I was browsing for a case today when I noticed that Lian Li carried a power supply: HPC-500. I was wondering what OEM made it and whether it has good caps or not. The back does not have an exhaust fan, but looking throught the pics, the PSU seems really well stuffed (i mean, look at the size of the huge heatsink!). So, does anybody have any information on the OEM and the quality? I'm really interested in this PSU.
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Re: Lian Li Power Supply
i think it is made by high power like the chieftecs.
http://www.highpowersupply.com/
its passive pfc though yawnLast edited by willawake; 02-10-2007, 04:11 AM. -
Re: Lian Li Power Supply
The Lian Li PSUs are built by Sirtec and can be considered better than most other PSUs that come bundled with cases. Lian Li is not bundeling these at this time...Are they?
I would buy a Silverstone Element 500W over this Sirtec.
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Re: Lian Li Power Supply
would the cooling work though? they're selling these bundled with Lian-Li cases really cheap at a local store here.Comment
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Re: Lian Li Power Supply
I'm not sure what you mean by, "would the cooling work though?"
Even without active PFC it is still a decent PSU but there are better 500W units in the $60~$80 range with aPFC, if you were buying this Sirtec outright.
If the deal is good for you, go for it.Comment
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Re: Lian Li Power Supply
Well, the back doesn't have an exhaust fan, so I was wondering if the caps would die.Comment
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Re: Lian Li Power Supply
Hey toasty! It has a 120mm fan blowing into the unit, it does not need an 80mm exhaust. Typically a PSU with an 80mm fan will have it speced at 40~55cfm @ 12V, with a 120mm fan as an intake the spec is about 70~85cfm. This is because the sinks must be reduced in height, which reduces area, inorder to fit the 120.
Most often PSUs that use a 120 are quieter than units that use an 80mm..Lower dBA.Comment
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Re: Lian Li Power Supply
lower dBA but higher cfm
I am yet to be disappointed with a 120mm fan psu. nice cold air and not much noise. turbulence is actually good for cooling and that is what they provide. most important though is to have a design which is not too toasty in the first place though. 2x80mm no i think i wont buy another one of those....
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Re: Lian Li Power Supply
nice... thanks for all the info! I'll be buying this one by the time you read this.Comment
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Re: Lian Li Power Supply
PC Power & Cooling downplays the 120mm fans. They use the reasoning of shortened heat sinks, and claim an 80mm rear exhaust is more efficient.
I would think an air flow analysis of the rear fan would show a definite pattern of eddies where air flow is low or non-existent. As noted above, the larger fan is more quiet, and the added turbulence blowing down on all the components probably eliminates hot spots.
I bought two more Sparkle units with 120mm fans for stock. Both will be recapped before going into service.Comment
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Re: Lian Li Power Supply
PC Power & Cooling recognizes that there is only so much room in a PSU. 120mm fan is fine if it leaves enough room for the other parts, but past about 400W (if it's a decent, honestly rated unit) it starts getting cramped inside, something has to give.
It's really a matter of construction budget. Does the chopper use old BJTs or mosfets? Does the rectification use fast diodes or schottkys, or even two or more parallel schottys. It makes a lot of difference in what heatsink they can get away with using, and if there isn't such a height limitation such that they can shift all parts over some, it makes more room for bigger caps and inductors.
Nothing is without tradeoffs but if you get a well designed PSU it can run fine with only a rear 80mm fan. How many PC Power & Cooling PSU do you hear about failing from overheating anyway?
Choosing a 120mm fan based model is generally the cheaper way to get a low noise unit, and that is good too.Last edited by 999999999; 02-14-2007, 10:08 PM.Comment
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Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
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I have wanting to do this project for quite sometime now and I finally found a switching power supply that will work on this desoldering gun station ZD-915 that the original switching power supply took a shit and just was not worth trying to fix it because this switching power is not quite big enough to handle the heater element and the vacuum pump
One note when I tested the switching power supply and the voltage control board I noticed that this desoldering gun heat up much faster than the original switching power supply which I was really surprised by to the point that I might buy... -
I have been working on this concept for quite some time now with limited success but recently I found a switching power supply that is setup for the voltage that this soldering station needs to operate at however it also needs part of the secondary circuit from the original switching power because you need several voltage rails
I once tried to get a ZD-915 desoldering station to work on a 18 volt battery power supply but unfortunately things did not go well but I did find a work around but I might try this idea again but going at a little differently more about this another time... -
The sub developed a constant popping every couple seconds from woofer and power LED flickering with nothing but wall AC connected. Connecting an audio cable didn't change anything. It doesn't play but a second or two of audio in between the pops.
Opened it up and discovered the power supply is making a faint clicking or ticking sound.
I measured the amp's output to the woofer and it pulses up to 50mv DC to be driver. The pulses coincide with the power supply ticking/clicking.
I measured the power supply output going to the amp board and it too has this pulsing. Voltage cycles... -
Hello Everybody,
Trying to repair a power supply from a Russound CA4 Multizone Controller (picture attached)
Russound no longer supports it but were kind enough to provide a schematic of the power supply (pdf attached).
The outputs marked 12v and 20v are all measuring only 1v.
The board is clicking, which I think means it is in something called hiccup mode when the flyback transformers switches because of an internal problem or something else on the board Overloading it.
The capacitors physically look clean (no bludgesor leaks) and...
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