so I won't question its label at all.


Definitely a good idea. Ltec are quite crap. Though Delta does know how to design PSUs to make them last in there for a decent amount of time. Still, sooner or later, they will go. So good idea to change them, as you mentioned.

Thanks Momaka for the data, here I learn new things hehe.
From this source I believe what the label says, it is feeding an i7 2600, an nvidia gtx 760 4GB, several fans, an ssd, and an HDD, and the 80 silver certificate, I also consider it legitimate, the pcb that it has for the PFC circuit is awesome.
Well, I will do that, when I can buy new capacitors and replace them.

[momaka]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Here show you a PSU Dell alienware aurora r3, specifically a Newton Power/Delta electronics n875ef-00
The source carries an ADDA fan.
I am surprised by its design, it has hardly any transformer, does anyone know how this type of PSU works? It amazes me how it is built, I have never seen anything to it.

Very interesting PSU, indeed.
Probably uses some kind of resonant LC topology, thus allowing it to have a very small transformer. Some PS3 PSUs were done that way, IIRC. Synchronous rectification and DC-DC converters too, if I had to guess on this one. Delta usually really knows what they are doing, so I won't question its label at all.

There are LTEC capacitors, but they have 30,000h, they have not given problems, but surely change the capacitors for quality ones.

Definitely a good idea. Ltec are quite crap. Though Delta does know how to design PSUs to make them last in there for a decent amount of time. Still, sooner or later, they will go. So good idea to change them, as you mentioned.

[kevin!]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Here show you a PSU Dell alienware aurora r3, specifically a Newton Power/Delta electronics n875ef-00
The source carries an ADDA fan.
I am surprised by its design, it has hardly any transformer, does anyone know how this type of PSU works? It amazes me how it is built, I have never seen anything to it.
There are LTEC capacitors, but they have 30,000h, they have not given problems, but surely change the capacitors for quality ones.

[ae7oo]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Just an update. I've been using that supply as my master supply, this means that I'll take an out, lets say 5V and then use that as an input for when I'm doing linear reg work for audio or precision analog work. Or better yet, I used the 12V as an input to a buck converter(3V and 6 amps) that supplies current to a candle/cigarette(yes, I smoke, so??)/whatever lighter.
I did ramp up voltage slowly(I'm got an old true sine inverter that my son had bought broken(he thought he a use for the big caps, but lucky me, he never did) and turned into a variable AC voltage, I power this with one of my ham power supplies(13.8V at up to 50amps). It lets me go from 15V at 60Hz to over 240V at 50Hz, with enough power that, at least for testing, I can power just about anything(Ok, I will admit that when I plugged a fridge in(for testing), every damn fan through out the system kick on as one and went to full speed, I pulled that plug real quick).

I did replace about 6 caps on the output. I thought the the ESR was a little high(not that I blame them, I know for a fact it has over 6 years at 24/7/365 on it). That is over 50,000 hours, so I would say they have lived up to mfg specs...

AE7OO, aka GB

[PeteS in CA]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Going by date codes on parts, that was built in July or August of 2003. All that heavy metal probably helped with its longevity.

That Fairchild ML4800 was one of the very first PFC controller ICs, originally designed and manufactured by MicroLinear (probably before Unitrode's UC3852), starting IIRC in the late 1980s.

[ae7oo]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Ok, I had to take them from my phone so they are not the worlds best. That computer had sat out in the shed(Where I keep random machines running) for about a year and the PS case was starting to rust(I guess that swamp cooler was just too much) so I'm going to re-case it, move the fan control board over, the fans everything else. I'm going to make that into a bench power supply using a plug in board.

Please note, I had bought that system from ASU salvage years ago and used it as a FreeBSD server until I moved that system over to a AMD quad about 3 months ago. It ran 24/7 with no problems. There is not a bulge in sight... I'm going to guess that the two fans helped just a little bit.
GB

[Stefan Payne]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

You have more pics on the PSU, less detail pics, more overhead, where you see the whole beauty of that unit?

[ae7oo]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Ablecom SP-450RP
NOTE: This has almost the same part number as a prior entry. This is a YM-1062PK 450W compared to a YM-1062A 420W. A couple of changes include reducing 5V output to 26A vice 40A and increasing 12V output to 20A from 15A. Combined +5V and +3.3V max power reduced to 160W from 220W. This one also has dual fans, led and reset button.

