Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • quattro alex
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Originally posted by Behemot
    For diode open means shorted. Good diode is closed from one side (unless it's zener), allowing current to pass only in one direction And even in such condition there is voltage drop. Open diode has the P-N barrier broken so it behaves like conductor.

    But not always it just opens - sometimes it burns so hard it interrupts the path internally. Usually LEDs die this way.
    Replacing the diode at D5 was all it took in the end to get this up and running. Thank you to everyone's input in getting this up and running.

    Next up I have a Corsair 520w that keeps cutting out on the psu tester, and I have a Goodmans Tv with a burnt connector to the backlight lamps.

    Leave a comment:


  • Behemot
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    For diode open means shorted. Good diode is closed from one side (unless it's zener), allowing current to pass only in one direction And even in such condition there is voltage drop. Open diode has the P-N barrier broken so it behaves like conductor.

    But not always it just opens - sometimes it burns so hard it interrupts the path internally. Usually LEDs die this way.
    Last edited by Behemot; 11-10-2013, 07:49 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • quattro alex
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Originally posted by domas
    +1 on Behemots post.

    Switchers = primary transistors on primary heatsink (HV or hot side )

    I don't see the diode you are talking about as i am in rush right now, but desolder it and check it again for accurate reading. I would just replace it with similar value, from, lets say, another scrap SMPS. But please do check components around to make sure it doesn't destroy same components again after powering up.


    //unrelated:
    okay so i was right )
    i use nokian hkpl R for winter driving ) does the job.
    Thanks for the heads up on the "switchers" I'll take that heat sink out and test them on the DCA55.

    Originally posted by Behemot
    Oh, I looked again and find the diode. So it has been already removed and tested out-of-circuit it seems? Than it's definitelly bad if it reads open.
    Yes, I've got it out of circuit to be sure, but it reads shorted rather than open. Thanks for checking

    Leave a comment:


  • Behemot
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Oh, I looked again and find the diode. So it has been already removed and tested out-of-circuit it seems? Than it's definitelly bad if it reads open.

    Leave a comment:


  • domas
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Originally posted by quattro alex
    I've just tested the diodes and found D5 (UF1007) to be shorted ( I get a reading in both directions). Should I replace with the same or go up a notch?

    Also can you confirm what you mean by switchers please?

    I managed to get around 330v at Q6 but not Q5 does this help at all?

    Yes I am very much a fan of AWD and I am on some of the car forums. But if you want to make the most of that system you need the right rubber... Dunlop wintersport 3D's when it gets cold enough
    +1 on Behemots post.

    Switchers = primary transistors on primary heatsink (HV or hot side )

    I don't see the diode you are talking about as i am in rush right now, but desolder it and check it again for accurate reading. I would just replace it with similar value, from, lets say, another scrap SMPS. But please do check components around to make sure it doesn't destroy same components again after powering up.


    //unrelated:
    okay so i was right )
    i use nokian hkpl R for winter driving ) does the job.

    Leave a comment:


  • Behemot
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    have a look if there is some small-value resistor nearby, sometimes there is and it makes the reading seem the diode is bad.

    Leave a comment:


  • quattro alex
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Originally posted by domas
    quattro, did you test passive components as I mentioned in answer #4? switchers?
    They can be tested onboard, typical failures will result in opens or shorts.

    I had identical issue with another p/s - the resistors were cooked to fuck. they changed their rating from 1ohm to something like 1Mohm There wasn't any clearly visible damage to them though. I am not familiar with octocouplers, never had problem with them, but I have swapped them with known good ones as a precaution As it didn't help, i've put the original one back


    //unrelated: is there any possibility that by any chance your forum name refers to quattro as and audi all wheel drive system and I have seen you somewhere else on the interwebs? Most likely car related forums. It rings some bell for me.
    I've just tested the diodes and found D5 (UF1007) to be shorted ( I get a reading in both directions). Should I replace with the same or go up a notch?

    Also can you confirm what you mean by switchers please?

    I managed to get around 330v at Q6 but not Q5 does this help at all?

