CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

[gintanto]

The VIPER chip has thermal shutdown protection so shouldn't burn itself up

When I powered mine up after being unplugged for several years (with brand new batteries), I immediately heard a hiss and then the magic smoke came out. The magic smoke came from my Viper22a chip, which completely obliterated the markings, and I didn't even know what it was til I got here :-) Both of my 200V caps are swollen. All the other caps look ok. In short, I think there are probably multiple failure modes for this part, especially depending which caps died.

I just placed my Digi-Key order, and will update when I get the parts installed.

[braincell38]

If your battery isn't charging, usually you can just replace the small cap C1 22uF 50V next to the VIPER22 chip. The VIPER chip has thermal shutdown protection so shouldn't burn itself up. I tested C2 and C3 on my mine and they were fine.

You may notice a very high pitch sound from your UPS if C1 is bad.

[ehsjr]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

I just wanted to add that I had the same problem with my CyberPower 1350AVR and replacing C1 fixed it.

What started as looking for a schematic or suggestion as to how to test the charging circuit ended up finding the repair. Thank you Plastcirelic.

Yes! My 1350AVR same problem, same repair, C1 22uf 50V. I actually ordered C1, C3 and C6 as well as the Viper chip, but, while waiting for them to arrive, checked ESR on the caps. C1 was bad, C3 & C6 good. Pulled C1 - it measured 460 nF instead of 22 uF. Substituted a 22 uF 160V (no 22uF 50V on hand).
Had to solder on wires (and heat shrink) and lay the cap on the board elsewhere as its diameter is bigger than a 50v same value cap. Works fine now. (If I had the other caps would have replaced them, too.) With thanks to those who posted the solution here! Ed

[pete_c]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Here have Cyberpower 1 1350, 1 1500 AVR UPS's. Now two new Cyberpower 1500's/

Made an RPi Nutserver for the rack and using PFSense for the telco area with an APC.

Using Nutserver with Home Assistant..

Noticed that the old Cyberpower UPS's output ~12-14VDC to the two batteries.

The new Cyberpower 1500's output ~ 27VDC to the two batteries.

I have ordered replacement caps and chip for the older 1500 and 1350 UPS.

Both the 1500 and 1350 have new batteries.

Will document here with pictures on my endeavor.

Here is what Nutserver shows.





Purchased new batteries for the 1350 a couple of months ago and 1500 last week.

Discharged the 1500 to 10% and recharged it. Took 5 days to charge to 100%

[PhracturedBlue]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Does anyone know the part number for the 4 power FETs (the ones attached 2 to each rail/heatsink)? I loaded my CP1350AVR up to ~60% load (800W) and the 2 on the neutral line exploded and one of the ones on the hot line has scorch marks. They no longer have any readable identifiers I don't see any other damage to the unit, so I'm thinking about trying to replace them rather than trash the whole thing.

It turns out one of them are still readable. They are marked as 'CET CEP3205'. I'll try to replace them with some genuine IRF3205PBF and see how it goes

[PhracturedBlue]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Does anyone know the part number for the 4 power FETs (the ones attached 2 to each rail/heatsink)? I loaded my CP1350AVR up to ~60% load (800W) and the 2 on the neutral line exploded and one of the ones on the hot line has scorch marks. They no longer have any readable identifiers I don't see any other damage to the unit, so I'm thinking about trying to replace them rather than trash the whole thing.

[redwire]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

What commonly happens is an old gel-cell will short one cell due to corrosion, basically making a 10V battery. The UPS will then charge hard and overheat the SMPS.

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

If you have some room to move the capacitor a little way from the heat sink if not is there a way to put a very small cooling fan on the case of the device

[nblitz]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Just wanted to document that I repaird two CP1500AVRLCD by replacing C1 and C3 (and the VIPER22A) just like OP.