This came out of an OLD dual Xeon system that was in a SuperMicro tower case.

First off the specs
+3.3V 30A
+5V 26A
+12V 30A
-12V 1A
-5V 0.5A
+5Vsb 2A
+3.3V and +5V max combined 160W
+3.3V, +5V and +12V max combined 450W

First take a look at plugt and plugb, besides the common mode choke that is built in, there is another choke on the bottom along with a CLC PI filter.

Then a Hitachi HP3 270uF 450V along with active PFC provide by a Fairchild ML4800CP.
Then we have a full house for input filtering. MOV, Thermister, Xcap, Ycap, 2 big chokes with a HUGE blue cap in the middle. The bridge rectifier has a heat sink so I can't see the model. There are no less than 6 semiconductors attached to the input heat sink.
Next up we have xfm01 and xfm02 which are two of the transformers. There are also 3 optocouplers.

On the output side it looks like another 6+ semiconductors attached to heat sinks. Look at output 1 and 2 for coils and caps. Output 3 is showing a little bit of the side board. The one regulator I can see is a 7912 for the -12V rail.
As far as output caps go, I can see 2 4700uF 10V, 2 3300uF 16V, 2 470uF 16V, 1 330uF 16V and 2 other caps the same size as the 4700uF 10V.
There is also small board attached to back that controls the 2 fans via temperature, led, reset button and other stuff I can't figure out.

Workman ship is high grade overall.

[PeteS in CA]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

I think I saw a late 2004 date code (043#), so it's nearly 15 years old. The 2A 5VSB is a little low for that era, perhaps. OTOH, the 12V current is pretty hefty. Love the heavy metal , and a fan that isn't WhoIsThat?! brand.

[momaka]

FSP Fortron/Source FSP400-60PFN REV:1 - recap info

And now for some recap info and pictures on the FSP400-60PFN PSU above…

Basically, I did a full recap, despite only the 5VSB caps being bad. To my surprise, those large 6800 uF CapXon KM units were all still in spec. But one or two of them had started to drift towards the high-side of their capacity spec (i.e. close to +20%). This means the capacitors are probably starting to become (electrically) leaky. So again, rather than taking a chance with them, I did a full recap. After all, I already needed to purchase 6800 uF caps of the same size for the Sparkle PSU. Adding a few more to the cart just made sense (actually, I got a fairly decent discount, as I ordered 10 of them.)

Anyways, here is a picture of the finished recap:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556412020
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556412020
It's mostly a forest of Chemicons (KY and KYB series) in there, mixed with a few Nichicon caps. I also ended up recapping the primary-side daughter board and most of the secondary-side daughterboard (some caps just couldn't be removed without desoldering the entire daughterboard, so I skipped a few really small ones.)
You can also see in the second picture above that I soldered a short piece of 14 AWG copper wire to a Zener diode. This was actually the component behind the darkened PCB near transistor SQ3 on the primary-side daughterboard. Ugly looks aside, that should help keep it just a tiny bit cooler, I think.

After all of these procedures, of course, I tested the PSU on the same PC setup as the Sparkle PSU: my trusty ECS P4VXASD2+ motherboard that delivers power for its 2.66 GHz Pentium 4 CPU from the 5V rail (a good 90W load on the 5V rail alone.) The FSP400-60PFN PSU had no problems whatsoever powering that PC, an all voltage levels were in spec (note: I only checked these with a multimeter and didn't measure noise + ripple.) Unsurprisingly, the FSP400-60PFN also had no problems powering that PC. I forgot to write down the values of the voltages, but the 5V rail was pretty much dead-on 5V and didn't move much regardless of whether the CPU load was high or low.