    Yes I am very much a fan of AWD and I am on some of the car forums. But if you want to make the most of that system you need the right rubber... Dunlop wintersport 3D's when it gets cold enough
    Attached Files

    if you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site

    Leave a comment:


  • Escort Eagle
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Escort Eagle - I have checked the switching transistors on the peak DCA55, and they came out ok. Can you advise me on how many volts dc I should be seeing on pins 1&2 of the optocouplers, as when I tested it was only 0.02v dc.
    Is it 0.02V DC in both Off_State and On_state ? At On_State it should go upto 1.5V . That means your controller IC is not working properly .

    Leave a comment:


  • domas
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    quattro, did you test passive components as I mentioned in answer #4? switchers?
    They can be tested onboard, typical failures will result in opens or shorts.

    I had identical issue with another p/s - the resistors were cooked to fuck. they changed their rating from 1ohm to something like 1Mohm There wasn't any clearly visible damage to them though. I am not familiar with octocouplers, never had problem with them, but I have swapped them with known good ones as a precaution As it didn't help, i've put the original one back


    //unrelated: is there any possibility that by any chance your forum name refers to quattro as and audi all wheel drive system and I have seen you somewhere else on the interwebs? Most likely car related forums. It rings some bell for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • quattro alex
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Escort Eagle - I have checked the switching transistors on the peak DCA55, and they came out ok. Can you advise me on how many volts dc I should be seeing on pins 1&2 of the optocouplers, as when I tested it was only 0.02v dc.

    Leave a comment:


  • Escort Eagle
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    I think you have switching problem . check those switching transistors and Opt-couplers shown in the image . If the switching transistors and optocouplers are OK, then give a voltage check . Measure the voltage of Optocoupler Pin 1 & 2 at normal state (I mean without connecting "Green + Black" condition) . Now connect "Green + Black" and measure the voltage of optocouplers pin 1 & 2 again . This time optocoupler's pin voltage will go higher than the voltage was at normal state . If it happens like that, then your controller section is working properly otherwise not .

    If the secondary side is OK, then you have the problem in the Primary section and you have to search in the primary side .

    I hope it will help you find out the problem side ...........
    Attached Files

    if you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site

    Leave a comment:


  • Behemot
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    It'll draw 95000000… by than

    Leave a comment:


  • kaboom
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Originally posted by kc8adu
    belongs in the hall of shame.
    950w my ass!
    Now, now...

    That rating is correct. It'll draw 950 when the PFC inductor shorts and fuse is bypassed...

    Leave a comment:


  • quattro alex
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Originally posted by Pentium4
    This looks like HEC, or a HEC knock-off. May be the rectifiers like behemot suggested. When you try to power it on do the fans twitch for a second?

    And define "meaty" graphics card
    No twitching can be seen on the fans, and when I hooked up the multimeter's I am only seeing up to 100mv. I am going to take a closer look at those rectifiers.

    The guy didn't mention the spec of the card, and now he's away for a bit, but I'll try and find out.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pentium4
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    This looks like HEC, or a HEC knock-off. May be the rectifiers like behemot suggested. When you try to power it on do the fans twitch for a second?

    And define "meaty" graphics card

    Leave a comment:


  • quattro alex
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Originally posted by retiredcaps
    Peak min/max on something like a Fluke 87V helps find the overload.

    I have an, unsolved problem, ATX power supply and all rails (5 and 12V) grossly overshoot the specified voltages. "Normal" min/max was not fast enough to catch the problem. I had to use peak min/max and two multimeters to see this.

    As a result, the supervisor IC shuts down the secondary voltage, but I have yet to find the culprit.
    I've got a couple of multimeters, but they're nowhere near the same league as a fluke. However, I'll give this a go this evening.

    Originally posted by Behemot
    This. I'd check rectifiers as the first thing - if somebody believed that sticker and pushed it too far, rectifiers would probably be the first to blow.
    So I asked the guy how much he had connected and it was a lot.... 5 hard drives, x2 USB hubs, lots of case fans a decent processor, x2 DVD drives and a meaty graphics card. I believe he definitely maxed it out and was sold on the 950w rating,

    Leave a comment:


  • Behemot
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Originally posted by LDSisHere
    I hope you do not think you can get 950W out of this supply, you would be lucky if it could do half of that continuously.
    This. I'd check rectifiers as the first thing - if somebody believed that sticker and pushed it too far, rectifiers would probably be the first to blow.

