Here is a Magna 300W ATX PSU, with plenty of bloated JEE and other caps:
Primaries are HEC 330uf 200V (will change these when I get some other caps)
Now I said on the other thread about the electronic clock kit I was waiting on some caps off my dad. Well here they are in action! and before I get roasted for bad repair work or it's dangerous etc, this is just a "Will it work?" project, using what I now have, which is Jamicon 85C caps, Fake Nichicons and Fake Panasonic FR caps!
At least the values are a lot larger.
The 470uf 16 cap is actually that value, I just wrote it in red underneath by mistake.
Also the cap at the bottom right of the labeled image isn't "0v", it's "10v"
The cap replacements are as follows:
C10 (EMPTY) -> 2200uf 10V Fake Panny
1000uf 10v UNITE -> 2200uf 10v fake Panny
1000uf 10v UNITE -> 3300uf 16v fake Nichicon sitting off the board about 5mm!!!
1000uf 16v JEE (bloated) -> 3300uf 16v fake Nichicon sitting off the board about 10mm!!!!!!
1000uf 10v UNITE -> 2200uf 10v fake Panny
470uf 16V UNITE -> 470uf 25V Jamicon 85C (Yeah, I know, it's 85C and General Purpose!) Sitting off the board about 3mm
330uf 10V UNITE -> 2200uf 10v fake Panny
470uf 10v UNITE -> Jamicon 470uf 25V Jamicon 85C (Yeah, I know, it's 85C and General Purpose!)
1000uf 16V JEE (bloated, top right) -> 3300uf 16V fake Nichicon sticking off the board about 8mm!!!!!!!
and finally...
the worst offender of my recap....
47uf 50V cap (bloated out the bottom) replaced with...
Two Jamicon 100uf 25V in series for a combined 50uf 50V and probably way too much resistance!!!
Again, this is NOT a lesson in how to recap a power supply.I know full well what I've done is ridiculous. This is more a "I've got this stuff, will it work?" Before I did this, the volts would be all over the place, as in, my cheap £2 multimeter would show the voltages actually moving on the display up and down as it ran (with a dead HDD for some load)

Now it's stable.
So this is probably "How to get yourself Killed" but I thought it amusing to share nonetheless.
For some info
Transistors
CET 4.3B M2 - CEF02N6
D13007K (two) these are on the left hand side of the PSU where the primaries are.
On the other side...
LT 348STPR1020CT
LT 402 SBL2040CT
Last one is a mission to make out...CEPT703NL... think it also says 431YM
I';ve got a 35 size transformer here... Maybe I should see if i can solder it in and see if it goes POP?
Currently respraying the case in white with some no-name car gloss paint and might stick some LED's in the fan for fun.
You should take bets on when one of my relatives will turn up on the form and say "Sorry, Rulycat will no longer post as he has been killed"
Primaries are HEC 330uf 200V (will change these when I get some other caps)
Now I said on the other thread about the electronic clock kit I was waiting on some caps off my dad. Well here they are in action! and before I get roasted for bad repair work or it's dangerous etc, this is just a "Will it work?" project, using what I now have, which is Jamicon 85C caps, Fake Nichicons and Fake Panasonic FR caps!
At least the values are a lot larger.
The 470uf 16 cap is actually that value, I just wrote it in red underneath by mistake.
Also the cap at the bottom right of the labeled image isn't "0v", it's "10v"

The cap replacements are as follows:
C10 (EMPTY) -> 2200uf 10V Fake Panny
1000uf 10v UNITE -> 2200uf 10v fake Panny
1000uf 10v UNITE -> 3300uf 16v fake Nichicon sitting off the board about 5mm!!!
1000uf 16v JEE (bloated) -> 3300uf 16v fake Nichicon sitting off the board about 10mm!!!!!!
1000uf 10v UNITE -> 2200uf 10v fake Panny
470uf 16V UNITE -> 470uf 25V Jamicon 85C (Yeah, I know, it's 85C and General Purpose!) Sitting off the board about 3mm
330uf 10V UNITE -> 2200uf 10v fake Panny
470uf 10v UNITE -> Jamicon 470uf 25V Jamicon 85C (Yeah, I know, it's 85C and General Purpose!)
1000uf 16V JEE (bloated, top right) -> 3300uf 16V fake Nichicon sticking off the board about 8mm!!!!!!!
and finally...
the worst offender of my recap....
47uf 50V cap (bloated out the bottom) replaced with...
Two Jamicon 100uf 25V in series for a combined 50uf 50V and probably way too much resistance!!!
Again, this is NOT a lesson in how to recap a power supply.I know full well what I've done is ridiculous. This is more a "I've got this stuff, will it work?" Before I did this, the volts would be all over the place, as in, my cheap £2 multimeter would show the voltages actually moving on the display up and down as it ran (with a dead HDD for some load)

Now it's stable.
So this is probably "How to get yourself Killed" but I thought it amusing to share nonetheless.

For some info
Transistors
CET 4.3B M2 - CEF02N6
D13007K (two) these are on the left hand side of the PSU where the primaries are.
On the other side...
LT 348STPR1020CT
LT 402 SBL2040CT
Last one is a mission to make out...CEPT703NL... think it also says 431YM
I';ve got a 35 size transformer here... Maybe I should see if i can solder it in and see if it goes POP?

Currently respraying the case in white with some no-name car gloss paint and might stick some LED's in the fan for fun.
You should take bets on when one of my relatives will turn up on the form and say "Sorry, Rulycat will no longer post as he has been killed"

Comment