As for some details about the recap… here is a full list of the electrolytic capacitors found in this PSU (minus the big input-side primaries):

* 3.3V rail:
** [capacitor C34]: CapXon KM, 10V, 6800 uF, 12.5 x 35 mm
** [capacitor C35]: Teapo SC, 10V, 3300 uF, 12.5 x 25 mm

* 5V rail [capacitors C29 & C30]: CapXon KM, 10V, 6800 uF, 12.5 x 35 mm

* 12V rail [capacitors C23 & C24]: 2x Teapo SD, 16V, 2200 uF, 10 x 20 mm

* 5VSB rail [capacitors C37 and C38]: 2x Teapo SC, 10V, 1000 uF, 8 x 15 mm

* -12V rail…
** [capacitor C27]: OST RLG, 35V, 470 uF, 10 x 20 mm (before 7912 regulator)
** [capacitor C28]: Teapo SEK, 16V, 100 uF, 5 x 11 mm (after 7912 regulator)

* -5V rail [capacitor C26]: Teapo SEK, 50V, 10 uF (after 7905 regulator)

* PWM daughterboard:
** [capacitor SC18]: OST RLG, 50V, 100 uF, 8 x 13 mm
** [capacitor SC11]: Teapo SEK, 35V, 33 uF, 5 x 11 mm

* Secondary-side daughterboard:
** [capacitor C15]: Teapo SC, 50V, 1 uF, 5 x 11 mm
** [capacitor C16]: Jamicon TK, 25V, 47 uF, 5 x 11 mm
** 3x Teapo SS, 50V, 1 uF, 4.5 x 8 mm
** 1x Teapo SC, 50V, 1 uF, 5 x 11 mm
** 1x Teapo SS, 35V, 10 uF, 5 x 5 mm
** 1x 50V, 4.7 uF, 5 x 11 mm
** 1x 50V, 10 uF, 5 x 11 mm

And the capacitors I used were as follows:
3.3V rail: United Chemicon KYB, same voltage and capacitance for both caps (but ended up with a 10 mm diameter capacitor for the 3300 uF Teapo SC.)
5 rail: United Chemicon KYB, same voltage and capacitance for both caps.
12 rail: United Chemicon KYB, same voltage and capacitance for both caps.
5VSB rail: Nichicon HE, 6.3V, same capacitance for both caps.
-12V rail: Rubycon YXJ, 25V, 1000 uF for the OST RLG and Rubycon YXA for the Teapo SEK (same voltage and capacitance).
-5V rail: Rubycon YXA, 16V, 100 uF, 5 x 11 mm.
Capacitor SC18: Nichicon PW, same voltage and capacitance.
Capacitor SC11: Rubycon YXJ, same voltage and capacitance.
All the other small caps: a combination of Nichicon PW and Rubycon YXJ, same voltage and capacity for each.

I didn't make a picture of how the rails are connected this time. But hopefully the capacitor marks should give a clue to whoever might be trying to recap this PSU. If not, just ask. That's all for this PSU recap.

[momaka]

FSP Fortron/Source FSP400-60PFN REV:1

A while back I posted about a Sparkle Power FPS400-60GN PSU that I got for recapping for someone. This is the second PSU that the same owner gave me to fix: an FSP Fortron/Source FSP400-60PFN
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556410929
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556410929
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556410929
It's another old 5V-heavy unit, as evident by that 40-Amp –rated 5V rail and 235W combined power for the 3.3V and 5V rails. Output connectors suggest the same, too, as the unit has a 20-pin ATX and 3.3V AUX connectors. Unlike the Sparkle unit, though, this one also has one or two SATA connectors. As for the wires themselves, main connector has 16 AWG for 3.3V, 5V, and ground. Rest is all 18 AWG. Also note the case has a “W/ Noise Killer” sticker, so this unit should have a fan controller. But let's open it up and see:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556410929
Uhm… we can't see much there, can we? This PSU is so packed that you can hardly tell anything about it after removing its top cover. All I see is two very big heatsinks… which is not a bad sign, I suppose.

Perhaps looking from the sides will offer more insight…
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556410929
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556410929
-Nope! It's just as packed on the sides. Makes one wonder how air even moves through it. We do see one big primary cap though.