    Leave a comment:


  • senz_90
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Originally posted by LDSisHere
    I hope you do not think you can get 950W out of this supply, you would be lucky if it could do half of that continuously.
    Originally posted by kc8adu
    belongs in the hall of shame.
    950w my ass!
    LOL. this thread interest me because that 950W statement.

    Leave a comment:


  • retiredcaps
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    Originally posted by LDSisHere
    When you attempt to turn on this supply, do you get any voltage out of the 3.3, 5 or 12 volt rails for even a fraction of a second?
    Peak min/max on something like a Fluke 87V helps find the overload.

    I have an, unsolved problem, ATX power supply and all rails (5 and 12V) grossly overshoot the specified voltages. "Normal" min/max was not fast enough to catch the problem. I had to use peak min/max and two multimeters to see this.

    As a result, the supervisor IC shuts down the secondary voltage, but I have yet to find the culprit.
    Last edited by retiredcaps; 10-20-2013, 11:53 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • kc8adu
    replied
    Re: Artic Power 950w - Not 100%

    belongs in the hall of shame.
    950w my ass!

    Leave a comment:

Related Topics

Collapse

  • Tynan Dill
    Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?
    by Tynan Dill
    I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.

    Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.

    I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.

    The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.

    With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.

    Assuming...
    11-22-2024, 01:46 PM
  • PantherDave
    Microsoft Surface Pro (5th gen) model 1796 - no power
    by PantherDave
    Hi all!

    I'm trying to troubleshoot a Microsoft Surface Pro (5th gen) model 1796 that won't power on. Motherboard model is M1007506-015. My priority is retrieving data, but the SSD is integrated so it looks like if I can't repair it it'll need to go to a data recovery company. I've done a little basic board repair before, but nothing this advanced until now. So please forgive my ignorance in advance. 😅

    I found the boardview for this laptop in the forums here, and am able to open it on my PC with FlexBV.
    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...-hardware-devi...
    05-29-2024, 02:01 PM
  • GLISIT
    Asus Probook P5440UF-XB74 power issue
    by GLISIT
    Hi all,

    TL;DR - this laptop is driving me nuts with the oddball power-related behaviors. Appreciate any insight you can provide!


    I'm experiencing a power issue on an Asus Probook P5440UF-XB74. Although I've worked with electronics and computers for decades, this is my first attempt at getting into motherboard-level component troubleshooting. Any help the community can provide is greatly appreciated!

    A few weeks ago I was using the laptop (on battery power) for a Zoom meeting. The battery was running very low (long meeting) but I wasn't worried about...
    01-16-2025, 02:29 PM
  • sam_sam_sam
    Desoldering gun station modified to use a 18 volt @ 20 amp switching power supply
    by sam_sam_sam
    I have wanting to do this project for quite sometime now and I finally found a switching power supply that will work on this desoldering gun station ZD-915 that the original switching power supply took a shit and just was not worth trying to fix it because this switching power is not quite big enough to handle the heater element and the vacuum pump

    One note when I tested the switching power supply and the voltage control board I noticed that this desoldering gun heat up much faster than the original switching power supply which I was really surprised by to the point that I might buy...
    03-31-2024, 02:12 PM
  • Document Archive
    HP Pavilion Power Pavilion Power 15-cb009nl Notebook 15 Specification for Upgrade or Repair
    by Document Archive
    This specification for the HP Pavilion Power Pavilion Power 15-cb009nl Notebook can be useful for upgrading or repairing a laptop that is not working. As a community we are working through our specifications to add valuable data like the Pavilion Power 15-cb009nl boardview and Pavilion Power 15-cb009nl schematic. Our users have donated over 1 million documents which are being added to the site. This page will be updated soon with additional information. Alternatively you can request additional help from our users directly on the relevant badcaps forum. Please note that we offer no warranties that...
    09-06-2024, 05:59 AM
  • Loading...
  • No more items.
Working...