Both had brown-ish zone around the VIPER22A and only one had critically failed: battery would discharge very slowly when connected to the power outlet and almost instantly discharge when unplugged (so after a while plugged, the UPS would complain that the battery was dead). I first thought it was the battery, but I swapped it with the other UPS, and it worked fine in the other UPS. Also tested the output voltage and it looked OK.

It clearly looks like the VIPER22A can get very hot (up to 170C according to its specs) which might be the cause of failure of the surrounding caps over time (as the fan only works when the UPS is on battery, but the VIPER22A can hit 80-90C steadily from my laser thermometer measurements).

I ended up repairing one and preventively replacing caps in the second one, replacing C1 with https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...1-1-ND/7365024 and C3 with https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...6-1-ND/3129143 and the VIPER22A with new ones bought on ebay (digikey had no VIPER22A-E DIP-8 in stock).

Also added small heatsinks (cut from video card ramsinks with pliers, though some exist on digikey https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...819-ND/3511413).

When all was replugged, the failed UPS powered up in a strange bootloop and LCD would blink just like mentionned here https://blog.sherwinm.com/2017/08/05...power-1350avr/. Turns out it just needed to be connected to a battery with a small charge to power up correctly, and afterwards everything seems to be working fine so far for both units.

My Cyberpower CP1350AVRLCD would no longer charge the batteries past 50%, even after replacing them with fresh new ones. But then I found this forum. At first I replaced the ST VIPER22 since there was some brown burn marks around it, but that still didn't fix the problem. I then followed tehownt's advice by purchasing new capacitors for C1, C6 (Nichicon 33UF 200V) and C3 (Nichicon 22UF 50V) from digikey and replacing these 3 capacitors. The UPS is now working once again and able to recharge the batteries to 100% even under a load!

I added a small video card RAM heatsink to the newly soldered VIPER22 and also used a thermal gun to check where the hot spots are and it seems like the smaller C3 capacitor does reach 125 degrees F, while the C1 hits around 110, so it is possible this capacitor failed first.

A big thank you to everyone in this forum! I am so glad I found this forum!

[defiant_1]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

I just wanted to add that I had the same problem with my CyberPower 1350AVR and replacing C1 fixed it.

What started as looking for a schematic or suggestion as to how to test the charging circuit ended up finding the repair. Thank you Plastcirelic.

Add me as well. And I, too, want to thank Plastcirelic and everyone else who contributed to this thread. With your help, I was able to repair my 1285AVRLCD with inexpensive tools, a $1 replacement capacitor (thanks to Microcenter!), and some soldering skills I picked up in high school.

[RETUSNET]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

@BigRed12 and @crash-cyberdrive

Glad we, as a community, are able to figure things like this out. It helps everyone and that is what motivates me. Good luck and have fun.

plasticrelic

I just wanted to add that I had the same problem with my CyberPower 1350AVR and replacing C1 fixed it.

What started as looking for a schematic or suggestion as to how to test the charging circuit ended up finding the repair. Thank you Plastcirelic.

[Maxbumpo]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Figured it out, got the case open.

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=79263

[Maxbumpo]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Hi guys, I've got a CyberPower 1350VA UPS, model CP1350PFCLCD. I've got error code F03 (not charging the batteries) so I am trying to get this case open in order to see what's going on and try replacing the capacitors if I don't find any other damage.

How does this case open up?

Front and back panels are off, top panel is off, and so I think there are just the two halves of the main case that I need to separate. The top seam catches are all exposed and easy to get apart, but on the bottom seam, only one catch is visible on the back half, where the circuit boards and transformer live. There seem to be other catches on the battery compartment side but I cannot figure out how to release them. Any help?

[Behemot]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Suggest recapping that Smart-UPS too, they still (usually) use crap caps, nothing changed in the last decade.

[Paradise Studios]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

I solved my problem by purchasing an APC SMT1500RM2U from ebay and putting my new batteries into it. Working perfectly. I couldn't figure out why the other 2 units from Cyberpower weren't working. After replacing all 3 caps and Viper chip, plugging them into AC resulted in power to the surge protected side but no power at all to the battery side.