In any case, this PSU wasn't functioning at all when I got it (it made only slight screeching and appeared completely dead otherwise), so I had to take it apart to find the problem anyways. After battling with it for more than a few minutes, I finally managed to take the PCB out of the case:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556410929
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556410929
OK, now we can see some features. Going by the single 450V, 330 uF Hitachi HP3 main cap, I'm pretty sure this is an active PFC (APFC) PSU. The lack of a voltage switch and presence of a “FULL RANGE” sticker on that first picture of the case above should have been a good hint too, of course. We can also see a total of three inductors on the secondary side: one big, one medium, and one small, revealing that this is a group-regulated PSU (heh, what else would it be from that time period? ) with a mag-amp –regulated 3.3V rail. The output caps are all Teapo and CapXon. What are the chances some of them are bad, you think?

On that note, I did find the problem. To get to it, however, I had to desolder the secondary heatsink. Given the mass on those heatsinks, I didn't think it was going to be easy to do. Fortunately, the PCB was only a simple single-layer fiberglass board, so desoldering the secondary rectifiers and pulling the HS out wasn't hard. Speaking of which, here is a shot of the soldering before I had to dig in it:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556410929
MEH. It's not looking very nice… but not terrible either. It only had a few leads that were slightly-longer than necessary. Overall, it's acceptable. The two daughterboards looked better, though:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556411005
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556411005
Nice and shiny with leaded solder. Only thing that I didn't like too much on the PWM+APFC control board was the slight heating in one area near transistor SQ3… and the tan organic glue that darkens and goes conductive eventually, of course. It wasn't excessively over-applied, though, so I was able to clean a good chuck of where it could cause problems (but by no means was I able to remove all of it.) Also, speaking of the fan controller earlier, the secondary-side daughterboard contains the circuit for it. Worth noting here is that the fan driver is only a TO-92 NPN transistor (S8050 / H8050). Because of this and the fan's power rating (0.22 Amps), the transistor was running a little hotter than I'd like to see. I'll tell you how I alleviated that a little later below.

Anyways, like I said, desoldering the secondary heatsink didn't turn out to be that hard at all – managed to do it with my 40W Radio Shack bulb desoldering iron. Here are the parts attached to the secondary heatsink:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556411005
From left to right, we have: MBR4045PT (40-Amp rectifier for the 3.3V rail), E83-004 (30-Amp for 5V rail), BYV32E200 (20-Amp, 200V ultrafast rectifier for 12V), and MBR760 (7.5-Amp Schottky for 5VSB). Overall, this is good arrangement. However, I would have liked to see a stronger rectifier for the 5V rail, as a 30-Amp part on a forward-converter topology will likely max-out near 22-25 Amps. This is quite far from the 40 Amp rating promised on the label and also quite a change from the Sparkle FPS400-60GN, which uses a single 60-Amp part for the 5V rail *and* is a half-bridge design (which means one could theoretically pull the full 60 Amps from it.)

With the secondary heatsink out of the way, now we can see the output side… and also the problem that made this PSU appear “dead”.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556411005
Indeed we have bad caps, as I suspected above. And they are on the 5VSB output, which goes inline with the symptoms: screeching PSU and no 5VSB rail. That's all it took to bring an otherwise decent PSU down. On that picture above, you can also see how packed the secondary side is. So in their defense, those caps probably didn't get much ventilation. Nevertheless, even if they did, I'm still pretty sure they would have failed anyways. It's Teapo and CapXon, after all! Is anything else to be expected of them?

Also, in case it's not clear from the pictures above (and it isn't, I can see) – the output caps for the 3.3V and 5V rails are pretty hefty: 2x 6800 uF (CapXon KM) units for the 5V rail and 6800 uF (CapXon KM) + 3300 uF (Teapo SC) for the 3.3V rail. Meanwhile, the 12V rail gets *only* two 16V and 2200 uF caps (those blue Teapo SD.) That's plenty of filtering capacity if you ask me.

Finally a shot of the fan label:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1556411005
It's just a Nidec Beta SL D08T-12PU (2 ball bearing) fan – good stuff. Since this one was on a fan controller, its bearings were still OK (unlike the one in the Sparkle FPS400-60GN, which had failing/loose bearings and was very loud.) I fixed the Sparkle PSU by using the fan from this FPS PSU (and I connected it straight to 7V to reduce noise, bearing wear, and dust accumulation). Meanwhile, this FSP PSU received a brand new San Ace 9A0812S402 fan, rated for 2.16 Watts @ 12V (that is, 0.18 Amps). The reason I made this change was to reduce the power dissipated by the fan driving transistor (that S8050 NPN BJT I mentioned above), as otherwise it was getting quite hot with the original 0.22 Amp Nidec fan. Of course, I did this change only after I looked into the datasheet for the San Ace fan above and verified that the fan would have similar airflow specs as the Nidec fan at the voltage that the fan controller was providing.