Even though I did not fix my problems I appreciate all of you for your help and information. Hopefully someone else can make use of the information presented here in the future. Thank you.

[Behemot]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

…

Nobody makes transformer soldering (pistol) irons in the US, really? All you need is one large enough (true 125 VA) and you can desolder almost everything without some crazy procedures like preheating and who knows what else.

[budm]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Post 22: "I took the batteries out and tested them with a meter and each battery by itself reads 6v and together they read 12v,"
It looks like the batteries are 6-Volt batteries, if that is true or not, I expect them to be 12V batteries each so the UPS will run on 24V for 1350VA UPS.

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

Is it safe to test the red and black cables going to the batteries with the unit plugged into AC? I don't like playing with my life so I thought I better ask as it doesn't have any current flowing without being plugged in. Thanks for your input.

Your voltage will very depending on how the batteries are wired if the batteries are wired in series then your output voltage could be from 25 to 27 volts

If they are wired in parallel then your voltage would 13 to 15 volts

Some battery chargers will not put voltage out unless there is battery voltage on the terminals so be aware of this

[Paradise Studios]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

When testing the battery, you need to put load on it, battery with no load can show normal Voltage. Get 12V car lamp, I.E. #1157, and hook it up to see if it will even light up the lamp.
What is the charging Voltage you are getting on the RED & Black cables that go to the batteries?

I tested the new batteries with a 12v DC fan attached, each read 5v to 6v, seems that having them in the first unit for a couple days almost killed them. Or they came from the store like this. I have one on the charger to see if it can be revived.

I tested the batteries from unit 2 and they read 12v to 13v, so seem to be fairly healthy despite being 7 years old. Obviously the batteries were not the problem for unit 2 as it did not switch power over to battery when the AC went out.

Is it safe to test the red and black cables going to the batteries with the unit plugged into AC? I don't like playing with my life so I thought I better ask as it doesn't have any current flowing without being plugged in. Thanks for your input.

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: CyberPower 1350AVR - Repair

I had to turn up my soldering iron to 450 instead of 350 in order to desolder the parts off the board because the solder did not want to melt. The solder wick did not want to suck up the solder either. Somehow I managed to break free a pad from the board for the Viper22. It didn't come off all the way and I managed to put it back but I knew it wouldn't work.

One problem could be that the soldering iron that you are using might not be hot enough I personally prefer to have my iron set 675* F ( or higher depending on how big the traces are and weather or not it is a double side board ) get on the soldering joints and get off them when the solder flows

When using soldering wick the trick is to use fresh solder on the solder joint and use 60/40 solder and not the no clean type ( I personally do like to use this type of solder ) you want to have your temperature setting high enough for it to melt the solder and for it to flow into the solder wick when I have watched YouTube video of people using solder wick some people recommend using flux on solder wick ( I personally have not tried this but I use a desoldering gun instead to do this type of work to me this works better )

One real important thing to keep in mind is not to use the tip with a lot of force and not to move the wick around to much this is what remove small traces off the board some time it just happens depending on how good the quality of board is to being with poor quality board it is more likely to happen if this is case do not use as much heat on the board

Or another thing that might help is if you have a temperature controlled hot air gun with a small tip but you have to use caution when doing this that you do not get a spot to hot and you do not have surface mount components near where you are trying to remove the solder from

You also have to use enough air flow to encourage the solder to flow to the wick

One other thing that helps is if you have a soldering iron tweezers they come in very handy when doing surface mount components but you have use a little bit caution using them as well and that is not to use a lot of force on the tweezers or you bent them out of shape they are not very expensive depending on what brand they are

You can fix a trace that has come off the board one of two ways one way to put the trace back on board and put more solder where it broke on both sides of the break the other way is to a small gauge wire to the lead of component to another part of the trace or to another component lead on the same circuit

I have used all of these items that I have been taking about

I hope this helps