Anyways, that's all for this Fortron PSU. Below is a summary of the parts in it.

Primary Side
EMI/RFI filtering: 3x 1 uF + 1x 0.47 uF X2-class caps, 2x 3.3 nF Y2-class caps, 1x CM choke + 2x SM chokes
Protection: T8A fuse and SCK 085 NTC inrush thermistor
GBU805 bridge rectifier
Primary bulk filter cap: Hitachi HP3, 450V, 330 uF, 30 x 45 mm (ø x h)
APFC: 2x 11N60 MOSFETs + HFA15T60 diode
Main PS: 2x 11N60 MOSFETs, 2-transistor forward design (2TF)
Main PS Snubber: 1.5 Amp diode + (190 kOhm 2W resistor || 0.47 nF ceramic cap)
Transformers: 41 mm core (main), 19 mm core (5VSB)

ICs
FAN4803 (APFC + main PS PWM, primary side daughterboard)
some off-line switch IC for 5VSB
3x ET1109 optocouplers
Welltrend WT7510 (supervisor, secondary side daughterboard)

Secondary Side
5V Rail:
* 1x E83-004 (30-Amp, 45V, TO-3P) rectifier
* 2x CapXon KM, 10V, 6800 uF, 12.5 x 35 mm (capacitors C29 and C30)
* 6 mm core, 5-turn, 14 AWG(?) PI coil between caps
* 33-Ohm, 2-Watt resistor for minimum load (over ¾ Watt of power wasted as heat! )

12V Rail:
* 1x BYV32E200 (20-Amp, 200V ultrafast, TO-220) rectifier
* 2x Teapo SD, 16V, 2200 uF, 10 x 20 mm (capacitors C23 and C24)
* 6 mm core, 5-turn, 16 AWG(?) PI coil between caps
* 150-Ohm, 1W minimum load resistor connected to 5V rail

3.3V Rail:
* 1x MBR4045PT (40-Amp, 45V, TO-247) rectifier
* 1x CapXon KM, 10V, 6800 uF, 12.5 x 35 mm (capacitors C34)
* 1x Teapo SC, 10V, 3300 uF, 12.5 x 25 mm (capacitors C35)
* 6 mm core, 5-turn, 14 AWG(?) PI coil between caps
* 1-KOhm, 1-Watt (?) minimum load resistor

-12V Rail:
* 2x UF303 (3-Amp, 300V) diodes feeding into 7912 regulator
* 1x OST RLG, 35V, 470 uF, 10 x 20 mm (C27, before 7912 regulator)
* 1x Teapo SEK, 16V, 100 uF (C28, after 7912 regulator)

-5V Rail:
* no rectifier – uses a 7905 regulator with the -12V rail being the input
* 1x Teapo SEK, 50V, 10 uF (C26, after 7905 regulator)

5VSB Rail:
* 1x MBR760 (7.5-Amp, 60V Schottky, TO-220AC) rectifier
* 2x Teapo SC, 10V, 1000 uF, 8 x 15 mm (capacitors C37 and C38)
* 3-4 mm core, 12-turn PI coil between caps

[Dan81]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

In my case (ha, the pun!) a HiPro 250W in a JNC/Meico PSU:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...0&postcount=80

I also have another HiPro board like that in a RaidMax RX-380K shell/case. Not sure if I posted here or not, though. Either way, the original PSU bord in that RaidMax was from an extremely gutless Sun Pro KY-480ATX PSU.

I think I know that PCB, have a bunch of them through my HUGE PSU stash. Some come with good heatsinks though.

By the way, the next case swap is going to be a "Techsolo" TP-450. Maybe I can sneak in a Delta DPS-400WB A? Wonder if it's standard ATX though as it's a Fujitsu-Siemens OEM PSU and the colors are different than standard ATX.